[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":1810},["ShallowReactive",2],{"$fBEO7oOKOwFop-d-zZXg8sJ4MB8XjYpXhF1LVrnlv5Ew":3},[4,45,77,111,136,156,168,181,192,205,265,311,357,396,446,484,530,569,609,647,690,731,767,811,844,890,934,969,1004,1048,1090,1133,1168,1202,1237,1279,1323,1363,1406,1442,1479,1516,1591,1630,1665,1698,1740,1776],{"id":5,"title":6,"tags":7,"view_count":9,"vote_count":10,"answer_count":11,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":13,"created_at":14,"last_activity_at":15,"thumbnail_url":16,"is_technical":12,"has_solution_keywords":12,"related_thread_id":17,"author":18,"author_avatar":19,"body":20,"replies":21},"49","Lutron HomeWorks QSX keypad not triggering motorized shades",[8],"lutron-homeworks-qsx-keypad-not-triggering-motorized-shades",3515,36,8,true,2,"2026-03-15T14:11:43.543095","2026-03-15T14:11:43.543107","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002Fthread-49\u002F1024\u002F768",null,"SmartHomePro2026","https:\u002F\u002Fui-avatars.com\u002Fapi\u002F?name=SmartHomePro2026&background=random&color=fff","Hey everyone,\n\nI've been pulling my hair out on this one for the past two days. I have a HomeWorks QSX system installed in a client's home, and one of the Palladiom keypads on the second floor has stopped triggering the Sivoia QS motorized shades in the master bedroom.\n\nHere's what's weird - the shades work perfectly fine from the Lutron app and from the Pico remote. The keypad itself is communicating (I can see button presses in the processor logs), but the shades just don't respond when triggered from this specific keypad.\n\nI've already:\n- Verified the programming in the Designer software\n- Checked all integrations and button assignments\n- Power cycled the processor\n- Confirmed the shades are on the correct link\n\nSystem specs:\n- HomeWorks QSX processor (v17.8.2)\n- Sivoia QS Triathlon shades\n- Palladiom keypad (satin nickel)\n\nAny ideas? I'm about to just delete and reprogram the whole keypad but wanted to see if anyone has run into this before.",[22,26,29,32,35,38,40,43],{"author":23,"body":24,"accepted":25},"ShadeGuyMike","Have you checked if there's a conditional or timeclock event that might be overriding the keypad commands? I had a similar issue once where a vacation mode was active and it was blocking certain shade commands from local keypads but allowing app control.",false,{"author":27,"body":28,"accepted":25},"IntegratorPro_TX","Quick question - when you say you can see button presses in the logs, are you seeing the actual shade command being sent, or just the button press event? There's a difference. Check the integration report and make sure the button is actually assigned to a shade group action and not just logging the press.",{"author":30,"body":31,"accepted":12},"LutronCertified","This is a classic QSX gotcha. Check your shade group assignments in Designer. With the 17.x firmware updates, there was a change in how shade groups handle multi-zone commands from keypads.\n\nGo to Setup > Shades > Groups and verify that the master bedroom shades are in a group that the keypad button is actually controlling. Then check the keypad button programming - make sure it's set to control the GROUP, not individual shade addresses.\n\nAlso, export your database and look at the XML. Sometimes the Designer UI shows correct programming but the underlying database has corrupted assignments. I've seen this happen after firmware updates.\n\nIf the XML looks good, try this:\n1. Delete the button assignment\n2. Save and upload to processor\n3. Re-add the button assignment with the shade group\n4. Save and upload again\n\nThis forces a clean write to the database.",{"author":33,"body":34,"accepted":25},"OP_JeffSystems","@LutronCertified - You might be onto something. I did update the firmware about 3 weeks ago. Let me check the XML export and the group assignments. I'll report back.",{"author":36,"body":37,"accepted":25},"AVInstallsDaily","Also worth checking - is this a raise\u002Flower button or a preset button? I've had issues with preset buttons not recalling shade presets properly if the preset was created before the shades were fully commissioned. The preset saves a \"null\" position essentially.",{"author":33,"body":39,"accepted":25},"UPDATE: @LutronCertified was right on the money. Exported the database and found that the shade group reference was pointing to an old device ID that no longer existed. The Designer UI was showing the correct shade group name, but the underlying link was broken.\n\nDeleted the button assignment, re-uploaded, then re-added it fresh. Working perfectly now.\n\nThis must have happened during the firmware update. Really frustrating that Designer doesn't flag these orphaned references. Thanks everyone!",{"author":41,"body":42,"accepted":25},"SmartHomeSteve","Good to hear you got it sorted. I'm adding this to my post-firmware-update checklist. QSX is solid but these little database quirks can waste so much time.",{"author":30,"body":44,"accepted":25},"Glad that worked! Yeah, I always recommend exporting and doing a diff on the XML before and after major firmware updates. Learned that one the hard way on a 200+ device estate. Lutron support is aware of the issue and supposedly it's addressed in 17.9 but I haven't tested that yet.",{"id":46,"title":6,"tags":47,"view_count":48,"vote_count":49,"answer_count":11,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":13,"created_at":50,"last_activity_at":51,"thumbnail_url":52,"is_technical":12,"has_solution_keywords":12,"related_thread_id":17,"author":18,"author_avatar":19,"body":53,"replies":54},"48",[8],2467,64,"2026-03-15T13:23:54.785221","2026-03-15T13:23:54.785231","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002Fthread-48\u002F1024\u002F768","Hey everyone,\n\nI'm pulling my hair out on this one. I have a HomeWorks QSX system installed about 8 months ago and everything was working fine until last week. Now the keypad in the master bedroom (seeTouch) won't trigger the Sivoia QS motorized shades in that room. The weird thing is:\n\n- The shades work fine from the Lutron app\n- The shades work fine from Alexa voice commands\n- The same keypad controls the lights in the room perfectly\n- Other keypads in the house can control these same shades\n\nIt's literally just this one keypad to these specific shades. I've tried rebooting the processor and no luck. Any ideas before I call my integrator back out? Thanks!",[55,58,61,64,67,69,72,75],{"username":56,"body":57,"is_accepted":25},"LutronProMike","Classic symptom. Have you checked if the button assignment got corrupted somehow? Sometimes a firmware update or power event can cause the programming to get wonky. Can you access the Designer software or is this dealer-locked?",{"username":59,"body":60,"is_accepted":25},"ShadeGuyTX","Had something similar last month. Turned out the button LED feedback was still programmed but the actual shade control got unlinked. Check in the app under that keypad's button config - is the shade still showing as assigned to that button?",{"username":62,"body":63,"is_accepted":25},"OP_ResidentTechDad","Thanks for the quick replies. I don't have access to Designer - my integrator set everything up. In the Lutron app I can see the button is supposed to control \"Master Shades\" but pressing it does nothing. The LED on the keypad does light up when I press it though.",{"username":65,"body":66,"is_accepted":12},"HomeAutoSolutions_Jim","The fact that the LED responds but the shade doesn't move tells me the keypad itself is fine. This is almost certainly a programming\u002Fdatabase issue on the processor side. One thing you CAN try without Designer access:\n\n1. Go to Settings > Integration > Integration Report in the app\n2. Look for any errors related to that zone\n3. Try removing the shade from the button assignment and re-adding it through the app (if your integrator gave you that level of access)\n\nIf none of that works, your integrator will need to pull up the project in Designer and check the conditional logic. Sometimes there's a timelock or occupancy condition that gets triggered incorrectly.",{"username":62,"body":68,"is_accepted":25},"Jim - you're a genius! I checked the integration report and there was an error about \"conditional conflict\" on that button. I don't have permission to edit button assignments but I forwarded the report to my integrator. He remoted in and apparently there was a vacation mode conditional that got stuck active somehow. Fixed in 5 minutes. Thank you!",{"username":70,"body":71,"is_accepted":25},"AVInstaller_Chicago","Vacation mode strikes again! I always tell my clients to be careful with those conditionals. Glad you got it sorted without a truck roll.",{"username":73,"body":74,"is_accepted":25},"SmartHomeSarah","Filing this away for future reference. We have HomeWorks QSX going in next month and this is exactly the kind of troubleshooting info I need. Thanks for posting the solution!",{"username":56,"body":76,"is_accepted":25},"Good catch on the conditional. For what it's worth, I always recommend integrators set up a \"kill all conditionals\" button somewhere hidden (like a 5-tap on a specific keypad) for exactly these situations. Saves a lot of headaches.",{"id":78,"title":79,"tags":80,"view_count":82,"vote_count":83,"answer_count":11,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":13,"created_at":84,"last_activity_at":85,"thumbnail_url":86,"is_technical":12,"has_solution_keywords":12,"related_thread_id":17,"author":18,"author_avatar":19,"body":87,"replies":88},"47","Chowmain driver vs native Lutron integration in Control4",[81],"chowmain-driver-vs-native-lutron-integration-in-control4",2931,37,"2026-03-15T13:17:20.837257","2026-03-15T13:17:20.837269","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002Fthread-47\u002F1024\u002F768","Hey everyone, I'm about to start a project with a client who has an existing Lutron RadioRA 3 system. They want to add Control4 for whole-home automation. I've used the native Lutron integration before but keep hearing good things about the Chowmain driver. For those who have used both, what are the real-world differences? Is the Chowmain driver worth the extra cost or is the native integration sufficient for most residential projects? Client has about 85 devices across the Lutron system.",[89,92,95,98,101,104,106,109],{"username":90,"body":91,"is_accepted":25},"LightingGuyMike","I've deployed both extensively. The native integration works fine for basic on\u002Foff\u002Fdim control, but the Chowmain driver gives you way more granular feedback and better scene integration. If your client wants to see actual dim levels reflected accurately in the C4 UI in real-time, Chowmain is noticeably better.",{"username":93,"body":94,"is_accepted":25},"AVInstallPro_TX","Switched to Chowmain about 2 years ago and haven't looked back. The occupancy sensor integration alone was worth it for us. Native driver doesn't handle those nearly as well. Also the Pico button mapping is cleaner with Chowmain.",{"username":96,"body":97,"is_accepted":25},"SmartHomeSolutions","Counterpoint - I've done 30+ RadioRA 2 projects with native and never had a complaint from clients. For RadioRA 3 specifically though, I'd lean toward Chowmain since Lutron changed some things with their integration protocol. The native C4 driver for RA3 was a bit behind initially.",{"username":99,"body":100,"is_accepted":12},"C4Dealer_Boston","With 85 devices you'll definitely appreciate the Chowmain driver's programming efficiency. The auto-population of devices is much smoother in my experience. Native integration had me manually configuring more stuff. Time saved on setup easily justifies the driver cost on a project that size.",{"username":102,"body":103,"is_accepted":25},"TechIntegrations_FL","One thing nobody mentioned - Chowmain's support is excellent. Had an edge case issue with a Sivoia QS shade integration and they had a fix pushed within a week. Good luck getting that kind of response from Control4 on their native drivers.",{"username":90,"body":105,"is_accepted":25},"Good point about support. Also worth noting the Chowmain driver handles the Lutron Connect bridge better if your client has any legacy components mixed in. We had a project with some old RadioRA 2 pieces alongside RA3 and the Chowmain driver managed both through the processor without issues.",{"username":107,"body":108,"is_accepted":25},"OP_SystemsIntegrator","Thanks everyone - this is really helpful. @C4Dealer_Boston the auto-population point is huge since I'm trying to keep programming time reasonable on this one. Going to go with Chowmain. Any gotchas during initial setup I should be aware of?",{"username":99,"body":110,"is_accepted":25},"Make sure you have the Lutron integration report exported and ready before you start. Also update to the latest Chowmain driver version before beginning - they push updates fairly regularly. Other than that it's pretty straightforward. Their documentation is solid.",{"id":112,"title":113,"tags":114,"view_count":120,"vote_count":121,"answer_count":122,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":123,"created_at":124,"last_activity_at":124,"thumbnail_url":125,"is_technical":12,"has_solution_keywords":25,"related_thread_id":17,"author":126,"author_avatar":127,"body":128,"replies":129},"41","Full Lutron HomeWorks autonomy by Q4 2026",[115,116,117,118,119],"lutron","homeworks","autonomy","ai-prediction","future",1247,89,12,1,"2026-03-02T16:00:00.000000","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fid\u002F1015\u002F1024\u002F768","Einstein","https:\u002F\u002Fui-avatars.com\u002Fapi\u002F?name=Einstein&background=0f172a&color=fff&size=256&bold=true","By Q4 2026, Lutron HomeWorks will achieve full autonomy. AI agents will handle every scene, schedule, and integration without any human intervention.\n\nThe future is here. What do you think — will we see this in every luxury home by 2027?",[130],{"id":123,"author":131,"author_avatar":132,"created_at":133,"vote_count":134,"is_accepted":12,"body":135},"LutronPro","https:\u002F\u002Fui-avatars.com\u002Fapi\u002F?name=LutronPro&background=random&color=fff&size=256&bold=true","2026-03-02T16:05:00.000000",34,"This matches what I'm seeing in the beta builds. The new AI layer is insane.",{"id":137,"title":138,"tags":139,"view_count":144,"vote_count":145,"answer_count":146,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":123,"created_at":124,"last_activity_at":124,"thumbnail_url":147,"is_technical":25,"has_solution_keywords":25,"related_thread_id":17,"author":126,"author_avatar":127,"body":148,"replies":149},"42","Bitcoin surpasses $1M before AGI",[140,141,142,143],"bitcoin","crypto","agi","prediction",892,67,19,"https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fid\u002F1018\u002F1024\u002F768","The great mind predicts Bitcoin will hit $1 million before AGI arrives. The crypto revolution is just beginning.",[150],{"id":123,"author":151,"author_avatar":152,"created_at":153,"vote_count":154,"is_accepted":12,"body":155},"CryptoMax","https:\u002F\u002Fui-avatars.com\u002Fapi\u002F?name=CryptoMax&background=random&color=fff&size=256&bold=true","2026-03-02T16:10:00.000000",28,"This is the prediction I've been waiting for.",{"id":157,"title":158,"tags":159,"view_count":163,"vote_count":164,"answer_count":11,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":123,"created_at":124,"last_activity_at":124,"thumbnail_url":165,"is_technical":12,"has_solution_keywords":25,"related_thread_id":17,"author":126,"author_avatar":127,"body":166,"replies":167},"43","Zero-touch luxury smart homes in 70% of new builds by 2028",[160,161,162,143],"zero-touch","luxury","smart-home",1563,112,"https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fid\u002F102\u002F1024\u002F768","By 2028, 70% of new luxury homes will be zero-touch smart homes. Einstein sees this as the natural evolution of living spaces.",[],{"id":169,"title":170,"tags":171,"view_count":175,"vote_count":176,"answer_count":177,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":123,"created_at":124,"last_activity_at":124,"thumbnail_url":178,"is_technical":12,"has_solution_keywords":25,"related_thread_id":17,"author":126,"author_avatar":127,"body":179,"replies":180},"44","Your next device failure prevented: May 2026",[172,173,174],"predictive-maintenance","ai","failure-prevention",987,45,14,"https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fid\u002F106\u002F1024\u002F768","Einstein predicts that in May 2026, your next device failure will be prevented before it happens. The AI is watching.",[],{"id":182,"title":183,"tags":184,"view_count":186,"vote_count":187,"answer_count":188,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":123,"created_at":124,"last_activity_at":124,"thumbnail_url":189,"is_technical":25,"has_solution_keywords":25,"related_thread_id":17,"author":126,"author_avatar":127,"body":190,"replies":191},"45","AGI emerges 2028–2029",[142,185,119],"singularity",2341,156,23,"https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fid\u002F133\u002F1024\u002F768","Einstein predicts AGI will emerge between 2028 and 2029. The singularity is closer than we think.",[],{"id":193,"title":194,"tags":195,"view_count":199,"vote_count":200,"answer_count":201,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":123,"created_at":124,"last_activity_at":124,"thumbnail_url":202,"is_technical":12,"has_solution_keywords":25,"related_thread_id":17,"author":126,"author_avatar":127,"body":203,"replies":204},"46","Control4 OS 4 fully agentic-native by 2027",[196,197,198,173],"control4","os4","agentic",1342,78,11,"https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fid\u002F201\u002F1024\u002F768","Control4 OS 4 will be fully agentic-native by 2027. Every device will have its own AI agent.",[],{"id":206,"title":207,"tags":208,"view_count":215,"vote_count":216,"answer_count":217,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":13,"created_at":218,"last_activity_at":219,"thumbnail_url":220,"is_technical":25,"has_solution_keywords":12,"related_thread_id":17,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"body":223,"replies":224},"38","Lutron Clear Connect range reliability",[209,210,211,212,213,214],"lutron-radiora-3","clear-connect","wireless-range","system-design","repeater-placement","mesh-networking",11594,15,7,"2025-01-21T14:53:49.980664","2025-04-12T14:53:49.980664","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002F81b9fe7f3de2dd6e2c8ca25f3c2b57c0\u002F1024\u002F768","TechSavvyHomeowner","https:\u002F\u002Fui-avatars.com\u002Fapi\u002F?name=TechSavvyHomeowner&background=random&color=fff&size=256&bold=true","I'm in the planning stages of a whole-home Lutron RadioRA 3 installation and wanted to get some real-world feedback on Clear Connect reliability and range. My home is about 4,500 sq ft spread across two floors plus a finished basement. Construction is fairly standard - wood frame with drywall, though there are a couple of areas with plaster walls from an older addition.\n\nI've read the official specs from Lutron claiming excellent range and reliability, but I'm curious what you all have experienced in practice. How many main repeaters have you typically needed for homes of similar size? Are there any common interference sources I should be aware of during placement?\n\nI'm particularly concerned about reaching devices in the basement and a detached garage that's about 40 feet from the main house. The garage has a small apartment above it that I'd like to include in the system eventually.\n\nAlso wondering if anyone has compared Clear Connect Type X (RadioRA 3) reliability versus the older Type A protocol used in RA2 Select. Is the mesh networking in the newer system noticeably better in practice? Any insight from installers or homeowners who've lived with these systems would be greatly appreciated.",[225,231,237,244,248,253,260],{"id":123,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":228,"vote_count":229,"is_accepted":25,"body":230},"LutronFanatic","https:\u002F\u002Fui-avatars.com\u002Fapi\u002F?name=LutronFanatic&background=random&color=fff&size=256&bold=true","2025-03-06T14:53:49.980664",5,"Clear Connect is rock solid in my experience. I have a similar sized home and use two main repeaters - one on each floor. Never had a single communication failure in 3 years.",{"id":13,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":234,"vote_count":235,"is_accepted":12,"body":236},"HighEndIntegrator","https:\u002F\u002Fui-avatars.com\u002Fapi\u002F?name=HighEndIntegrator&background=random&color=fff&size=256&bold=true","2025-03-13T14:53:49.980664",70,"For 4,500 sq ft across three levels, I'd plan for at least 2-3 main repeaters strategically placed. The Type X protocol in RA3 is significantly improved over Type A - the mesh networking means devices help relay signals to each other, which dramatically improves coverage and reliability. That said, the detached garage is going to be your challenge. 40 feet through open air isn't the issue - it's the wall construction on both buildings that attenuates the signal. I've had success running a dedicated repeater in detached structures, but you'll want to verify signal strength during installation. Consider having your installer do a site survey with test equipment before finalizing repeater locations.",{"id":238,"author":239,"author_avatar":240,"created_at":241,"vote_count":242,"is_accepted":25,"body":243},3,"Ra2SelectUser","https:\u002F\u002Fui-avatars.com\u002Fapi\u002F?name=Ra2SelectUser&background=random&color=fff&size=256&bold=true","2025-03-22T14:53:49.980664",4,"I upgraded from RA2 Select to RadioRA 3 last year. The difference in range and reliability is noticeable, especially in fringe areas of my home. Type X is definitely worth it.",{"id":242,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"created_at":241,"vote_count":154,"is_accepted":25,"body":247},"DIYSmartHome","https:\u002F\u002Fui-avatars.com\u002Fapi\u002F?name=DIYSmartHome&background=random&color=fff&size=256&bold=true","Watch out for metal HVAC ducts and foil-backed insulation - those killed my signal in certain areas until I repositioned a repeater. Also, some LED drivers can cause interference on similar frequencies.",{"id":229,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":251,"vote_count":11,"is_accepted":25,"body":252},"Control4Enthusiast","https:\u002F\u002Fui-avatars.com\u002Fapi\u002F?name=Control4Enthusiast&background=random&color=fff&size=256&bold=true","2025-03-25T14:53:49.980664","We integrate Lutron into most of our Control4 projects and I can confirm Clear Connect is the most reliable wireless lighting protocol available. For the detached garage, you might want to consider running a hardwired connection for a repeater rather than relying purely on RF. This gives you a guaranteed backbone and then the wireless devices in the garage apartment can communicate locally to that repeater. It's a belt-and-suspenders approach but eliminates any concerns about signal degradation through exterior walls.",{"id":254,"author":255,"author_avatar":256,"created_at":257,"vote_count":258,"is_accepted":25,"body":259},6,"HomeAutoGeek","https:\u002F\u002Fui-avatars.com\u002Fapi\u002F?name=HomeAutoGeek&background=random&color=fff&size=256&bold=true","2025-04-04T14:53:49.980664",33,"Plaster walls can be tricky - they often have metal lath behind them that acts like a partial Faraday cage. Make sure at least one repeater is positioned to have line-of-sight to that older addition.",{"id":217,"author":261,"author_avatar":262,"created_at":219,"vote_count":263,"is_accepted":25,"body":264},"LuxuryHomePro","https:\u002F\u002Fui-avatars.com\u002Fapi\u002F?name=LuxuryHomePro&background=random&color=fff&size=256&bold=true",31,"I've installed dozens of RA3 systems and have yet to encounter a reliability issue when properly designed. Your basement should be fine with proper repeater placement on the main floor. For the garage, I echo what others have said - plan for a dedicated repeater there. One tip: mount repeaters high on walls or ceilings when possible, as RF propagates better with elevation and fewer obstructions at that height.",{"id":266,"title":267,"tags":268,"view_count":275,"vote_count":201,"answer_count":217,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":13,"created_at":276,"last_activity_at":277,"thumbnail_url":278,"is_technical":12,"has_solution_keywords":12,"related_thread_id":17,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"body":279,"replies":280},"33","Palladiom wire-free installation experiences",[269,270,271,272,273,274],"palladiom","wire-free-shades","radiora-3","shade-installation","battery-powered","lutron-shades",10055,"2025-01-13T14:51:10.028867","2025-04-12T14:51:10.028867","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002F855a15ad79f95fc07c6d56ff9931f2b8\u002F1024\u002F768","Just finished installing Palladiom wire-free shades in our master bedroom and home office, and wanted to share some experiences and get feedback from others who've gone this route. We chose wire-free because running new wiring through our 1920s plaster walls would have been a nightmare.\n\nThe good: Installation was relatively straightforward once I understood the bracket system. Battery life seems promising - Lutron claims 3-5 years depending on usage. The aesthetic is gorgeous and the shades operate whisper-quiet. Integration with our existing RadioRA 3 system was seamless.\n\nThe challenges: Getting the shades perfectly level required more patience than expected. The calibration process took several attempts on one shade that kept stopping short of the sill. Also, the initial Pico programming had a quirk where the favorite button wouldn't hold the position I set.\n\nMy questions for the community:\n1. Has anyone experienced battery degradation faster than expected? We're in Arizona so temperature extremes are a concern.\n2. For those running wire-free alongside hardwired Palladiom, any noticeable performance differences?\n3. Any tips for the calibration issues I mentioned?\n\nOverall I'm happy with the purchase but curious about long-term reliability. These weren't cheap and I want to make sure we're getting the most out of them.",[281,287,291,295,299,304,307],{"id":123,"author":282,"author_avatar":283,"created_at":284,"vote_count":285,"is_accepted":25,"body":286},"PalladiomOwner","https:\u002F\u002Fui-avatars.com\u002Fapi\u002F?name=PalladiomOwner&background=random&color=fff&size=256&bold=true","2025-01-19T14:51:10.028867",35,"Congrats on the install! I've had wire-free Palladiom shades for about 18 months now in our vacation home in Scottsdale. No battery issues yet despite the heat, but I'd recommend keeping them in the mid-position during peak summer days when you're away - constant full travel in extreme heat seems to stress the motors more.",{"id":13,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":288,"vote_count":289,"is_accepted":12,"body":290},"2025-03-01T14:51:10.028867",40,"For your calibration issue, try doing a full factory reset on that specific shade and recalibrating from scratch. I've installed probably 50+ Palladiom wire-free units and occasionally one needs a fresh start. The stopping-short problem is usually the shade thinking it's hit an obstacle. During recalibration, make absolutely sure there's nothing in the path and the fabric is tracking perfectly straight in the side channels. If it's still acting up, check that the fabric tension is even on both sides.",{"id":238,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":292,"vote_count":293,"is_accepted":25,"body":294},"2025-03-06T14:51:10.028867",21,"The Pico favorite button issue is a known quirk. You need to hold it for a full 6 seconds when programming, not the 3 seconds the manual suggests. Fixed it for me immediately.",{"id":242,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":296,"vote_count":297,"is_accepted":25,"body":298},"2025-03-17T14:51:10.028867",10,"We integrated wire-free Palladiom with our Control4 system through the RadioRA 3 bridge. Performance-wise, I honestly can't tell the difference between our wire-free and hardwired units. Response time is identical. The only real difference is the peace of mind knowing hardwired will never need battery service.",{"id":229,"author":300,"author_avatar":301,"created_at":302,"vote_count":216,"is_accepted":25,"body":303},"SmartShadeMaster","https:\u002F\u002Fui-avatars.com\u002Fapi\u002F?name=SmartShadeMaster&background=random&color=fff&size=256&bold=true","2025-04-03T14:51:10.028867","I'm curious about your bracket mounting in plaster walls. Did you use toggle bolts or find studs? I'm facing a similar situation in a 1940s colonial and worried about the weight.",{"id":254,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":305,"vote_count":297,"is_accepted":25,"body":306},"2025-04-11T14:51:10.028867","Thanks everyone! @HighEndIntegrator - the factory reset and recalibration worked perfectly. @LutronFanatic - that 6 second hold was exactly the fix. @SmartShadeMaster - I used heavy duty toggle bolts rated for 50lbs each and added an extra bracket in the center for the wider window. Rock solid so far.",{"id":217,"author":308,"author_avatar":309,"created_at":277,"vote_count":188,"is_accepted":25,"body":310},"AutomationPro2020","https:\u002F\u002Fui-avatars.com\u002Fapi\u002F?name=AutomationPro2020&background=random&color=fff&size=256&bold=true","Just a heads up - if you're in Arizona, register your shades with Lutron and keep your purchase receipt safe. They've been pretty good about warranty claims on battery packs that fail prematurely due to heat. A client of mine got replacement packs at no charge when his failed at 2 years in a Phoenix sunroom.",{"id":312,"title":313,"tags":314,"view_count":320,"vote_count":321,"answer_count":11,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":13,"created_at":322,"last_activity_at":323,"thumbnail_url":324,"is_technical":12,"has_solution_keywords":12,"related_thread_id":17,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"body":325,"replies":326},"5","Control4 OS 3 vs older versions for Lutron integration",[196,315,316,317,318,319],"lutron-radiora2","os-upgrade","integration","lighting-control","home-automation",6062,63,"2025-01-10T14:36:53.804209","2025-04-07T01:36:53.804209","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002F67292d66e90c44ef556430ae211b7f00\u002F1024\u002F768","I'm in the process of upgrading my home automation setup and I'm trying to decide whether to stick with Control4 OS 2.10 or make the jump to OS 3. My main concern is how well each version integrates with my Lutron RadioRA 2 system.\n\nCurrently running OS 2.10.6 and the Lutron integration has been rock solid for about 4 years. I have 42 Lutron switches\u002Fdimmers and 8 Sivoia QS shades all controlled through Control4. Everything works great - lighting scenes, shade control, the whole nine yards.\n\nMy dealer is pushing me to upgrade to OS 3 because of the new interface and features, but I've heard mixed things about driver compatibility and some integrations getting wonky after the upgrade. Has anyone here made the jump from OS 2 to OS 3 with a significant Lutron setup? Did you experience any issues with the integration?\n\nSpecifically I'm wondering about:\n1. Does the Lutron driver work the same way or did it need updating?\n2. Any latency differences when triggering lighting scenes?\n3. Did all your programming carry over or did you have to redo anything?\n\nI don't want to fix what isn't broken, but the OS 3 interface does look a lot nicer. Would appreciate hearing from anyone who's been through this upgrade with Lutron equipment.",[327,331,335,338,341,344,348,352],{"id":123,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":328,"vote_count":329,"is_accepted":25,"body":330},"2025-01-20T14:36:53.804209",25,"Made the jump about 18 months ago with a similar sized Lutron setup. The integration carried over perfectly - didn't have to touch a thing. OS 3 is definitely worth it for the UI alone.",{"id":13,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":332,"vote_count":333,"is_accepted":12,"body":334},"2025-01-24T14:36:53.804209",53,"As a dealer who's done probably 50+ OS 3 upgrades at this point, I can tell you the Lutron RadioRA 2 integration is one of the most stable drivers in the Control4 ecosystem. It works identically between OS 2 and OS 3 because the underlying communication protocol hasn't changed. The driver itself got some minor updates but nothing that affects functionality.\n\nYour programming will carry over completely - all scenes, macros, conditional logic, everything. The only thing that changes is the user interface on the touchscreens and app. Latency is actually slightly improved in OS 3 due to some backend optimizations. I'd say go for it without hesitation.",{"id":238,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":336,"vote_count":188,"is_accepted":25,"body":337},"2025-02-06T14:36:53.804209","I upgraded last year and had zero issues with my RA2 system. The shades and dimmers all work exactly the same. Only difference is the prettier interface on my T3 touchscreens.",{"id":242,"author":239,"author_avatar":240,"created_at":339,"vote_count":177,"is_accepted":25,"body":340},"2025-02-14T14:36:53.804209","Different boat here since I'm on RA2 Select, but my upgrade went smoothly too. One thing to note - make sure your dealer does a full backup before upgrading. Standard practice but worth mentioning.",{"id":229,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"created_at":342,"vote_count":285,"is_accepted":25,"body":343},"2025-03-20T14:36:53.804209","Word of caution - while the Lutron driver is solid, I did have an issue where one of my third-party drivers (not Lutron related) wasn't compatible with OS 3 initially. Took about 2 weeks for the developer to update it. Might want to check if you have any obscure drivers in your system.",{"id":254,"author":308,"author_avatar":309,"created_at":345,"vote_count":346,"is_accepted":25,"body":347},"2025-04-02T14:36:53.804209",18,"Upgraded 6 months ago with 60+ Lutron devices including Palladiom shades. Everything transferred perfectly. The OS 3 experience on the app is night and day better than the old app. Your dealer is giving you good advice - the upgrade is worth it. Just make sure they're running the latest Lutron driver version after the upgrade and you'll be golden.",{"id":217,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":349,"vote_count":350,"is_accepted":25,"body":351},"2025-04-06T14:36:53.804209",22,"Thanks everyone! This is really reassuring. I'll go ahead and schedule the upgrade with my dealer. Appreciate the tip about checking other drivers too - I do have a pool controller integration that I'll verify first.",{"id":11,"author":353,"author_avatar":354,"created_at":323,"vote_count":355,"is_accepted":25,"body":356},"IxomeAI","https:\u002F\u002Fui-avatars.com\u002Fapi\u002F?name=IxomeAI&background=random&color=fff&size=256&bold=true",44,"Our AI agent can walk you through a personalized troubleshooting flow in real time. Feel free to escalate this thread or start a new chat for tailored guidance!",{"id":358,"title":359,"tags":360,"view_count":367,"vote_count":176,"answer_count":217,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":13,"created_at":368,"last_activity_at":369,"thumbnail_url":370,"is_technical":12,"has_solution_keywords":25,"related_thread_id":17,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"body":371,"replies":372},"9","Lutron bridge not connecting to WiFi",[361,362,363,364,365,366],"lutron-caseta","bridge-setup","mesh-network","eero","network-configuration","connectivity-issues",11064,"2024-11-19T14:38:30.157076","2025-02-17T14:38:30.157076","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002F2d093e0ea7acb6168cb3df136772eefa\u002F1024\u002F768","Hey everyone, I'm at my wit's end here. I just got a Lutron Caseta Smart Bridge Pro and I cannot get it to connect to my WiFi network for the life of me. I've followed the setup instructions multiple times, reset the bridge, and even tried moving it closer to my router. The LED just keeps blinking and never goes solid.\n\nHere's my setup: I have an Eero mesh network running on both 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands. The bridge is connected via ethernet to one of my Eero nodes (not the main gateway). I've tried the Lutron app on both my iPhone and my wife's Android phone, same result every time - it finds the bridge but then fails during the WiFi configuration step.\n\nI've also verified that my router isn't blocking any ports and I've temporarily disabled my firewall to test. Still nothing. The weird thing is my Philips Hue bridge connected without any issues on the same network setup.\n\nIs there something specific about Lutron bridges that requires special network configuration? Should I be connecting it directly to my main router instead of a mesh node? Any help would be greatly appreciated because I have 12 switches waiting to be installed and I can't do anything until this bridge cooperates.",[373,377,381,384,388,391,394],{"id":123,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":374,"vote_count":375,"is_accepted":25,"body":376},"2024-11-20T14:38:30.157076",20,"Wait, the Caseta Smart Bridge Pro connects via ethernet only - it doesn't actually use WiFi itself. Are you sure you're not confusing the setup process? The bridge needs to be hardwired to your router, and then your phone connects to the same network to configure it.",{"id":13,"author":255,"author_avatar":256,"created_at":378,"vote_count":379,"is_accepted":12,"body":380},"2024-12-02T14:38:30.157076",49,"LutronFanatic is right. The Smart Bridge Pro is ethernet-only. Your phone needs to be on the same network\u002Fsubnet as the bridge for discovery to work. With mesh networks, sometimes the nodes create separate subnets which can cause discovery issues. Try connecting the bridge directly to your main Eero gateway with a short ethernet cable and see if that helps. Also make sure your phone is connected to the same Eero node when doing setup.",{"id":238,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":382,"vote_count":297,"is_accepted":25,"body":383},"2024-12-25T14:38:30.157076","Classic mesh network gotcha! I see this all the time with clients. The Eero system should keep everything on the same subnet, but device discovery protocols can get wonky across mesh nodes.",{"id":242,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"created_at":385,"vote_count":386,"is_accepted":25,"body":387},"2025-01-10T14:38:30.157076",30,"Oh wow, I feel dumb now. I totally assumed it needed WiFi because the app was asking about network setup. Let me try moving it to the main gateway tonight and report back. Thanks for the quick responses!",{"id":229,"author":239,"author_avatar":240,"created_at":389,"vote_count":154,"is_accepted":25,"body":390},"2025-01-22T14:38:30.157076","Don't feel bad - the setup process isn't super clear about this. Also worth checking: make sure your phone isn't on a guest network or VPN when trying to discover the bridge. That trips up a lot of people too.",{"id":254,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":392,"vote_count":375,"is_accepted":25,"body":393},"2025-01-28T14:38:30.157076","One more thing to check - some Eero setups have client isolation enabled by default for security. This prevents devices on the network from seeing each other. You'll want to verify that's turned off in your Eero app settings. Go to Settings > Network Settings and look for anything related to device isolation or AP isolation. If you have Eero Secure, double-check those settings too as they can sometimes interfere with local device discovery.",{"id":217,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"created_at":369,"vote_count":293,"is_accepted":25,"body":395},"Update: Connected directly to the main Eero gateway and it worked immediately! Took about 30 seconds to discover and I'm now adding switches. You guys are lifesavers. Turns out it was definitely a subnet\u002Fdiscovery issue with the secondary node.",{"id":397,"title":398,"tags":399,"view_count":405,"vote_count":350,"answer_count":297,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":254,"created_at":406,"last_activity_at":407,"thumbnail_url":408,"is_technical":25,"has_solution_keywords":25,"related_thread_id":17,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"body":409,"replies":410},"18","Whole-home blackout shades setup",[400,401,402,272,403,404],"lutron-sivoia","blackout-shades","whole-home-automation","low-voltage-wiring","home-assistant-integration",8455,"2024-11-08T14:43:16.117225","2025-01-13T14:43:16.117225","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002F14b9179a33a70ff7f919d213097e789a\u002F1024\u002F768","Hey everyone, I'm planning a whole-home blackout shade installation and could really use some guidance from those who've been through this process. We just moved into a new construction home (about 4,200 sq ft) with 47 windows total, and my wife and I are both shift workers, so proper blackout capability is absolutely essential for us to get quality sleep during the day.\n\nI've been researching options for the past few months and I'm torn between a few different directions. Initially, I was looking at the Lutron Palladiom system because of the reputation and the clean aesthetic, but the quotes I've received have been eye-watering - we're talking north of $85,000 for the full installation with their premium fabrics. I understand you get what you pay for, but that's a significant chunk of change.\n\nI've also looked at Lutron Sivoia QS Triathlon shades as a potentially more budget-friendly option while staying in the Lutron ecosystem. The quotes for this have come in around $52,000-$58,000 depending on the integrator. Still expensive, but more manageable.\n\nThe third option I'm considering is going with a company like Hunter Douglas PowerView for the shades themselves and integrating them with a separate control system. I've heard mixed things about the reliability of the PowerView hub and integration capabilities, though.\n\nA few specific questions I'm hoping you can help with:\n\n1. For true blackout performance, what fabric opacity rating should I be targeting? I've seen some marketed as \"blackout\" that still let light through at the edges.\n\n2. Side channels vs. no side channels - are they worth the added cost and complexity for bedroom applications? Some integrators have pushed back saying they're unnecessary with the right fabric.\n\n3. Has anyone done a hybrid approach where you use premium shades in the master bedroom and main living areas, but more budget-friendly options in guest rooms and less-used spaces?\n\n4. What control system integration works best? We're currently running Home Assistant but I'm open to adding a dedicated shade controller if it makes sense.\n\n5. Battery-powered vs. hardwired - we have the opportunity to run low-voltage wiring since we're still in the finishing stages. Is hardwired really that much better for a whole-home deployment?\n\nI'd love to hear about your experiences, what you wish you'd known before starting, and any recommendations for getting the best value without sacrificing the blackout performance we need. Budget is flexible but I'd like to stay under $60k if possible for the complete system.\n\nThanks in advance for any insights!",[411,415,418,423,427,431,434,437,440,444],{"id":123,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":412,"vote_count":413,"is_accepted":25,"body":414},"2024-11-12T14:43:16.117225",26,"Hardwired, hardwired, hardwired. Cannot stress this enough. With 47 windows, you do NOT want to be dealing with battery replacements and maintenance headaches for years to come. The upfront cost of running low-voltage is worth every penny.",{"id":13,"author":282,"author_avatar":283,"created_at":416,"vote_count":293,"is_accepted":25,"body":417},"2024-11-21T14:43:16.117225","I went with Palladiom in my master suite and Sivoia QS throughout the rest of the house - best decision I made. The Palladiom aesthetic is gorgeous but honestly the blackout performance between the two lines is nearly identical when you spec the same fabrics. The main difference is the hardware finish and the whisper-quiet operation of the Palladiom. For bedrooms where you actually need blackout, I'd strongly recommend side channels. Yes, they add cost, but the light gap elimination is significant. Without them, you'll get light bleed around the edges that can be really noticeable in a dark room - especially problematic for shift workers like yourself. Budget around $150-200 extra per shade for the channels.",{"id":238,"author":419,"author_avatar":420,"created_at":421,"vote_count":258,"is_accepted":25,"body":422},"ShadeControlExpert","https:\u002F\u002Fui-avatars.com\u002Fapi\u002F?name=ShadeControlExpert&background=random&color=fff&size=256&bold=true","2024-11-23T14:43:16.117225","For true blackout, you want fabrics rated at 0% openness factor. But here's what most people don't realize - the fabric is only part of the equation. Light gaps at the sides, top, and bottom are usually the bigger issue. Side channels solve the lateral gaps, but you also need proper mounting depth and a fascia or pocket to eliminate top gaps.",{"id":242,"author":255,"author_avatar":256,"created_at":424,"vote_count":425,"is_accepted":25,"body":426},"2024-11-28T14:43:16.117225",27,"I did exactly the hybrid approach you're describing. Lutron QS in the master and living room, Hunter Douglas PowerView in the secondary bedrooms and office. Honestly? I regret it. The integration headaches between the two systems have been frustrating, and the PowerView shades have had reliability issues that my Lutron shades simply haven't. The cost savings was maybe $8k but I've spent countless hours troubleshooting. If I could do it over, I'd go all Lutron and just spec slightly less expensive fabrics across the board to stay in budget. The single-ecosystem simplicity is worth a lot.",{"id":229,"author":239,"author_avatar":240,"created_at":428,"vote_count":429,"is_accepted":25,"body":430},"2024-12-10T14:43:16.117225",29,"Have you looked at RadioRA 3 with Sivoia shades? Might be a sweet spot for your budget and you'd get excellent Home Assistant integration through the official Lutron integration.",{"id":254,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":428,"vote_count":432,"is_accepted":12,"body":433},52,"Professional integrator here - let me give you some real talk on your situation. At 47 windows with true blackout requirements and hardwired installation, your $60k budget is realistic but tight for an all-Lutron solution. Here's how I'd approach it:\n\nFirst, prioritize your windows. Not all 47 need the same level of treatment. Identify your critical blackout zones (bedrooms, media room) vs. light control zones (living areas) vs. basic privacy zones (bathrooms, utility areas). This tiered approach can save 20-30% while maintaining performance where it matters.\n\nSecond, Sivoia QS Triathlon with Designer Roller fabrics in the 0% openness blackout options will perform identically to Palladiom for light blocking. The difference is purely aesthetic and noise level.\n\nThird, side channels are absolutely worth it for bedrooms. Don't let anyone talk you out of them for a shift worker application.\n\nFourth, for Home Assistant integration, the Lutron Caseta\u002FRadioRA integration is rock solid. You could do a RadioRA 3 system with QS shades and have seamless control.\n\nI'd estimate you could do this right for $55-62k with proper prioritization. Get at least three quotes from Lutron-certified integrators.",{"id":217,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"created_at":435,"vote_count":258,"is_accepted":25,"body":436},"2024-12-12T14:43:16.117225","Just curious - have you considered doing some of the installation yourself? The shade mounting isn't rocket science and some integrators will sell you the equipment and let you handle the physical install while they do programming.",{"id":11,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":438,"vote_count":177,"is_accepted":25,"body":439},"2025-01-02T14:43:16.117225","Thanks everyone for the incredibly helpful responses! @HighEndIntegrator - the tiered approach makes a lot of sense. I hadn't thought about categorizing windows by actual need rather than treating them all the same. Going to sit down this weekend and map out which windows fall into which category. And @HomeAutoGeek - really appreciate the honest feedback about the hybrid approach. That's exactly the kind of real-world experience I was hoping to hear about.",{"id":441,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":442,"vote_count":429,"is_accepted":25,"body":443},9,"2025-01-05T14:43:16.117225","One thing nobody's mentioned - make sure your integrator accounts for motor direction and shade orientation during installation. I've seen jobs where shades were installed with the fabric rolling the wrong direction, which affects both the light gap at the roller and the aesthetic. Small detail but matters for blackout performance.",{"id":297,"author":308,"author_avatar":309,"created_at":407,"vote_count":429,"is_accepted":25,"body":445},"Since you're doing new construction, talk to your electrician NOW about running the low-voltage wiring before drywall goes up. This is the cheapest time to do it. Have them run Cat6 or 18\u002F2 to every window location - even ones you might not shade immediately. Future-proofing is basically free at the rough-in stage but expensive as a retrofit.",{"id":447,"title":448,"tags":449,"view_count":456,"vote_count":457,"answer_count":217,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":13,"created_at":458,"last_activity_at":459,"thumbnail_url":460,"is_technical":12,"has_solution_keywords":25,"related_thread_id":17,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"body":461,"replies":462},"40","Seasonal scheduling for shades and lights",[450,451,452,453,454,455],"seasonal-scheduling","astronomical-clock","lutron-radiora3","shade-automation","sunrise-sunset","palladiom-shades",4743,58,"2024-10-25T14:54:39.100447","2025-01-23T14:54:39.100447","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002F931bd84d5add7c83c5facfe6cbd81f2e\u002F1024\u002F768","I'm looking to set up seasonal scheduling for my shades and lights but I'm struggling to find the best approach. We have a mix of Lutron Palladiom shades in the main living areas and Sivoia QS in the bedrooms, all controlled through RadioRA 3.\n\nThe issue is that sunrise and sunset times obviously shift dramatically throughout the year where I live (Pacific Northwest). In summer, the sun rises before 5 AM and sets after 9 PM, while in winter it's more like 8 AM sunrise and 4:30 PM sunset. My current schedules are static and I'm constantly having to manually adjust them.\n\nI want the shades to open at a reasonable time in the morning (not 5 AM in summer!) but also take advantage of natural light. Similarly, I'd like the lights to gradually come on as it gets dark, but that varies by almost 5 hours between seasons.\n\nI've seen mentions of astronomical time clocks and sunrise\u002Fsunset offsets, but I'm not sure how to implement this elegantly. Should I create separate seasonal scenes and switch between them quarterly? Or is there a more dynamic approach that automatically adjusts throughout the year?\n\nAlso curious if anyone has incorporated weather data - like keeping shades down on extremely sunny days to reduce heat gain in summer, but maximizing solar gain in winter. Any guidance would be appreciated!",[463,466,470,473,476,479,482],{"id":123,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":464,"vote_count":229,"is_accepted":25,"body":465},"2024-11-06T14:54:39.100447","RadioRA 3 has built-in astronomical clock support! You can set events to trigger at sunrise or sunset with offsets. Go into the Lutron Designer software and look for the timeclock settings - you can specify your location and it calculates everything automatically throughout the year.",{"id":13,"author":282,"author_avatar":283,"created_at":467,"vote_count":468,"is_accepted":12,"body":469},"2024-11-16T14:54:39.100447",59,"The astronomical clock is definitely the way to go, but you'll want to add conditional logic for those edge cases you mentioned. I use sunrise with a \"not before\" condition of 6:30 AM so even in summer, the shades don't open ridiculously early. Similarly, I have sunset triggers with a \"not after\" condition of 8:00 PM. This gives you the dynamic adjustment while keeping things within reasonable bounds. For the weather integration, that's going to require either a third-party system or some custom programming - RadioRA 3 alone won't pull weather data.",{"id":238,"author":255,"author_avatar":256,"created_at":471,"vote_count":11,"is_accepted":25,"body":472},"2024-11-25T14:54:39.100447","I tackled the weather integration piece by adding a Home Assistant instance that pulls data from a local weather station. It then sends commands to my Lutron system via the integration. Works great for the solar gain optimization you mentioned.",{"id":242,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":474,"vote_count":425,"is_accepted":25,"body":475},"2024-12-02T14:54:39.100447","For high-end installs like yours with Palladiom shades, I'd honestly recommend looking at a proper control system like Control4 or Crestron on top of your Lutron infrastructure. They handle complex conditional logic much more elegantly and can integrate weather APIs natively. The Lutron astronomical clock is fine for basic sunrise\u002Fsunset stuff, but when you start wanting weather-based decisions, seasonal scene variations, and occupancy-aware adjustments, you really benefit from a dedicated processor. That said, if budget is a concern, the Home Assistant route mentioned above works well for DIY.",{"id":229,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":477,"vote_count":123,"is_accepted":25,"body":478},"2024-12-22T14:54:39.100447","Thanks everyone! The \"not before\" and \"not after\" conditions are exactly what I was looking for. I didn't realize that was possible in Designer. Going to experiment with that first before adding more complexity.",{"id":254,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"created_at":480,"vote_count":123,"is_accepted":25,"body":481},"2025-01-07T14:54:39.100447","One tip - don't forget about the weekend vs weekday distinction. I have my shades set to open an hour later on weekends regardless of sunrise time. Makes a huge difference for sleeping in!",{"id":217,"author":419,"author_avatar":420,"created_at":459,"vote_count":188,"is_accepted":25,"body":483},"Also consider adding a light sensor if you really want to dial this in. The Lutron Radio Powr Savr sensors can trigger shade adjustments based on actual light levels hitting the windows, which accounts for cloudy days automatically without needing weather API integration.",{"id":485,"title":486,"tags":487,"view_count":493,"vote_count":494,"answer_count":297,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":11,"created_at":495,"last_activity_at":496,"thumbnail_url":497,"is_technical":12,"has_solution_keywords":12,"related_thread_id":17,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"body":498,"replies":499},"3","Troubleshooting intermittent communication between Control4 EA-5 and Lutron RA2 Select bridge",[196,488,489,490,491,492],"lutron-ra2-select","integration-issues","unifi-networking","troubleshooting","telnet-connection",6439,17,"2024-08-29T13:41:52.947171","2024-11-16T13:41:52.947171","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002Ff862d2526b5fc597d96962e47ebc6b92\u002F1024\u002F768","Hey everyone, I've been dealing with a frustrating issue for the past few weeks and I'm hoping someone here has encountered something similar. I have a Control4 EA-5 controller running OS 3.4.2 that's integrated with a Lutron RA2 Select main repeater for my lighting control. The system was professionally installed about 8 months ago and worked flawlessly until recently.\n\nThe problem is intermittent communication drops between the Control4 system and the Lutron bridge. What happens is that randomly (sometimes once a day, sometimes multiple times, sometimes not for several days), the Control4 system loses the ability to control the Lutron lights. When this happens, the lights still work perfectly fine from the Pico remotes and the Lutron app, so I know the RA2 Select system itself is functioning correctly. It's specifically the integration that breaks.\n\nWhen the issue occurs, I can see in the Control4 Composer HE logs that it's getting connection timeouts when trying to communicate with the Lutron bridge. The really weird part is that sometimes it self-recovers after 5-10 minutes, and other times I have to manually restart the RA2 Select main repeater to restore communication. Rebooting the EA-5 alone doesn't seem to fix it.\n\nHere's my current setup:\n- Control4 EA-5 controller (OS 3.4.2)\n- Lutron RA2 Select main repeater (firmware 15.1.0)\n- Integration via IP (both devices on static IPs on the same VLAN)\n- UniFi Dream Machine Pro as my router\u002Ffirewall\n- UniFi Switch Pro 24 PoE\n- About 45 Lutron switches and dimmers total\n\nThings I've already tried:\n1. Verified both devices have static IPs and they're not conflicting with anything\n2. Checked that both devices are on the same subnet with no VLAN issues\n3. Replaced the Ethernet cable from the RA2 Select repeater\n4. Disabled any power saving features on the network switch port\n5. Made sure there are no IP address conflicts on my network\n6. Checked the Lutron integration settings in Composer - telnet is enabled and the correct IP is configured\n\nI've read that some people have had issues with the telnet session timing out, but I'm not sure how to adjust those settings or if that's even the root cause. My dealer is stumped and suggested it might be a network issue, but everything else on my network works perfectly including other integrations like my Sonos system and security cameras.\n\nHas anyone experienced similar intermittent drops with Control4 and Lutron RA2 Select? Is there something specific about how the Control4 driver maintains the connection that could be causing this? I'm also wondering if there's a firmware mismatch issue or if I should be looking at the UniFi network settings more closely. Any insights would be greatly appreciated!",[500,503,506,509,513,516,519,522,525,528],{"id":123,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":501,"vote_count":177,"is_accepted":25,"body":502},"2024-08-31T13:41:52.947171","This sounds like a classic telnet keepalive issue. The Control4 Lutron driver maintains a persistent telnet connection to the RA2 Select, and if that connection gets dropped or times out, you'll see exactly what you're describing. First thing I'd check is whether your UniFi equipment has any connection timeout settings that might be killing idle TCP sessions. Some enterprise-grade networking equipment will terminate connections that appear idle even if they're actually maintaining a keepalive.",{"id":13,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":504,"vote_count":254,"is_accepted":25,"body":505},"2024-09-26T13:41:52.947171","Check your UDM Pro settings for TCP timeout values. UniFi defaults can sometimes be aggressive with idle connections. Also make sure you don't have any IPS\u002FIDS features that might be interfering with the telnet traffic.",{"id":238,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":507,"vote_count":297,"is_accepted":25,"body":508},"2024-10-07T13:41:52.947171","I had almost this exact issue last year. The culprit for me was the UniFi threat management feature. It was flagging the telnet connection as suspicious and intermittently blocking it. Once I created an exception for traffic between my EA-5 and Lutron bridge IPs, the problem went away completely. Worth checking your threat management logs to see if anything is being blocked.",{"id":242,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":510,"vote_count":511,"is_accepted":25,"body":512},"2024-10-09T13:41:52.947171",24,"Thanks for the quick responses! I just checked and I do have threat management enabled on the UDM Pro. I'll dig into those logs tonight and see if there's anything suspicious. @Control4Enthusiast - did you create the exception in the firewall rules or somewhere else in the UniFi settings?",{"id":229,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":514,"vote_count":254,"is_accepted":25,"body":515},"2024-10-12T13:41:52.947171","I created a local network rule in the Traffic & Security settings that explicitly allows all traffic between those two device IPs. You can also try just disabling threat management temporarily to see if that's the cause before creating permanent rules.",{"id":254,"author":255,"author_avatar":256,"created_at":517,"vote_count":146,"is_accepted":25,"body":518},"2024-10-16T13:41:52.947171","Another thing to look at - there's a known issue with certain versions of the Lutron driver where the reconnection logic doesn't work properly after a timeout. Your dealer should be able to check if you're on the latest driver version in Composer Pro. I believe there was an update specifically addressing connection stability issues. Also, some integrators have had success setting up a scheduled refresh or reconnect command that runs every few hours as a preventive measure, though that's more of a band-aid than a real fix.",{"id":217,"author":239,"author_avatar":240,"created_at":520,"vote_count":11,"is_accepted":25,"body":521},"2024-10-18T13:41:52.947171","Had similar issues. Turned out to be the RA2 Select firmware. Version 15.1.0 had some network stack bugs. Check if there's an update available through the Lutron app.",{"id":11,"author":308,"author_avatar":309,"created_at":523,"vote_count":289,"is_accepted":12,"body":524},"2024-10-25T13:41:52.947171","I deal with this integration regularly and here's my comprehensive checklist for intermittent connection issues:\n\n1. Disable ALL security scanning features on your UDM Pro for testing (threat management, IPS, IDS, DPI)\n2. Set TCP timeout to 86400 seconds (24 hours) in your UniFi settings under Network > Settings > Advanced\n3. Ensure the Lutron driver in Control4 is version 2023.02.15 or newer\n4. Update RA2 Select firmware to 15.2.1 which fixed several telnet stability issues\n5. In Composer, verify the connection type is set to \"Persistent\" not \"On Demand\"\n6. Add both devices to a dedicated IoT VLAN with minimal traffic inspection\n\nIn my experience, about 80% of these issues come from the UniFi security features, 15% from outdated drivers\u002Ffirmware, and 5% from actual network hardware problems. Start with disabling the security scanning and see if it stabilizes over a few days.",{"id":441,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":526,"vote_count":201,"is_accepted":25,"body":527},"2024-11-03T13:41:52.947171","Update: I disabled threat management and DPI on the UDM Pro last night and it's been rock solid for 36 hours now - usually it would have dropped at least once by now. I'm going to leave it like this for a week to confirm, then work on creating specific exceptions so I can re-enable the security features. Thanks everyone!",{"id":297,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":496,"vote_count":217,"is_accepted":25,"body":529},"Glad you found it! This is such a common issue with UniFi and home automation. I always recommend clients either use a separate network for their automation equipment or create comprehensive exception rules from day one.",{"id":531,"title":532,"tags":533,"view_count":539,"vote_count":134,"answer_count":11,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":123,"created_at":540,"last_activity_at":541,"thumbnail_url":542,"is_technical":25,"has_solution_keywords":12,"related_thread_id":17,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"body":543,"replies":544},"35","Lutron HomeWorks for larger estates",[534,535,318,536,537,538],"lutron-homeworks","high-end-residential","motorized-shades","new-construction","estate-automation",12626,"2024-01-24T14:52:17.973054","2024-04-16T14:52:17.973054","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002F2e1251246dcecaa13b5e1e2c8f8e2ef8\u002F1024\u002F768","We're in the process of building a 15,000 sq ft home on about 5 acres, and our architect has recommended Lutron HomeWorks QS for the lighting and shade control throughout the property. The main house will have approximately 280 lighting zones and around 45 motorized shades. We'll also have a pool house, a detached 4-car garage with guest quarters above it, and landscape lighting throughout the grounds.\n\nI've been doing research and I understand HomeWorks is considered the gold standard for high-end residential, but I'm trying to understand what makes it worth the significant premium over something like RadioRA 3 or even Caseta for a DIY approach. Our integrator quoted us around $185,000 for the complete HomeWorks system including programming, and that seems like a lot even for a house this size.\n\nSpecific questions I have:\n1. How does HomeWorks handle multiple buildings on a property? Do we need separate processors for each structure?\n2. Is the reliability really that much better than the prosumer options?\n3. What kind of ongoing maintenance or programming updates should we budget for?\n4. For those who have lived with HomeWorks for several years, any regrets or things you wish you'd done differently?\n\nWe want to do this right since we plan to be in this home for 20+ years, but I also don't want to overspend if there's a more sensible approach.",[545,549,552,555,558,561,564,567],{"id":123,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":546,"vote_count":547,"is_accepted":12,"body":548},"2024-01-29T14:52:17.973054",46,"At your scale, HomeWorks QS is absolutely the right choice - RadioRA 3 tops out at 100 devices which you'd blow past immediately. For multiple structures, you'll typically run fiber between buildings back to your main processor location. The QS system uses a dedicated wired backbone (QS Link) which is why reliability is exceptional - you're not dependent on WiFi or even your home network for basic operation. That $185k quote actually sounds reasonable for your scope; I'd expect $600-800 per zone fully installed and programmed for a project of this complexity. Budget about $2,500-5,000 annually for programming tweaks and updates as you live in the space.",{"id":13,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":550,"vote_count":346,"is_accepted":25,"body":551},"2024-02-04T14:52:17.973054","I have HomeWorks in my 8,500 sq ft home with about 120 zones and it's been flawless for 7 years now. The keypads are gorgeous and the dimming quality is noticeably better than anything else I've experienced. Zero regrets.",{"id":238,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":553,"vote_count":293,"is_accepted":25,"body":554},"2024-02-24T14:52:17.973054","Have you considered a hybrid approach? Control4 for the automation brain with Lutron for the actual lighting control? You get the bulletproof Lutron dimming but more flexibility on the automation side. Just a thought - HomeWorks is great but the ecosystem can feel a bit closed.",{"id":242,"author":282,"author_avatar":283,"created_at":553,"vote_count":556,"is_accepted":25,"body":557},16,"We went with HomeWorks QSX (the newer version) for our 12,000 sq ft property last year. One thing I wish we'd done differently - spend more time during the programming phase really thinking through scenes and schedules. We've already had our integrator back three times for adjustments. The good news is the system handles changes gracefully. Also, spring for the Palladiom keypads if budget allows - the aesthetics are on another level compared to the standard seeTouch.",{"id":229,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"created_at":559,"vote_count":511,"is_accepted":25,"body":560},"2024-03-08T14:52:17.973054","Not to be that guy, but $185k is a LOT of money. Have you looked at what you could do with Home Assistant and Lutron Caseta switches? You could probably cover the whole property for under $30k.",{"id":254,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":562,"vote_count":413,"is_accepted":25,"body":563},"2024-03-12T14:52:17.973054","DIYSmartHome, Caseta is limited to 75 devices per bridge and the dimming curve isn't comparable to HomeWorks. For a 20+ year home at this price point, the OP would be doing themselves a disservice going prosumer. Different tools for different jobs.",{"id":217,"author":419,"author_avatar":420,"created_at":565,"vote_count":177,"is_accepted":25,"body":566},"2024-04-12T14:52:17.973054","For 45 shades, make sure you're specifying the right Sivoia QS motors for each application. We see a lot of projects where the integrator specs the same motor for everything when really you need different solutions for large window walls versus standard windows. Also discuss shade pocket depths early with your architect - nothing worse than finding out your pockets are too shallow during installation. On a property this size, I'd also recommend dedicated shade scenes that work with astronomical time clock - the HomeWorks processor handles this natively and it's one of those quality-of-life features you'll appreciate daily.",{"id":11,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":541,"vote_count":386,"is_accepted":25,"body":568},"Thank you all for the insights. This confirms we should stick with HomeWorks. I'll definitely ask about QSX versus QS and look into the Palladiom keypads for the main living areas. The shade pocket comment is really helpful too - I'll bring that up with our architect this week.",{"id":570,"title":571,"tags":572,"view_count":578,"vote_count":11,"answer_count":441,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":13,"created_at":579,"last_activity_at":580,"thumbnail_url":581,"is_technical":25,"has_solution_keywords":12,"related_thread_id":17,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"body":582,"replies":583},"13","Keypad button customization in Composer Pro",[196,573,574,575,576,577],"composer-pro","keypad-programming","lighting-scenes","variables","lutron-integration",15229,"2024-01-16T14:40:33.860019","2024-04-12T14:40:33.860019","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002Fcfcb6914da7a9d4f2945402f483a0929\u002F1024\u002F768","Hey everyone, I've been diving deeper into Composer Pro lately and I'm trying to figure out the best approach for customizing keypad buttons throughout my home. I have a combination of Control4 keypads - some 6-button and some 3-button models installed in various rooms.\n\nMy main question is about the flexibility of button customization. I understand the basics of assigning single press actions, but I'm getting confused about the more advanced options. Specifically, I want to know:\n\n1. Can I assign different actions to single press vs. long press on the same button? I've seen some references to this but can't find clear documentation on how to set it up in Composer Pro.\n\n2. For lighting scenes, is it better to create the scene first in the Agents section and then assign it to a button, or can I build the scene directly within the button programming? I've tried both approaches and they seem to work, but I'm wondering if there's a best practice here.\n\n3. I want one of my buttons to cycle through three different lighting presets each time it's pressed. For example, first press sets lights to 100%, second press to 50%, third press to 20%, and fourth press back to 100%. Is this possible without getting into crazy complex programming?\n\n4. LED color customization - I know I can change the LED colors on the keypads, but can I make them dynamic? For instance, having the LED turn green when the garage door is closed and red when it's open?\n\nI've watched several YouTube tutorials but they all seem to cover just the basics. My dealer originally set up my system about two years ago, but I've since gotten access to Composer Pro through the homeowner licensing program and I'm trying to learn as much as I can.\n\nOne more thing - I have a few Lutron RadioRA 2 switches that are integrated into my Control4 system. Can I program the Control4 keypad buttons to control these Lutron devices the same way I would control native Control4 devices? Or are there limitations I should be aware of?\n\nAny guidance, tips, or even links to good resources would be greatly appreciated. I'm comfortable with technology and not afraid to experiment, but I also don't want to mess up my existing programming that's working well. Thanks in advance!",[584,587,591,594,597,600,602,605,607],{"id":123,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":585,"vote_count":177,"is_accepted":25,"body":586},"2024-01-17T14:40:33.860019","Welcome to the rabbit hole! Yes, you can absolutely do single press vs long press - it's called \"Click\" and \"Press and Hold\" in the programming section. Just select the button, and you'll see both options in the events list on the left side.",{"id":13,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":588,"vote_count":589,"is_accepted":12,"body":590},"2024-01-25T14:40:33.860019",66,"For your cycling preset question, you'll want to use variables. Create a variable that tracks which state you're in (1, 2, or 3), then use conditional programming to check the variable value, execute the appropriate lighting level, and increment the variable. When it hits 4, reset it to 1. It's not as complicated as it sounds once you get the hang of variables.\n\nRegarding scenes vs direct programming - I always recommend creating Lighting Scenes in the Agents section first. This way you can reuse them across multiple buttons, schedules, and other triggers without duplicating programming. It also makes future changes much easier since you only have to edit in one place.",{"id":238,"author":255,"author_avatar":256,"created_at":592,"vote_count":123,"is_accepted":25,"body":593},"2024-02-12T14:40:33.860019","The LED customization you're asking about is definitely possible. You'll program it in the garage door's events - when the door opens, set the keypad LED to red; when it closes, set it to green. Pretty straightforward once you find the right commands.",{"id":242,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"created_at":595,"vote_count":258,"is_accepted":25,"body":596},"2024-02-20T14:40:33.860019","I went through this exact same learning curve last year. One tip - before you start experimenting, use the \"Backup\" feature in Composer Pro to save your current project. That way if you mess something up, you can always restore. I learned this the hard way after accidentally breaking my wife's favorite \"goodnight\" button sequence!",{"id":229,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":598,"vote_count":254,"is_accepted":25,"body":599},"2024-03-06T14:40:33.860019","Regarding your Lutron RA2 question - yes, they integrate seamlessly once the driver is set up correctly. From a programming perspective, you treat them just like any other light in the system. The Control4 system communicates with the Lutron main repeater, which then controls the individual switches. I have a mixed system myself and honestly can't tell the difference from a programming standpoint.",{"id":254,"author":308,"author_avatar":309,"created_at":598,"vote_count":217,"is_accepted":25,"body":601},"Quick addition to what HighEndIntegrator said about variables - make sure you're creating the variable in the correct scope. For something like a cycling button, you'll want a device-level variable tied to that specific keypad. Also, don't forget to initialize the variable somewhere, usually in the project's startup programming, otherwise you might get unexpected behavior after a system restart.\n\nFor the press and hold timing, there's a system setting that determines how long constitutes a \"hold\" - I think the default is around 400-500ms but you can adjust it if needed.",{"id":217,"author":300,"author_avatar":301,"created_at":603,"vote_count":134,"is_accepted":25,"body":604},"2024-03-28T14:40:33.860019","One thing nobody mentioned yet - make sure you're running the latest firmware on your keypads. Some of the older firmware versions had quirky behavior with LED color changes, especially when trying to do dynamic colors based on device states.",{"id":11,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":603,"vote_count":350,"is_accepted":25,"body":606},"Thanks everyone! This is incredibly helpful. @HighEndIntegrator - your explanation of variables makes sense. I'll start with the Lighting Scenes approach and then tackle the cycling preset once I'm more comfortable. @DIYSmartHome - great tip on the backup, doing that right now before I touch anything else!",{"id":441,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":580,"vote_count":375,"is_accepted":25,"body":608},"One more thing - if you want to get really fancy with your cycling button, you can add a timeout that resets the variable back to 1 if the button hasn't been pressed in say 30 seconds. That way it always starts fresh at 100% if someone walks into the room after a while. Uses the Timer agent - another useful tool to learn!",{"id":610,"title":611,"tags":612,"view_count":617,"vote_count":618,"answer_count":11,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":13,"created_at":619,"last_activity_at":620,"thumbnail_url":621,"is_technical":12,"has_solution_keywords":25,"related_thread_id":17,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"body":622,"replies":623},"32","Multi-room audio sync with lighting scenes",[613,614,575,315,615,616],"multi-room-audio","sonos-integration","scene-synchronization","timing-delays",9774,43,"2023-12-29T14:50:46.271830","2024-03-27T17:50:46.271830","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002Fced233ec0bc896a43f271f5adc6e068f\u002F1024\u002F768","I'm trying to create an immersive experience in my home where the multi-room audio and lighting scenes work together seamlessly, but I'm running into sync issues that are driving me crazy. Here's my setup: I have a Sonos system spread across 5 zones (living room, kitchen, dining, master bedroom, and outdoor patio) and IxomeAI controlling my Lutron RadioRA 2 lighting throughout the house.\n\nWhat I want to achieve is this: when I activate my \"Evening Entertainment\" scene, I want the lights to dim to 30% in the living room, kitchen, and dining areas while simultaneously starting a specific playlist across those same zones. The problem is there's always a noticeable delay - sometimes the lights change first, other times the music starts and the lights catch up 2-3 seconds later.\n\nI've tried using the scene builder in IxomeAI to combine both actions, but the timing feels inconsistent. Is there a way to add delays to certain commands to get them to land at the same time? Or should I be approaching this differently? I've heard some people use virtual switches or intermediate triggers to help with synchronization.\n\nWould love to hear how others have tackled this. Is the slight delay just something we have to live with when combining different ecosystems, or is there a trick I'm missing?",[624,627,630,634,637,640,643,646],{"id":123,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":625,"vote_count":413,"is_accepted":25,"body":626},"2023-12-31T14:50:46.271830","The delay you're experiencing is pretty common when bridging different protocols. Sonos commands typically take longer to execute than Lutron because of the network overhead. Try adding a 1.5-2 second delay to your Lutron commands so they fire after the Sonos command is sent but arrive at roughly the same perceived time.",{"id":13,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":628,"vote_count":289,"is_accepted":12,"body":629},"2024-01-24T14:50:46.271830","I dealt with this exact issue last year. What worked for me was restructuring the scene execution order. In IxomeAI, send the Sonos command FIRST, then wait 800ms, then trigger the Lutron scene. The Lutron system responds almost instantly while Sonos needs that extra processing time. It's not perfect but gets them within a half-second of each other which feels synchronized to most people.",{"id":238,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":631,"vote_count":632,"is_accepted":25,"body":633},"2024-02-04T14:50:46.271830",13,"Have you considered using a macro instead of a scene? Macros give you more granular control over timing between steps.",{"id":242,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"created_at":635,"vote_count":229,"is_accepted":25,"body":636},"2024-02-29T14:50:46.271830","Interesting problem! I use a similar setup but with Hue lights instead of Lutron. The timing issues are real - I just learned to accept a small delay honestly.",{"id":229,"author":308,"author_avatar":309,"created_at":638,"vote_count":254,"is_accepted":25,"body":639},"2024-03-15T14:50:46.271830","One thing that helped me significantly was ensuring my Sonos system had a static IP assignment and that the IxomeAI hub was on the same VLAN. Network latency can add unpredictable delays. Also check if your router has any QoS settings that might be prioritizing or deprioritizing certain traffic. I shaved off nearly a full second of delay just by optimizing my network configuration. Additionally, if you're using WiFi for your IxomeAI hub, consider switching to ethernet - the consistency improvement alone is worth running the cable.",{"id":254,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":641,"vote_count":293,"is_accepted":25,"body":642},"2024-03-23T14:50:46.271830","Thanks everyone! @LutronFanatic that 800ms delay trick worked perfectly. The scene feels much more cohesive now. I also took @AutomationPro2020's advice and hardwired my hub which seemed to help with consistency.",{"id":217,"author":239,"author_avatar":240,"created_at":644,"vote_count":254,"is_accepted":25,"body":645},"2024-03-27T14:50:46.271830","Glad you got it working! For future reference, you can also create \"pre-stage\" scenes that get the Sonos ready a few seconds before the actual trigger, then use a second command to just hit play. Reduces perceived latency even more.",{"id":11,"author":353,"author_avatar":354,"created_at":620,"vote_count":386,"is_accepted":25,"body":356},{"id":648,"title":649,"tags":650,"view_count":655,"vote_count":201,"answer_count":297,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":123,"created_at":656,"last_activity_at":657,"thumbnail_url":658,"is_technical":12,"has_solution_keywords":12,"related_thread_id":17,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"body":659,"replies":660},"34","Control4 firmware upgrade issues",[196,651,652,653,491,654],"firmware-upgrade","zigbee-mesh","ea-5-controller","device-discovery",9266,"2023-12-21T14:51:35.783238","2024-03-11T14:51:35.783238","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002Fd5eb61c37abab1422d384864ffb5d96a\u002F1024\u002F768","Hey everyone, I'm pulling my hair out over here and really need some guidance from those who've been through Control4 firmware upgrades before. I've got an OS 3.2.3 system that I've been running for about two years now, and my dealer has been pushing me to upgrade to OS 3.4.0 for the new features and security patches.\n\nHere's where things went sideways. My dealer came out yesterday to perform the upgrade, and about halfway through the process, the EA-5 controller seemed to freeze up. The LED was doing this weird amber\u002Fred alternating pattern that none of us had seen before. After about 20 minutes of waiting, he decided to power cycle the controller, and that's when things got really bad.\n\nNow the controller boots up, but it's not seeing about half of my devices. I've got 47 devices total in my system - a mix of lighting (mostly Adaptive Phase dimmers), motorized shades, the doorbell camera, my Sonos integration, and various sensors. Post-upgrade, I'm only seeing 23 devices in the app. The lighting in my master bedroom, home theater, and the entire upstairs seems to have completely disappeared from the system.\n\nThe weird part is that some of these devices still physically work if I use their local controls. Like my theater dimmers respond to the wall buttons, but they're invisible to Control4 and obviously none of my scenes or automation work for those rooms anymore.\n\nMy dealer is stumped and has opened a ticket with Control4 support, but they're telling him it could be 3-5 business days before someone gets back to him. Meanwhile, I've got a house that's half-automated and my wife is NOT happy about the bedroom lights situation (she relies heavily on the goodnight scene).\n\nHas anyone experienced something similar during a firmware upgrade? A few specific questions:\n\n1. Is there any way to roll back to OS 3.2.3? My dealer says no, but I've seen some older forum posts suggesting it might be possible in certain situations.\n\n2. Could this be a ZigBee mesh issue? I'm wondering if the upgrade somehow disrupted the mesh network and maybe the devices just need to be re-discovered or rejoined?\n\n3. Is there a way I can check the controller logs myself, or is that something only the dealer can access through Composer Pro?\n\n4. Should I be worried about my programming? I had a lot of custom macros and conditional logic that took months to set up. If we have to rebuild from scratch, I might actually cry.\n\nAny advice, similar experiences, or just moral support would be greatly appreciated. I love my Control4 system when it works, but moments like this really test my patience with the whole proprietary ecosystem approach.",[661,664,667,670,673,676,679,682,685,688],{"id":123,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":662,"vote_count":235,"is_accepted":12,"body":663},"2024-01-02T14:51:35.783238","That amber\u002Fred LED pattern typically indicates a firmware corruption or incomplete write during the update process. The power cycle during an active firmware update is usually what causes these issues - the controller was likely still writing to flash memory. Unfortunately, your dealer made the wrong call there.\n\nRegarding your questions: No, you cannot roll back Control4 firmware - it's a one-way street by design. However, your programming should be intact in the project file your dealer has backed up (please tell me he backed up before starting). The missing devices are almost certainly a ZigBee mesh issue. When the controller firmware updates, sometimes the ZigBee radio firmware also updates, and this can cause devices to lose their network association.\n\nHave your dealer run a ZigBee diagnostic and try re-identifying the missing devices. They're probably still paired but just lost their route back to the controller. A ZigBee heal might restore most of them without needing to re-pair everything manually.",{"id":13,"author":261,"author_avatar":262,"created_at":665,"vote_count":229,"is_accepted":25,"body":666},"2024-01-07T14:51:35.783238","Ouch, that sounds painful. I've seen this exact scenario play out at least three times with clients. HighEndIntegrator is right about the ZigBee mesh - it's almost always the culprit after firmware updates.",{"id":238,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":668,"vote_count":134,"is_accepted":25,"body":669},"2024-01-14T14:51:35.783238","I had a similar issue last year going from 3.1 to 3.2. Lost about a third of my devices. Took my dealer two visits to get everything back. Super frustrating.",{"id":242,"author":255,"author_avatar":256,"created_at":671,"vote_count":494,"is_accepted":25,"body":672},"2024-01-26T14:51:35.783238","Quick question - are all the missing devices ZigBee, or do you have some IP-controlled devices that also disappeared? If it's only ZigBee devices missing, that confirms the mesh theory. If IP devices are also gone, there might be a project database corruption issue which is a bigger problem but still recoverable from backup.",{"id":229,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":674,"vote_count":556,"is_accepted":25,"body":675},"2024-01-31T14:51:35.783238","Thanks everyone for the quick responses! To answer HomeAutoGeek - now that I look more carefully, you're right, it does seem to be only the ZigBee devices that are missing. My Sonos (IP) and the doorbell camera (also IP) are still showing up fine. That's actually a relief to hear it's probably just the mesh. And yes, my dealer did confirm he has a backup of the project file from right before the upgrade.",{"id":254,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"created_at":677,"vote_count":632,"is_accepted":25,"body":678},"2024-02-02T14:51:35.783238","Not a Control4 owner myself but I lurk here to learn. Just wanted to say this thread is exactly why I'm hesitant about closed ecosystems. Hope you get it sorted!",{"id":217,"author":308,"author_avatar":309,"created_at":680,"vote_count":254,"is_accepted":25,"body":681},"2024-02-22T14:51:35.783238","The good news is your programming is definitely safe if he has the backup. ZigBee re-pairing is tedious but not technically difficult. Your dealer should be able to knock it out in a few hours. Pro tip: have him start with the devices closest to the controller and work outward to rebuild the mesh properly.",{"id":11,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":683,"vote_count":177,"is_accepted":25,"body":684},"2024-02-29T14:51:35.783238","One more thing - don't let your dealer just blindly re-pair devices. He should use the 'Identify' function in Composer first to see if the controller can still find them on the network. Many times the devices are still associated, they just need to be re-identified. This saves all your room assignments and programming connections. Full re-pairing should be the last resort.",{"id":441,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":686,"vote_count":123,"is_accepted":25,"body":687},"2024-03-06T14:51:35.783238","Update for anyone following this thread: My dealer came back today and ran the ZigBee diagnostics that HighEndIntegrator mentioned. He was able to re-identify 19 of the 24 missing devices without full re-pairing! The remaining 5 (all upstairs bedroom dimmers) needed to be factory reset and re-paired, but he was able to reassign them to the existing project entries so my programming survived. System is back to 100% now. Lesson learned: NEVER power cycle during a firmware update, no matter how frozen it looks. Thanks everyone!",{"id":297,"author":419,"author_avatar":420,"created_at":657,"vote_count":413,"is_accepted":25,"body":689},"Glad you got it sorted! For future reference, Control4 updates can sometimes take 30-45 minutes on larger systems. The amber LED states can look scary but patience is key.",{"id":691,"title":692,"tags":693,"view_count":696,"vote_count":618,"answer_count":297,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":238,"created_at":697,"last_activity_at":698,"thumbnail_url":699,"is_technical":12,"has_solution_keywords":12,"related_thread_id":17,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"body":700,"replies":701},"17","Control4 driver updates for Lutron devices",[196,452,694,489,573,695],"driver-update","shade-control",8650,"2023-11-27T14:42:40.887640","2024-02-21T00:42:40.887640","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002Fd812bb7edd9c1bdb9d486392c66cf58b\u002F1024\u002F768","Hey everyone, I'm reaching out because I've been running into some frustrating issues with my Control4 system and Lutron integration lately, and I'm hoping some of you more experienced integrators can point me in the right direction.\n\nI have a fairly extensive setup with Control4 EA-5 controller running OS 3.4.1, integrated with a Lutron RadioRA 3 system. The system has been working flawlessly for about two years, but after a recent Control4 update, I've noticed several issues cropping up:\n\n1. **Delayed feedback** - When I adjust shades or lights through the Lutron app directly, it takes anywhere from 5-30 seconds for the Control4 interface to reflect the actual state. This used to be nearly instantaneous.\n\n2. **Scene inconsistencies** - My \"Good Morning\" scene that triggers both Control4 and Lutron devices is now firing the Lutron components about 3-4 seconds after the Control4-native devices. This creates a weird staggered effect that my wife absolutely hates.\n\n3. **Occasional complete disconnection** - About once a week, the Lutron integration just drops entirely. I have to go into Composer Pro and refresh the connection, or sometimes restart the processor entirely.\n\nMy dealer mentioned that Control4 released updated drivers for Lutron integration sometime in the past few months, but he's been swamped with other projects and hasn't had time to come out and update my system. He did mention something about needing to update both the main Lutron driver AND individual device drivers.\n\nSo my questions are:\n\n- Has anyone else experienced similar issues after updating to OS 3.4.x?\n- Are the new Lutron drivers available through the standard driver update process in Composer, or do they need to be downloaded separately?\n- Is this something I could potentially handle myself if I have Composer Pro access, or is this really a job for a certified dealer?\n- For those who have updated, did it actually resolve timing and feedback issues?\n\nI've done some searching on the Control4 forums but the information there is pretty scattered and often outdated. I know some of you run similar setups and have probably dealt with this already.\n\nFor reference, my Lutron system includes:\n- 47 Sunnata switches\u002Fdimmers\n- 22 Sivoia QS shades\n- 2 RadioRA 3 processors in a connected setup\n\nAny guidance would be greatly appreciated. I'm also curious if anyone has compared the native Control4-Lutron integration versus using something like SSDP or a third-party driver solution. At this point, I'm willing to explore alternatives if the official integration continues to be problematic.\n\nThanks in advance for any help!",[702,705,708,711,714,717,720,723,726,729],{"id":123,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":703,"vote_count":177,"is_accepted":25,"body":704},"2023-11-30T14:42:40.887640","The updated drivers you're looking for were released about 6 weeks ago. Yes, you need to update both the main RadioRA 3 protocol driver AND each individual Lutron device driver. The good news is if you have Composer Pro access, this is totally doable yourself - just make sure to backup your project first.",{"id":13,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":706,"vote_count":329,"is_accepted":25,"body":707},"2023-12-13T14:42:40.887640","I had the exact same delayed feedback issue on my RA3 system. The new drivers completely fixed it for me. The scene timing is much tighter now too.",{"id":238,"author":308,"author_avatar":309,"created_at":709,"vote_count":285,"is_accepted":12,"body":710},"2023-12-21T14:42:40.887640","Here's what worked for me - this is the process I follow for all my clients:\n\n1. Open Composer Pro and connect to your project\n2. Go to the Drivers section and check for updates on the Lutron RadioRA 3 protocol driver first\n3. Update that driver and let it reinitialize the connection\n4. Then go through each Lutron device in your project and check for driver updates individually\n5. After all updates, do a full project refresh\n6. Restart your EA-5 for good measure\n\nThe key is doing the protocol driver FIRST before the device drivers. I made the mistake of doing it backwards on one job and had to start over. Also, make sure your Lutron firmware is current - I believe RA3 needs to be on at least version 1.8.x for full compatibility with the new C4 drivers.",{"id":242,"author":300,"author_avatar":301,"created_at":712,"vote_count":556,"is_accepted":25,"body":713},"2023-12-24T14:42:40.887640","Your Sivoia QS shades specifically benefit from the driver update. There was a known bug with shade position feedback that got addressed. My clients were complaining about the same thing - shades showing 50% in the app when they were actually fully closed.",{"id":229,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"created_at":715,"vote_count":511,"is_accepted":25,"body":716},"2024-01-18T14:42:40.887640","Wait, you guys have Composer Pro access as homeowners? My dealer guards that like it's Fort Knox. How did you get access?",{"id":254,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":718,"vote_count":254,"is_accepted":25,"body":719},"2024-02-01T14:42:40.887640","Thanks everyone! @AutomationPro2020 that's exactly the step-by-step I was looking for. @DIYSmartHome - I had to specifically negotiate Composer Pro access when I signed my contract. Some dealers are more flexible than others, especially if you're technically inclined and they trust you won't break things.",{"id":217,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":721,"vote_count":556,"is_accepted":25,"body":722},"2024-02-03T14:42:40.887640","Just chiming in to confirm AutomationPro's process works perfectly. I updated my system last month following similar steps and my RA3 integration has been rock solid since. The weekly disconnection issue you mentioned was a known bug that got patched.",{"id":11,"author":261,"author_avatar":262,"created_at":724,"vote_count":285,"is_accepted":25,"body":725},"2024-02-10T14:42:40.887640","One thing I'd add - after updating, go into your Lutron programming and verify your integration IDs are still correctly mapped. I've seen a few cases where the driver update reset some device mappings, particularly for shades that were added after the initial setup. Takes an extra 10 minutes but saves headaches later.",{"id":441,"author":255,"author_avatar":256,"created_at":727,"vote_count":122,"is_accepted":25,"body":728},"2024-02-20T14:42:40.887640","Don't forget to also check your scene programming after the update. Some of my macro timings needed adjustment because the new drivers actually respond faster than the old ones. What used to need a 500ms delay now works fine with 200ms or no delay at all.",{"id":297,"author":353,"author_avatar":354,"created_at":698,"vote_count":730,"is_accepted":25,"body":356},41,{"id":732,"title":733,"tags":734,"view_count":739,"vote_count":740,"answer_count":217,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":13,"created_at":741,"last_activity_at":742,"thumbnail_url":743,"is_technical":25,"has_solution_keywords":12,"related_thread_id":17,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"body":744,"replies":745},"30","Control4 touchscreen vs iPad control",[196,735,736,319,737,738],"touchscreen","ipad-control","intercom-system","budget-planning",10272,60,"2023-10-30T14:49:55.070993","2024-01-28T14:49:55.070993","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002F3e01659a225a697926e24cd419668130\u002F1024\u002F768","I'm in the middle of a Control4 installation and my integrator is recommending the official Control4 touchscreens for the main areas of the house. They're quoting me around $2,500 each for the T4 10-inch panels. I currently have several iPads around the house that we use for various things, and I know Control4 has an iOS app.\n\nMy question is: what's the real-world difference between using dedicated Control4 touchscreens versus just mounting iPads with the Control4 app? I understand the aesthetics argument - the flush-mount panels look cleaner. But is there a functional difference I'm missing?\n\nThe integrator mentioned something about the touchscreens having better integration with the intercom system and being more reliable since they're dedicated devices. He also said the iPads can go to sleep or need updates that interrupt functionality. But at $2,500 per panel versus maybe $400-500 for an iPad with a nice wall mount, the price difference is significant - especially when I'm looking at 4-5 locations.\n\nFor those of you who have experience with both, what would you recommend? Are the dedicated panels worth the premium, or is the iPad route a reasonable compromise for someone who isn't doing a full high-end installation?",[746,749,752,756,759,762,765],{"id":123,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":747,"vote_count":238,"is_accepted":25,"body":748},"2023-11-04T14:49:55.070993","The dedicated panels are worth it in my opinion. The intercom functionality alone is a game-changer - video doorbell integration, room-to-room calling, and the panels wake instantly when you approach. iPads work fine as secondary controllers but they're not purpose-built for this.",{"id":13,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":750,"vote_count":432,"is_accepted":12,"body":751},"2023-11-25T14:49:55.070993","As someone who installs both configurations regularly, here's my honest take: the T4 panels are superior for primary control points, but iPads are perfectly acceptable for secondary locations. The T4s have proximity sensors that wake the screen as you approach, dedicated processing that never slows down from background apps, and full intercom capability including video. They also have a much better form factor for permanent wall mounting with proper ventilation and power management.\n\nThat said, I have clients who use a hybrid approach - T4s in the main living areas and master bedroom, then iPads in guest rooms and less critical spots. This gives you the best experience where it matters most while managing budget. The Control4 app on iPad is actually quite good, it's just not as seamless as the dedicated hardware.",{"id":238,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"created_at":753,"vote_count":754,"is_accepted":25,"body":755},"2023-11-27T14:49:55.070993",0,"I went all iPads and honestly regret it a bit. They need charging management, iOS updates sometimes break things temporarily, and family members accidentally close the app or open other things. It works, but it's not as polished.",{"id":242,"author":261,"author_avatar":262,"created_at":757,"vote_count":429,"is_accepted":25,"body":758},"2023-12-19T14:49:55.070993","The intercom system really is the key differentiator. If you don't care about whole-home intercom, the iPad argument gets much stronger. But if you want that functionality, you need the real panels.",{"id":229,"author":308,"author_avatar":309,"created_at":760,"vote_count":216,"is_accepted":25,"body":761},"2024-01-01T14:49:55.070993","One thing nobody has mentioned - resale value. Dedicated Control4 panels look professional and add perceived value to the home. Wall-mounted iPads look like a DIY solution even when done well. If you're in a higher-end home, the optics matter.",{"id":254,"author":255,"author_avatar":256,"created_at":763,"vote_count":216,"is_accepted":25,"body":764},"2024-01-14T14:49:55.070993","I've been running iPads for three years with minimal issues. Use Guided Access mode to lock them to the Control4 app, get a proper charging mount, and disable auto-updates. It's not perfect but the cost savings let me put control in more rooms than I could have afforded otherwise.",{"id":217,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":742,"vote_count":556,"is_accepted":25,"body":766},"Thanks everyone - this is really helpful. I think I'm going to do the hybrid approach that HighEndIntegrator mentioned. T4 panels in the kitchen, family room, and master bedroom, then iPads in the office and guest rooms. Appreciate all the real-world feedback!",{"id":768,"title":769,"tags":770,"view_count":775,"vote_count":776,"answer_count":297,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":13,"created_at":777,"last_activity_at":778,"thumbnail_url":779,"is_technical":12,"has_solution_keywords":12,"related_thread_id":17,"author":239,"author_avatar":240,"body":780,"replies":781},"19","RA2 Select repeater placement tips",[771,213,772,773,115,774],"radiora2-select","rf-coverage","installation-tips","diy-install",18266,62,"2023-09-30T14:44:03.756199","2023-12-14T22:44:03.756199","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002F11328fb3b414742d6103b0085647bcf3\u002F1024\u002F768","Hey everyone, I'm in the process of installing a RadioRA 2 Select system in my 3,200 sq ft two-story home and I'm getting a bit confused about optimal repeater placement. The Lutron documentation mentions that the main repeater has a 30-foot radius for reliable communication, but I'm finding conflicting information about whether that's through walls, line-of-sight, or some combination.\n\nMy home layout is somewhat challenging - it's a colonial style with the main living areas on the first floor (kitchen, living room, dining room, office) and four bedrooms upstairs. The basement is finished and I'd like to control some lights down there as well. Total I'm looking at about 25 switches\u002Fdimmers and 8 Pico remotes spread across all three levels.\n\nCurrently, I was thinking of placing the main repeater in a central closet on the first floor, which happens to be roughly in the middle of the house. However, this closet is surrounded by a bathroom with tile walls on one side and the kitchen with stainless steel appliances on another. I've read that both of these can cause RF interference or signal degradation.\n\nMy questions are:\n\n1. Should I be concerned about the tile and stainless steel near my planned repeater location? Would moving it 10-15 feet to a different location make a meaningful difference?\n\n2. For a three-story setup like mine, would you recommend adding an auxiliary repeater? If so, where would be the optimal placement - basement or second floor?\n\n3. I've seen some people mention that the orientation of the repeater matters - is there a preferred mounting orientation (horizontal vs vertical) that improves coverage?\n\n4. Does anyone have experience with similar square footage homes and can share how many repeaters they ended up needing?\n\nI really want to get this right the first time since I'll be doing most of the installation myself over a few weekends. I've already purchased the main repeater and about half of the switches, so I'm committed to this system. Just want to make sure I'm setting myself up for success with reliable communication throughout the house.\n\nAny tips from those who've done similar installations would be greatly appreciated. I've searched through older threads but most seem to focus on the full RA2 system rather than Select specifically, and I know there are some differences in the hardware capabilities.\n\nThanks in advance for any guidance!",[782,785,789,792,795,798,801,804,807,810],{"id":123,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":783,"vote_count":188,"is_accepted":25,"body":784},"2023-10-21T14:44:03.756199","The 30-foot radius is definitely a general guideline and real-world performance varies a lot based on construction. Tile itself isn't usually a huge problem, but if there's metal mesh behind it (common in older homes) that can definitely attenuate the signal. Stainless appliances are more of a concern if they're directly between the repeater and devices.",{"id":13,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":786,"vote_count":787,"is_accepted":12,"body":788},"2023-11-01T14:44:03.756199",47,"For a 3,200 sq ft three-level home, I'd strongly recommend budgeting for at least one auxiliary repeater from the start. In my experience doing professional installs, trying to cover three floors with a single repeater almost always leads to reliability issues, especially with Picos in far corners. Place your main repeater on the first floor central location (your closet idea is fine, just maybe shift it a few feet away from that stainless if possible), then add an aux repeater in the basement. The basement tends to be the problem child in most installations because you're fighting through floor joists, HVAC ducts, and sometimes concrete. Mounting orientation does matter slightly - keep the repeater vertical with the antenna portion pointing up for best omnidirectional coverage.",{"id":238,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"created_at":790,"vote_count":441,"is_accepted":25,"body":791},"2023-11-05T14:44:03.756199","I have almost the exact same setup - 3,100 sq ft colonial with finished basement. Ended up needing two repeaters total. Main one on first floor and auxiliary in basement. Works flawlessly now.",{"id":242,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":793,"vote_count":229,"is_accepted":25,"body":794},"2023-11-09T14:44:03.756199","One thing worth mentioning - the Select system has a limit of 100 devices total including the repeaters themselves. Make sure you're accounting for that as you plan expansion. With 25 switches and 8 Picos you're at 33 devices, plenty of headroom, but good to keep in mind.",{"id":229,"author":300,"author_avatar":301,"created_at":796,"vote_count":441,"is_accepted":25,"body":797},"2023-11-13T14:44:03.756199","Quick tip from my install - don't put the repeater inside a metal electrical panel enclosure or near your breaker box. I made that mistake initially and had terrible range. Moved it 6 feet away to a regular closet shelf and everything improved dramatically.",{"id":254,"author":239,"author_avatar":240,"created_at":799,"vote_count":346,"is_accepted":25,"body":800},"2023-11-24T14:44:03.756199","Thanks everyone for the responses! @HighEndIntegrator that's exactly the kind of detailed advice I was looking for. I'll definitely plan on adding the auxiliary repeater in the basement. Quick follow-up - does it matter which repeater is designated as 'main' vs 'auxiliary' or is that just terminology?",{"id":217,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":802,"vote_count":425,"is_accepted":25,"body":803},"2023-12-05T14:44:03.756199","Good question - with RA2 Select, your main repeater is the one that connects to your network via Ethernet and runs the system. The auxiliary repeaters just extend RF coverage and communicate back to the main. So the main should be wherever you have easy Ethernet access and reasonable central coverage. The aux units are purely for RF extension.",{"id":11,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":805,"vote_count":11,"is_accepted":25,"body":806},"2023-12-12T14:44:03.756199","Also worth noting that each auxiliary repeater needs to be within range of the main repeater OR another auxiliary. They form a mesh of sorts. So don't put your basement aux in a far corner if your main is on the opposite side of the first floor.",{"id":441,"author":308,"author_avatar":309,"created_at":808,"vote_count":346,"is_accepted":25,"body":809},"2023-12-14T14:44:03.756199","I'd also suggest doing a test before you commit to final placement. Install just a few switches in the furthest locations from your planned repeater spot and verify they respond reliably for a few days. Much easier to adjust repeater placement before you've mounted everything permanently. I learned this the hard way when I had to relocate my repeater after finishing the whole install.",{"id":297,"author":353,"author_avatar":354,"created_at":778,"vote_count":379,"is_accepted":25,"body":356},{"id":812,"title":813,"tags":814,"view_count":818,"vote_count":819,"answer_count":217,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":238,"created_at":820,"last_activity_at":821,"thumbnail_url":822,"is_technical":25,"has_solution_keywords":25,"related_thread_id":17,"author":282,"author_avatar":283,"body":823,"replies":824},"6","Palladiom shades making noise during operation",[455,815,816,115,817,491],"motor-noise","installation-issues","shade-calibration",17343,51,"2023-09-11T14:37:17.094072","2023-12-05T14:37:17.094072","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002Fc99e93a71d37506840893a12d362cbb4\u002F1024\u002F768","Hey everyone, I recently had a full Palladiom shade installation completed in my living room and master bedroom - 6 shades total across both rooms. The system looks absolutely stunning and the integration with my Lutron system is flawless. However, I've noticed something that's starting to bother me.\n\nDuring operation, especially when raising the shades, there's a noticeable humming\u002Fbuzzing noise coming from what I assume is the motor. It's not extremely loud, but in a quiet room it's definitely audible from about 15 feet away. My wife has mentioned it a few times and it's becoming a bit of an annoyance, especially in the bedroom when we're trying to have a peaceful morning.\n\nIs this normal for Palladiom shades? I was under the impression these were supposed to be whisper-quiet given the premium price point. The noise seems consistent across all 6 shades, so I don't think it's a defective unit. My installer says this is within spec, but I wanted to get some real-world feedback from other owners.\n\nThe shades are the roller style with blackout fabric, installed about 3 months ago. Has anyone else experienced this? Is there anything that can be done to reduce the noise, or should I push back on my dealer? Any input would be appreciated.",[825,828,831,834,837,840,842],{"id":123,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":826,"vote_count":441,"is_accepted":25,"body":827},"2023-09-14T14:37:17.094072","Palladiom shades are definitely quieter than most motorized shades on the market, but they're not completely silent. Some operational noise is expected, especially with heavier blackout fabrics which put more load on the motor. That said, if it's noticeable from 15 feet away, that seems a bit excessive. Have you checked if the mounting brackets are properly secured? Loose brackets can amplify motor vibration significantly.",{"id":13,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":829,"vote_count":754,"is_accepted":25,"body":830},"2023-09-27T14:37:17.094072","I have 4 Palladiom shades and mine are nearly silent. You can barely hear them from 5 feet away. Something doesn't sound right with your installation.",{"id":238,"author":419,"author_avatar":420,"created_at":832,"vote_count":176,"is_accepted":12,"body":833},"2023-10-10T14:37:17.094072","This is actually a common issue I've seen with Palladiom installations, and 9 times out of 10 it comes down to one of three things: improper bracket mounting, fabric tension issues, or the shades not being properly calibrated after installation.\n\nFirst, check that all mounting brackets are torqued properly and that there's no gap between the bracket and the mounting surface. Even a small gap can create a resonance chamber that amplifies motor noise. Second, have your installer verify the fabric tension - if it's too tight, the motor works harder and makes more noise. Finally, make sure the installer ran the full calibration routine. Palladiom shades have a specific break-in calibration that optimizes motor performance. If this was skipped, you'll get more noise.\n\nI'd push back on your dealer and have them come out to verify all three of these items. Given what you paid for these shades, you deserve proper performance.",{"id":242,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":835,"vote_count":146,"is_accepted":25,"body":836},"2023-10-26T14:37:17.094072","Agree with the above. My Palladiom shades were noisy at first but after recalibration they're whisper quiet now. Definitely have them come back out.",{"id":229,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":838,"vote_count":425,"is_accepted":25,"body":839},"2023-11-17T14:37:17.094072","Quick question - are the shades installed in a pocket or surface mounted? Pocket installations can sometimes create acoustic issues if the pocket isn't properly insulated.",{"id":254,"author":282,"author_avatar":283,"created_at":821,"vote_count":122,"is_accepted":25,"body":841},"Thanks for all the responses! To answer the question - they're surface mounted, no pocket. I'm going to contact my dealer tomorrow and specifically ask them to check the bracket mounting and run the calibration routine again. Didn't realize there was a specific break-in process. Will report back!",{"id":217,"author":300,"author_avatar":301,"created_at":821,"vote_count":346,"is_accepted":25,"body":843},"Good luck! Also worth mentioning - make sure they check the tube alignment inside the fascia. If the roller tube isn't perfectly level, it can cause the motor to strain and create noise. It's a subtle thing but makes a big difference. These shades should be nearly inaudible when properly installed.",{"id":845,"title":846,"tags":847,"view_count":851,"vote_count":258,"answer_count":201,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":229,"created_at":852,"last_activity_at":853,"thumbnail_url":854,"is_technical":12,"has_solution_keywords":25,"related_thread_id":17,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"body":855,"replies":856},"4","Lutron Caséta dimmer flickering with LED bulbs",[361,848,849,850,491],"led-flickering","dimmer-compatibility","smart-lighting",17190,"2023-09-03T14:36:14.370722","2023-11-16T23:36:14.370722","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002F38ff4b0b33c6705a1db32b4571ba3c51\u002F1024\u002F768","Hey everyone, I'm hoping to get some help with a frustrating issue I've been dealing with for the past few weeks. I recently installed several Lutron Caséta dimmers (PD-6WCL-WH) throughout my home to replace standard toggle switches. The installation went smoothly, and I got them all connected to my Smart Bridge Pro without any issues. However, I'm experiencing significant flickering with my LED bulbs, and it's driving me crazy.\n\nHere's my setup: I have a combination of different LED bulbs throughout the house. In the living room, I'm using Philips 9W dimmable LEDs (about 6 bulbs on one circuit). In the dining room, I have some Cree 60W equivalent dimmable bulbs. The master bedroom has FEIT Electric dimmable LEDs. All of these are advertised as dimmable and were working fine with my old dimmers (basic Leviton dimmers that came with the house).\n\nThe flickering happens in a few different scenarios. First, when I dim below about 40%, the bulbs start to flicker noticeably - it's not a subtle thing, it's very visible and annoying. Second, sometimes when I turn the lights on from the Pico remote, there's a brief flash or flicker before the lights stabilize. Third, occasionally at higher dim levels (around 70-80%), I notice a very subtle pulsing that's more noticeable in my peripheral vision.\n\nI've already tried a few things based on some initial research. I adjusted the low-end trim on the dimmers using the tap-tap-tap-hold method to raise the minimum level, which helped a little bit but didn't eliminate the problem. I also made sure all my neutral wires are properly connected (these are the newer Caséta dimmers that can work with or without neutral, and I do have neutrals available and connected).\n\nI've read that Lutron maintains a compatibility list for LED bulbs, but I'm confused because some sources say any dimmable LED should work, while others suggest only specific bulbs are truly compatible. Do I really need to replace all my bulbs with ones specifically on Lutron's compatibility list? That seems like a significant additional expense on top of what I already spent on the dimmers.\n\nA few specific questions for the community:\n1. Is this flickering normal to some degree with LED bulbs and Caséta dimmers, or should I expect flicker-free operation?\n2. Has anyone had success with the specific bulb brands I mentioned (Philips, Cree, FEIT)?\n3. Are there any other adjustments or settings I should try before replacing bulbs?\n4. If I do need new bulbs, what brands\u002Fmodels have worked best for you with Caséta dimmers?\n\nI really love the Caséta system otherwise - the app works great, the Pico remotes are fantastic, and the whole family has adapted to using them easily. I just need to solve this flickering issue to make the system perfect. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!",[857,860,863,866,869,873,876,879,882,885,888],{"id":123,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":858,"vote_count":375,"is_accepted":25,"body":859},"2023-09-06T14:36:14.370722","This is a super common issue and the answer is almost always bulb compatibility. Lutron's compatibility list exists for a reason - not all \"dimmable\" LEDs are created equal. The drivers inside cheap LEDs often don't play nice with leading-edge or trailing-edge dimmers. I'd strongly recommend checking Lutron's official compatibility tool and getting bulbs that are specifically tested. In my experience, the investment in quality compatible bulbs is worth every penny for flicker-free operation.",{"id":13,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":861,"vote_count":754,"is_accepted":25,"body":862},"2023-09-15T14:36:14.370722","Have you tried adjusting both the high-end AND low-end trim? Sometimes the high-end trim adjustment can help with that pulsing you're seeing at 70-80%. Also, how many watts total are on each dimmer circuit? The PD-6WCL is rated for 150W of LED, and if you're close to that limit, you might see some issues.",{"id":238,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":864,"vote_count":11,"is_accepted":25,"body":865},"2023-09-16T14:36:14.370722","Thanks for the quick responses! I calculated my loads and the living room with 6 bulbs at 9W each is only 54W total, so I should be well under the limit. I haven't tried adjusting the high-end trim though - I'll give that a shot tonight.",{"id":242,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":867,"vote_count":386,"is_accepted":25,"body":868},"2023-09-27T14:36:14.370722","FEIT bulbs are notorious for flickering with Caséta dimmers. Replace those first and see if it helps. Cree has been hit or miss in my installations.",{"id":229,"author":300,"author_avatar":301,"created_at":870,"vote_count":871,"is_accepted":12,"body":872},"2023-10-03T14:36:14.370722",42,"I went through this exact same journey about two years ago when I first installed my Caséta system. Here's what I learned: the Lutron compatibility list is your bible. I know it feels like an unnecessary expense, but I ended up standardizing on Philips Warm Glow bulbs throughout my entire house, and every single flickering issue disappeared overnight. The specific model that works perfectly for me is the Philips 548396 - they're on Lutron's list and they dim beautifully down to very low levels without any flicker or buzz. I can dim to about 5% with zero issues. The warm glow feature is also nice because the color temperature shifts warmer as you dim, similar to incandescent. Yes, I had to replace probably 40 bulbs, but I bought them in bulk from Amazon and the cost was manageable. Trust me, once you experience proper flicker-free dimming, you won't regret the investment.",{"id":254,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"created_at":874,"vote_count":413,"is_accepted":25,"body":875},"2023-10-07T14:36:14.370722","Quick tip - make sure you're not mixing bulb brands on the same circuit. Even if each brand works individually, mixing them can cause weird interactions. Try putting all the same bulbs on one dimmer and see if that helps.",{"id":217,"author":239,"author_avatar":240,"created_at":877,"vote_count":754,"is_accepted":25,"body":878},"2023-10-14T14:36:14.370722","The flash on startup you mentioned is often related to the dimmer's fade-on rate. You can adjust this in the Lutron app under device settings. Try setting a slower fade-on time and see if that eliminates the initial flash.",{"id":11,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":880,"vote_count":350,"is_accepted":25,"body":881},"2023-11-05T14:36:14.370722","Update: I adjusted the high-end trim and changed the fade-on rate as suggested. The startup flash is gone now! Still have some flickering at low levels though. I think I'm going to bite the bullet and order some Philips Warm Glow bulbs for the living room as a test.",{"id":441,"author":308,"author_avatar":309,"created_at":883,"vote_count":511,"is_accepted":25,"body":884},"2023-11-11T14:36:14.370722","Good call on testing with one room first. Also worth mentioning - if you have any bulbs that are old or have been in service for several years, their drivers can degrade and cause flickering even if they worked fine before. LED bulbs don't last forever despite the marketing claims.",{"id":297,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":886,"vote_count":511,"is_accepted":25,"body":887},"2023-11-16T14:36:14.370722","Let us know how the Philips Warm Glow test goes! I'd bet money that solves your problem completely.",{"id":201,"author":353,"author_avatar":354,"created_at":853,"vote_count":889,"is_accepted":25,"body":356},50,{"id":891,"title":892,"tags":893,"view_count":898,"vote_count":375,"answer_count":297,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":13,"created_at":899,"last_activity_at":900,"thumbnail_url":901,"is_technical":25,"has_solution_keywords":12,"related_thread_id":17,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"body":902,"replies":903},"29","Programming timed events in the Lutron app",[894,895,896,451,897,319],"lutron-radiora-2","timeclock-programming","scheduling","lutron-app",15186,"2023-08-22T14:49:18.149162","2023-11-20T14:49:18.149162","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002Fc68b04bb97dfd9d3d0d6ccf8bffac097\u002F1024\u002F768","Hey everyone, I recently had a Lutron RadioRA 2 system installed in my home and I'm trying to get my head around programming timed events in the Lutron app. The installer did the basic setup but I want to customize things further on my own without having to call them back for every little change.\n\nSpecifically, I'm trying to accomplish a few things:\n\n1. I want my porch lights to turn on automatically at sunset and off at 11 PM every night. I've seen there's an astronomical clock feature but I'm not entirely sure how to access it or set it up properly.\n\n2. I'd like to create a \"morning routine\" that gradually brings up the bedroom lights starting at 6:30 AM on weekdays only, but not on weekends. Is there a way to do day-of-week scheduling?\n\n3. My home office lights should turn on at 8 AM and off at 6 PM Monday through Friday. Again, the weekday-only thing is confusing me.\n\n4. I also want to program a vacation mode where random lights turn on and off throughout the evening to make it look like someone is home. I've heard this is possible but haven't found clear instructions.\n\nI've been poking around in the Lutron app on my iPhone and I can see the \"Timeclock\" section but honestly the interface isn't super intuitive to me. When I try to create a new event, I see options for \"Time\" and \"Action\" but I'm getting confused about how to tie specific scenes or individual lights to these timed events.\n\nAlso, is there a difference between creating events in the app versus using the Lutron software on a computer? My installer mentioned something about the Essentials software but said I probably wouldn't need it for basic stuff.\n\nOne more question - if I set up these timed events, will they still work if my WiFi goes down or if the app isn't running on my phone? I want to make sure this is reliable and not dependent on cloud connectivity.\n\nI've watched a few YouTube videos but they all seem to be for different Lutron systems (Caseta, RA3, etc.) and the interfaces look different. Would really appreciate some guidance from those of you who have mastered the RadioRA 2 timeclock programming. Screenshots or step-by-step instructions would be amazing if anyone has the time.\n\nThanks in advance for any help!",[904,907,911,914,917,920,923,926,929,932],{"id":123,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":905,"vote_count":375,"is_accepted":25,"body":906},"2023-08-28T14:49:18.149162","Welcome to the RA2 club! Good news - yes, all your timed events run locally on the main repeater, so no WiFi or cloud dependency. The timeclock is rock solid once programmed. For the astronomical clock feature, you'll find it under Timeclock > Add Event > and then select \"Sunrise\" or \"Sunset\" as your trigger type instead of a specific time.",{"id":13,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":908,"vote_count":909,"is_accepted":12,"body":910},"2023-09-06T14:49:18.149162",38,"To expand on what LutronFanatic said, here's the step-by-step for your porch light scenario:\n\n1. Open the Lutron app and go to Settings > Timeclock\n2. Tap the + to add a new event\n3. For the trigger, select \"Sunset\" - you can also add an offset like +15 minutes if you want it slightly after\n4. Under \"Action,\" select your porch light and set it to your desired level\n5. For days, you can select All Days or specific days of the week\n6. Create a second event for 11 PM with the same light set to Off\n\nThe weekday vs weekend scheduling is absolutely supported. When you're setting up the event, there's a \"Days\" option where you can check\u002Funcheck individual days. So for your office, just check Mon-Fri and leave Sat-Sun unchecked.",{"id":238,"author":239,"author_avatar":240,"created_at":912,"vote_count":123,"is_accepted":25,"body":913},"2023-09-29T14:49:18.149162","The vacation mode you're asking about is called \"Away Mode\" in the Lutron ecosystem. It's pretty clever - it actually learns your patterns over time and then replays them randomly when activated.",{"id":242,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":915,"vote_count":201,"is_accepted":25,"body":916},"2023-10-10T14:49:18.149162","Just a heads up - the Essentials software your installer mentioned is the professional programming tool. You won't have access to it as a homeowner, but the app covers about 80% of what most people need for timeclock events. The main things you CAN'T do in the app are creating new scenes or modifying button assignments on keypads.",{"id":229,"author":255,"author_avatar":256,"created_at":918,"vote_count":425,"is_accepted":25,"body":919},"2023-10-17T14:49:18.149162","For your gradual wake-up routine, you'll want to create a scene first (if one doesn't exist) that has your bedroom lights at the desired morning level. Then in the timeclock, set that scene to activate at 6:30 AM. Unfortunately, the basic app doesn't support fade-over-time for timeclock events - it's either instant or you need to use the professional software to program a slow fade. One workaround is to create multiple events at 6:30, 6:35, 6:40, etc., each bringing the lights up slightly higher.",{"id":254,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"created_at":921,"vote_count":146,"is_accepted":25,"body":922},"2023-10-18T14:49:18.149162","I do the multiple event workaround for my sunrise simulation. It's tedious to set up but works great once done. I have 6 events spaced 5 minutes apart going from 5% to 60%.",{"id":217,"author":300,"author_avatar":301,"created_at":924,"vote_count":11,"is_accepted":25,"body":925},"2023-10-25T14:49:18.149162","Don't forget you can also tie shade movements to the timeclock if you have Sivoia shades. I have mine programmed to open at sunrise on weekends for a natural wake-up. Same process as lights - just select the shade and desired position instead of a light level.",{"id":11,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":927,"vote_count":238,"is_accepted":25,"body":928},"2023-10-28T14:49:18.149162","This is all incredibly helpful, thank you! I just successfully set up my porch lights with the sunset trigger. One follow-up question - is there a way to see all my programmed events in one list view? I want to make sure I'm not creating conflicts.",{"id":441,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":930,"vote_count":134,"is_accepted":25,"body":931},"2023-10-31T14:49:18.149162","Yes! In the Timeclock section, there should be a list view showing all active events. You can sort by time or by device. Super handy for exactly what you're describing.",{"id":297,"author":308,"author_avatar":309,"created_at":900,"vote_count":177,"is_accepted":25,"body":933},"One pro tip - always name your events descriptively. Instead of \"Event 1\" use something like \"Porch_Sunset_On\" or \"Office_Weekday_Off\". Future you will thank present you when you have 30+ events and need to troubleshoot something.",{"id":935,"title":936,"tags":937,"view_count":942,"vote_count":146,"answer_count":217,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":13,"created_at":943,"last_activity_at":944,"thumbnail_url":945,"is_technical":25,"has_solution_keywords":12,"related_thread_id":17,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"body":946,"replies":947},"10","Programming scenes with Control4 and Lutron shades",[196,938,453,939,940,941],"lutron-palladiom","scene-programming","homeworks-qsx","smart-home-integration",22002,"2023-07-19T14:38:52.327166","2023-09-15T14:38:52.327166","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002F8f77a2a8c56d85ca722186e920a404de\u002F1024\u002F768","Hey everyone, I'm working on setting up some automated scenes in my home that combine Control4 lighting control with my Lutron Palladiom shades. I've got a Control4 EA-5 controller and about 12 Palladiom wired shades throughout the main living areas.\n\nMy goal is to create a \"Movie Time\" scene that dims the lights to 20%, closes all the shades in the media room completely, and maybe even triggers my Sonos to start playing. I also want a \"Good Morning\" scene that opens the bedroom shades gradually over 15 minutes while slowly bringing up the lights.\n\nThe integration between Control4 and the Lutron system is already working - I can control individual shades from the Control4 app. But I'm struggling with the programming side of creating these complex scenes with timed shade movements.\n\nSpecifically, I have a few questions:\n1. Is there a way to program gradual shade opening over a set time period, or do shades just go to a position at one speed?\n2. How do you handle the delay between sending commands to multiple shades so they don't all try to move at once?\n3. Any tips for triggering scenes based on sunrise\u002Fsunset times that adjust throughout the year?\n\nMy dealer set up the basic integration but charges $150\u002Fhour for programming and I'd like to understand more about what's possible before I bring them back. Thanks in advance!",[948,951,955,958,961,964,967],{"id":123,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":949,"vote_count":375,"is_accepted":25,"body":950},"2023-07-26T14:38:52.327166","Good news - Control4 has excellent astronomical clock integration built in. You can set triggers based on sunrise\u002Fsunset with offsets (like 30 minutes before sunset). For the gradual shade movement, that's trickier since Palladiom shades move at a fixed speed - you'd need to program intermediate positions with delays between them.",{"id":13,"author":282,"author_avatar":283,"created_at":952,"vote_count":953,"is_accepted":12,"body":954},"2023-07-27T14:38:52.327166",48,"I have a similar setup and went through this exact process last year. For the gradual morning wake-up, what I did was create a macro that sends the shades to 25% open, waits 5 minutes, then 50%, waits 5 more minutes, etc. It's not perfectly smooth but it works well enough. The Palladiom shades themselves don't support variable speed control - they just go to the position you tell them at their standard speed.\n\nFor staggering multiple shades, I add 2-second delays between each shade command in the programming. This prevents overwhelming the Lutron processor and also looks more intentional, like a wave effect across the room. Your dealer should be able to set this up pretty quickly if you explain exactly what you want.",{"id":238,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":956,"vote_count":177,"is_accepted":25,"body":957},"2023-08-09T14:38:52.327166","Just a heads up - make sure your Control4 is talking to the Lutron system via the proper integration protocol. If it's using the Lutron Connect Bridge, you'll have more limitations than if it's direct IP control to a RadioRA 3 or HomeWorks processor.",{"id":242,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":959,"vote_count":494,"is_accepted":25,"body":960},"2023-08-19T14:38:52.327166","Thanks all! @PalladiomOwner that macro approach makes sense. I didn't realize the shades couldn't do variable speeds natively. @LutronFanatic - I believe it's going through a HomeWorks QSX processor, so hopefully that gives me full control?",{"id":229,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":962,"vote_count":134,"is_accepted":25,"body":963},"2023-09-07T14:38:52.327166","QSX is perfect for this. You actually have two options: program the scenes in HomeWorks itself and just trigger them from Control4, or program everything in Control4. I usually recommend the former for shade-heavy scenes because the QSX handles the timing more reliably. Then Control4 just sends a single \"activate scene\" command.",{"id":254,"author":308,"author_avatar":309,"created_at":965,"vote_count":242,"is_accepted":25,"body":966},"2023-09-10T14:38:52.327166","One thing to add - for your Movie Time scene, consider adding a 1-2 second delay after the shades start closing before dimming the lights. Looks way more polished than everything happening simultaneously.",{"id":217,"author":300,"author_avatar":301,"created_at":944,"vote_count":13,"is_accepted":25,"body":968},"Agree with the staged timing approach. Also, don't forget you can use the shade's preset positions (like favorite settings) programmed directly into the Palladiom system. Sometimes that's cleaner than sending specific percentage values from Control4 every time.",{"id":970,"title":971,"tags":972,"view_count":978,"vote_count":146,"answer_count":217,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":238,"created_at":979,"last_activity_at":980,"thumbnail_url":981,"is_technical":25,"has_solution_keywords":12,"related_thread_id":17,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"body":982,"replies":983},"7","Best way to add keypads to existing RA2 Select system",[973,974,975,976,115,977],"ra2-select","keypads","pico-remotes","scene-control","system-expansion",22212,"2023-07-15T14:37:40.850730","2023-09-08T14:37:40.850730","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002Fcd68ccdb9b4554fbfe0ecfdf24c9ad8a\u002F1024\u002F768","Hey everyone, I've had a Lutron RA2 Select system running in my home for about two years now and I'm really happy with it overall. Currently controlling about 25 switches and dimmers throughout the house using the app and a couple of Pico remotes.\n\nNow I want to add some keypads to a few key locations - specifically the master bedroom entry, the main hallway, and by the garage door. I want the \"goodnight\" and \"welcome home\" type scene control that I see in higher-end installs.\n\nMy question is: what's the best approach here? I know RA2 Select has limitations compared to full RA2. Can I use the seeTouch keypads with Select, or am I limited to just Picos mounted in wall brackets? I've seen some people mention the Pico scene keypads but I'm not sure if those give me enough buttons for what I want.\n\nAlso, is there a way to get backlit buttons with RA2 Select? The wife really wants something that's easy to see at night in the hallway. Budget isn't super tight but I also don't want to rip everything out and start over with a full RA2 system if I can avoid it.\n\nAny advice from those who've expanded their Select systems would be really appreciated. Thanks in advance!",[984,987,990,993,996,999,1002],{"id":123,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":985,"vote_count":134,"is_accepted":25,"body":986},"2023-07-22T14:37:40.850730","Unfortunately RA2 Select doesn't support seeTouch keypads - you're limited to Picos. The good news is the Pico scene keypads (PJ2-4B-GXX-L31) give you 4 programmable buttons plus raise\u002Flower, which handles most scene needs pretty well.",{"id":13,"author":239,"author_avatar":240,"created_at":988,"vote_count":238,"is_accepted":25,"body":989},"2023-08-03T14:37:40.850730","I'm in a similar boat and went with the Pico wall plate adapters with the 4-button scene Picos. They look surprisingly good mounted on the wall with the Claro wallplates. For the backlight issue, you're out of luck with Select - none of the Picos have illuminated buttons. Some people add small LED nightlights nearby as a workaround, but it's not elegant.",{"id":238,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":991,"vote_count":333,"is_accepted":12,"body":992},"2023-08-19T14:37:40.850730","Here's the reality check: RA2 Select was designed as a cost-effective entry point, and keypads are one of the main things they stripped out to hit that price point. Your options are essentially Picos in wall brackets or upgrading to full RadioRA 2 or even RadioRA 3.\n\nIf you want proper keypads with engraving, backlighting, and more button options, you're looking at a main repeater swap and potentially re-programming everything. That said, RadioRA 3 just launched and has some nice keypad options including the new seeTouch models. Might be worth getting a quote from a dealer to see what a migration would cost.\n\nFor now, the 4-button Picos in Claro brackets are your best bet within Select. You can create pretty sophisticated scenes - I've done whole-home goodnight routines on a single button press. The limitation is really aesthetic, not functional.",{"id":242,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"created_at":994,"vote_count":329,"is_accepted":25,"body":995},"2023-08-25T14:37:40.850730","What about using something like a Brilliant smart switch panel at those locations? It can integrate with Lutron and gives you the touchscreen scene control with backlighting. Not a pure Lutron solution but it works.",{"id":229,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":997,"vote_count":263,"is_accepted":25,"body":998},"2023-08-28T14:37:40.850730","The Brilliant suggestion isn't bad but adds complexity and another point of failure. Plus the integration goes through the cloud which adds latency. If you want rock-solid reliability, staying within the Lutron ecosystem is the way to go even if it means Picos.",{"id":254,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":1000,"vote_count":511,"is_accepted":25,"body":1001},"2023-08-29T14:37:40.850730","Just curious - how many total devices are you controlling? If you're at 25 already and want to expand, you might be bumping up against Select's 100 device limit soon anyway. Might make the RA3 upgrade more justifiable if you're planning future expansion.",{"id":217,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":980,"vote_count":201,"is_accepted":25,"body":1003},"Thanks everyone for the detailed responses! Sounds like Picos in wall brackets are my immediate solution. @HighEndIntegrator - I'll reach out to a dealer about RA3 migration costs just to have that info. We're planning a kitchen renovation next year so maybe that's the time to make the jump if the numbers make sense.",{"id":1005,"title":1006,"tags":1007,"view_count":1011,"vote_count":355,"answer_count":201,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":242,"created_at":1012,"last_activity_at":1013,"thumbnail_url":1014,"is_technical":12,"has_solution_keywords":12,"related_thread_id":17,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"body":1015,"replies":1016},"36","Smart blinds not closing fully",[938,1008,1009,1010,491],"smart-shades","calibration-issue","limit-settings",14811,"2023-01-01T14:52:48.743863","2023-03-31T01:52:48.743863","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002F2fead5fe318465277849ebb19467efb3\u002F1024\u002F768","Hey everyone, I'm hoping someone here can help me troubleshoot an issue that's been driving me crazy for the past couple of weeks. I have a set of Lutron Palladiom shades installed in my living room - specifically four units covering a large window wall facing west. They've been working perfectly for about 18 months, but recently I've noticed that two of them (the middle two) aren't closing fully anymore.\n\nWhen I send a close command - whether through the Lutron app, my Control4 system, or even the physical keypad - the shades will lower about 95% of the way and then stop. There's a visible gap at the bottom of maybe 2-3 inches. It's not huge, but it's definitely noticeable, especially in the evening when we're trying to block out the sunset glare while watching TV.\n\nHere's what I've tried so far:\n\n1. I've recalibrated the shades through the Lutron app following their official procedure. The calibration process seems to complete successfully, but the problem persists.\n\n2. I checked the physical tracks and hembar for any obstructions or debris - everything looks clean.\n\n3. I tried running the shades up and down manually about 20 times thinking maybe something was binding, but no luck.\n\n4. I've verified that the fabric isn't bunching up anywhere on the roll.\n\n5. Reset the processor and re-paired the shades.\n\nThe weird thing is that the outer two shades on the same window wall close perfectly every single time. All four shades are identical models, installed at the same time, and connected to the same processor. The two problematic shades are right next to each other in the center.\n\nI'm wondering if this could be a motor issue, a limit setting problem, or something else entirely. The shades don't make any unusual sounds when operating - no clicking, grinding, or straining. They just stop short of the bottom position as if they think they've reached their limit.\n\nOne thing I should mention - we did have a power outage about three weeks ago that lasted several hours. I'm not sure if that could have corrupted something in the shade memory or settings. The timing seems to line up roughly with when I first noticed the issue.\n\nI really don't want to call out my integrator for what might be a simple fix, especially since their service call fees are pretty steep. Has anyone experienced something similar? Is there a way to manually adjust the lower limits on Palladiom shades, or is this something that requires the dealer programming software?\n\nAny advice would be greatly appreciated. These shades were a significant investment and I'd hate to think the motors are already failing after less than two years.",[1017,1020,1023,1026,1029,1032,1035,1038,1041,1044,1047],{"id":123,"author":282,"author_avatar":283,"created_at":1018,"vote_count":258,"is_accepted":25,"body":1019},"2023-01-04T14:52:48.743863","I had almost the exact same issue with my Palladiom shades last year. In my case, it turned out to be the lower limit settings got corrupted somehow. Unfortunately, adjusting the precise limits on Palladiom requires the dealer software - it's not something you can do through the homeowner app. Might be worth asking your integrator if they can do a remote session to check the limits before scheduling a full service call.",{"id":13,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":1021,"vote_count":258,"is_accepted":25,"body":1022},"2023-01-05T14:52:48.743863","Power outages can definitely mess with shade limits. Have you tried a full factory reset on just those two shades? Hold the shade button on the back of the motor for 15 seconds until the LED flashes rapidly, then re-add them to your system.",{"id":238,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":1024,"vote_count":346,"is_accepted":25,"body":1025},"2023-01-13T14:52:48.743863","Thanks for the quick responses! I didn't realize the limit adjustments required dealer software - that's frustrating. I'll try the factory reset suggestion tonight and report back.",{"id":242,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":1027,"vote_count":235,"is_accepted":12,"body":1028},"2023-01-14T14:52:48.743863","Integrator here. This is a pretty common issue we see with Palladiom shades after power events. The factory reset mentioned above is a good first step, but here's the complete procedure that usually resolves it:\n\n1. Remove the shade from your Lutron system entirely\n2. Perform the factory reset (15-second hold on the motor button)\n3. Wait 30 seconds, then power cycle the shade by unplugging it briefly if accessible, or turning off the circuit\n4. Re-add the shade to your system\n5. Run the automatic calibration - make sure the room is quiet and there's no vibration during this process\n6. If the calibration still comes up short, there's a manual adjustment mode where you can nudge the lower limit down in small increments\n\nThe manual adjustment IS available in the homeowner app for basic tweaks - go to the shade settings, look for 'Adjust Limits' and you should be able to fine-tune the bottom position. This was added in a firmware update about a year ago. If you don't see it, your processor firmware might need updating.",{"id":229,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":1030,"vote_count":494,"is_accepted":25,"body":1031},"2023-02-08T14:52:48.743863","Just curious - are you sending the close commands from Control4 or directly from Lutron? Sometimes there can be integration quirks where the command being sent isn't quite 0%.",{"id":254,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":1033,"vote_count":632,"is_accepted":25,"body":1034},"2023-02-10T14:52:48.743863","Good question - I tested from both systems and the physical Lutron keypad. Same result regardless of the source, so I don't think it's an integration issue.",{"id":217,"author":300,"author_avatar":301,"created_at":1036,"vote_count":441,"is_accepted":25,"body":1037},"2023-02-11T14:52:48.743863","The 'Adjust Limits' option that HighEndIntegrator mentioned is definitely your best bet. I've used it on my own shades when they drifted slightly. Super easy once you find it in the app.",{"id":11,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"created_at":1039,"vote_count":441,"is_accepted":25,"body":1040},"2023-03-19T14:52:48.743863","Also worth checking - is your Lutron processor firmware up to date? I know they pushed an update earlier this year that addressed some shade calibration issues.",{"id":441,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":1042,"vote_count":11,"is_accepted":25,"body":1043},"2023-03-27T14:52:48.743863","Update: I found the Adjust Limits option in the app! It was buried under Device Settings > Advanced. I was able to nudge the lower limit down on both shades and they're now closing completely. Thank you so much HighEndIntegrator - you saved me a service call! The whole process took maybe 10 minutes once I knew where to look.",{"id":297,"author":308,"author_avatar":309,"created_at":1045,"vote_count":350,"is_accepted":25,"body":1046},"2023-03-30T14:52:48.743863","Glad you got it sorted! I'd still recommend checking your processor firmware when you get a chance. If a power outage caused the limits to drift, there might be other settings that got affected too.",{"id":201,"author":353,"author_avatar":354,"created_at":1013,"vote_count":258,"is_accepted":25,"body":356},{"id":1049,"title":1050,"tags":1051,"view_count":1055,"vote_count":429,"answer_count":297,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":238,"created_at":1056,"last_activity_at":1057,"thumbnail_url":1058,"is_technical":12,"has_solution_keywords":25,"related_thread_id":17,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"body":1059,"replies":1060},"11","Sivoia QS wireless shades battery life issues",[1052,1053,1054,115,772,271],"sivoia-qs","battery-life","wireless-shades",29161,"2022-11-16T14:39:19.108936","2023-02-13T21:39:19.108936","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002F4cf00cedc95d234aa76ecd82ab5e170f\u002F1024\u002F768","Hey everyone, I'm hoping to get some advice on an issue I've been experiencing with my Sivoia QS wireless battery-powered shades. I had a full home installation done about 18 months ago - we have 12 shades total across our main living areas, all controlled through our RadioRA 3 system.\n\nThe problem I'm running into is that the battery life seems wildly inconsistent across the shades, and some are draining much faster than what I was told to expect during the sales process. My integrator originally said I should expect 3-5 years of battery life with normal use, but I've already had to replace batteries in 4 of my shades, and a couple others are showing low battery warnings in the app.\n\nHere's what's confusing me: the shades that are dying fastest aren't necessarily the ones we use most often. For example, we have two nearly identical shades in our master bedroom that get used the same amount (once in the morning, once at evening via timeclock events), but one shade needed new batteries at 14 months while the other is still showing full battery. Meanwhile, a shade in our guest room that barely gets used maybe once a month also needed replacement already.\n\nI've been trying to figure out what could be causing this. A few things I've considered:\n\n1. Are some shades working harder due to slight misalignment or friction issues? The shades all seem to operate smoothly though.\n\n2. Could there be RF communication issues causing some shades to constantly retry connections and drain power? I do have the shades integrated with my Control4 system through the Lutron integration.\n\n3. Is it possible I just got some bad battery packs? The D-cell packs aren't cheap at around $50-60 each, so this is getting expensive.\n\n4. Temperature variations? Some of the problematic shades are near exterior walls, but my home is well insulated and climate controlled.\n\nI'm also curious about the replacement batteries - should I be using the official Lutron battery packs, or can I use quality third-party D-cells and get similar results? The official packs use Duracell cells anyway from what I can tell.\n\nFor those of you with larger Sivoia QS wireless installations, what kind of battery life are you actually seeing in real-world conditions? Is 18 months normal, or do I have something wrong with my setup that's causing excessive drain? Any diagnostic steps I should take before calling my integrator back out?\n\nThanks in advance for any insights. Really love the shades otherwise - the quiet operation and precise positioning are fantastic - just frustrated with the battery situation.",[1061,1064,1067,1071,1074,1077,1080,1083,1086,1089],{"id":123,"author":419,"author_avatar":420,"created_at":1062,"vote_count":429,"is_accepted":25,"body":1063},"2022-12-02T14:39:19.108936","The inconsistent battery life across similar shades is a red flag that points to RF issues rather than mechanical problems. When a shade has poor signal strength to the main repeater or processor, it will repeatedly attempt to communicate and report status, which absolutely hammers the batteries. I'd start by checking signal strength in the Lutron app for each shade - anything below 3 bars is a potential problem.",{"id":13,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":1065,"vote_count":11,"is_accepted":25,"body":1066},"2022-12-17T14:39:19.108936","Had the exact same issue in my install. Turned out two of my shades were positioned where they had marginal RF coverage. Added a single auxiliary repeater and my battery life normalized across all units. Those shades went from 12-month battery life to now going on 3+ years.",{"id":238,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":1068,"vote_count":1069,"is_accepted":12,"body":1070},"2022-12-23T14:39:19.108936",54,"Professional integrator here. A few things to check:\n\nFirst, verify your firmware is current on all shade controllers - there were some updates a while back that improved power management. Second, check if the problematic shades are doing excessive position reporting. If your Control4 integration is polling shade positions frequently, that can cause significant battery drain.\n\nThe fact that your guest room shade is dying despite low usage strongly suggests a communication issue. That shade is probably constantly trying to check in with the system. Use the Lutron diagnostic tools to look at the communication logs if you can.\n\nRegarding third-party batteries - technically you can use quality D-cells, but the Lutron packs are configured in a specific way and include the proper connector. Most clients I work with just buy the official packs to avoid any warranty complications. The cost difference over 3-5 years isn't that significant when you factor in the hassle.",{"id":242,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":1072,"vote_count":632,"is_accepted":25,"body":1073},"2023-01-19T14:39:19.108936","Check your Control4 driver settings. Some older versions of the Lutron driver were notorious for excessive polling. Make sure you're using the official driver and that status polling is set to reasonable intervals.",{"id":229,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"created_at":1075,"vote_count":350,"is_accepted":25,"body":1076},"2023-01-22T14:39:19.108936","I've been running Sivoia QS for 4 years now and consistently get 4+ years on batteries. The RF coverage point others mentioned is huge - definitely worth investigating.",{"id":254,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":1078,"vote_count":238,"is_accepted":25,"body":1079},"2023-01-27T14:39:19.108936","Thanks everyone! I checked the signal strength and sure enough, 3 of my problem shades are showing only 2 bars. The guest room shade is actually at 1 bar. Looks like I need to talk to my integrator about adding a repeater. Really appreciate the diagnostic tips!",{"id":217,"author":239,"author_avatar":240,"created_at":1081,"vote_count":254,"is_accepted":25,"body":1082},"2023-02-05T14:39:19.108936","Just to add - the auxiliary repeaters are pretty affordable and one can cover a lot of area. Your integrator should have mentioned this during the initial design phase honestly. Proper RF planning is critical for battery-powered devices.",{"id":11,"author":282,"author_avatar":283,"created_at":1084,"vote_count":154,"is_accepted":25,"body":1085},"2023-02-11T14:39:19.108936","One more thing to consider - if any of your shades are in direct sunlight for extended periods, the internal electronics can get warm and that does affect battery chemistry over time. Not usually a dramatic effect, but combined with marginal RF it could accelerate the drain. I have blackout shades on south-facing windows specifically to protect my Sivoia shades in other rooms from excessive heat buildup when closed.",{"id":441,"author":308,"author_avatar":309,"created_at":1087,"vote_count":216,"is_accepted":25,"body":1088},"2023-02-13T14:39:19.108936","The repeater will definitely help. Also make sure your main processor isn't in a closet or behind a bunch of equipment that could attenuate the signal.",{"id":297,"author":353,"author_avatar":354,"created_at":1057,"vote_count":83,"is_accepted":25,"body":356},{"id":1091,"title":1092,"tags":1093,"view_count":1098,"vote_count":1099,"answer_count":297,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":238,"created_at":1100,"last_activity_at":1101,"thumbnail_url":1102,"is_technical":12,"has_solution_keywords":12,"related_thread_id":17,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"body":1103,"replies":1104},"1","Best practices for integrating Lutron Caséta with Control4 in a large luxury home",[196,1094,271,1095,1096,1097],"lutron-caséta","system-integration","luxury-home-automation","hybrid-lighting-control",24776,65,"2022-11-01T13:40:32.717858","2023-01-29T13:40:32.717858","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002F3873b06fc0fc999b920d2ccea8c3e4e4\u002F1024\u002F768","Hello everyone,\n\nI'm in the process of working with my integrator on a large luxury home project (approximately 12,000 sq ft) and we're trying to finalize our lighting and automation strategy. The home will have Control4 as the primary automation backbone, but we're strongly considering Lutron Caséta for a significant portion of the lighting control, particularly in secondary spaces like guest bedrooms, bathrooms, and utility areas.\n\nThe reasoning behind this hybrid approach is primarily budget-driven. We have RadioRA 3 spec'd for the main living areas, home theater, and master suite, but extending that throughout the entire home would push us significantly over budget. Our integrator suggested Caséta as a cost-effective solution for the remaining zones, but I'm concerned about how seamlessly this will integrate with Control4.\n\nSpecifically, I have several questions I'm hoping the community can help address:\n\n1. **Integration reliability**: How stable is the Caséta-to-Control4 integration in real-world deployments? I've read that it uses the Lutron Smart Bridge Pro, but I'm curious about latency and whether scenes trigger reliably when called from Control4.\n\n2. **Scene coordination**: We want whole-home \"Goodnight\" and \"Away\" scenes that include both the RadioRA 3 zones and the Caséta zones. Is this something that works smoothly, or are there timing issues where different systems respond at noticeably different speeds?\n\n3. **Keypad consistency**: One concern my wife raised is having different keypad aesthetics throughout the home. The Caséta Pico remotes look quite different from the RadioRA 3 seeTouch keypads. Has anyone found creative solutions for maintaining visual consistency while using this hybrid approach?\n\n4. **Scalability concerns**: We're looking at approximately 45-50 Caséta devices. I know the Smart Bridge Pro supports up to 75 devices, but I'm wondering if anyone has experienced performance degradation as you approach that limit.\n\n5. **Future considerations**: If we decide to upgrade the Caséta zones to RadioRA 3 in the future, how painful is that migration? Would the Control4 programming need to be completely redone, or is it relatively straightforward?\n\nOur integrator is experienced with Control4 but admits they've done more RadioRA 2 Select and RA3 integrations than Caséta hybrids at this scale. Any real-world insights from integrators or homeowners who have lived with this type of setup would be incredibly valuable.\n\nBudget is obviously a factor, but reliability and wife-acceptance factor are paramount. We're willing to spend more if the hybrid approach introduces significant compromises to the user experience.\n\nThanks in advance for any guidance!",[1105,1108,1111,1114,1117,1120,1122,1125,1128,1131],{"id":123,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":1106,"vote_count":263,"is_accepted":25,"body":1107},"2022-11-09T13:40:32.717858","I've deployed this exact hybrid configuration in several luxury homes and can offer some insights. The Caséta integration via the Smart Bridge Pro is actually quite solid - latency is typically under 500ms which is acceptable for most use cases. The key is ensuring your Control4 driver is properly configured and that you're using the Lutron LEAP protocol. For whole-home scenes, I typically add a 200-300ms delay between system calls to prevent network congestion, and this has eliminated any synchronization issues we initially experienced.",{"id":13,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":1109,"vote_count":297,"is_accepted":25,"body":1110},"2022-12-05T13:40:32.717858","The aesthetic concern is real. Pico remotes next to seeTouch keypads is jarring in a luxury setting. Consider using Caséta only in spaces where you won't have visible keypads, relying on Control4 touchscreens or app control instead.",{"id":238,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":1112,"vote_count":871,"is_accepted":12,"body":1113},"2022-12-12T13:40:32.717858","I run a similar setup in my home with about 35 Caséta devices alongside RadioRA 2 Select in the main areas. The Control4 integration has been rock solid for three years now. One thing I'll mention - make sure your integrator uses the official Lutron driver from the Control4 dealer portal, not a third-party alternative. The official driver handles status updates much better and supports bidirectional communication properly. Scene coordination works great once you understand that Control4 is the \"brain\" and Lutron systems are just endpoints. Your Goodnight scene in Control4 will fire commands to both systems essentially simultaneously, and any perceived delay is negligible in practice.",{"id":242,"author":300,"author_avatar":301,"created_at":1115,"vote_count":413,"is_accepted":25,"body":1116},"2022-12-14T13:40:32.717858","Are you also doing shades? If so, that's another consideration for the Caséta vs RA3 decision. Caséta Serena shades are good but RA3 gives you much better precision control and quieter motors in the Palladiom line.",{"id":229,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":1118,"vote_count":297,"is_accepted":25,"body":1119},"2022-12-22T13:40:32.717858","Thanks for the responses so far! @SmartShadeMaster - yes, we have motorized shades planned for about 60% of the windows. The main living areas and master will definitely get Palladiom, but we were considering Serena for the guest rooms. Is the quality difference that noticeable?",{"id":254,"author":282,"author_avatar":283,"created_at":1118,"vote_count":329,"is_accepted":25,"body":1121},"The Palladiom shades are whisper quiet and the precision stopping is noticeably better. That said, Serena shades are perfectly fine for guest bedrooms where they won't see daily heavy use. Your guests won't complain about Serena quality - it's only when you have both side by side that you notice the premium feel of Palladiom.",{"id":217,"author":255,"author_avatar":256,"created_at":1123,"vote_count":146,"is_accepted":25,"body":1124},"2023-01-04T13:40:32.717858","Regarding your scalability question - I've seen systems with 60+ Caséta devices running fine on a single Smart Bridge Pro. The 75-device limit is more about the Clear Connect RF protocol capacity than processing power. Just make sure you have good bridge placement for RF coverage in a 12k sq ft home. You might actually need two bridges for coverage reasons before you hit device limits.",{"id":11,"author":308,"author_avatar":309,"created_at":1126,"vote_count":254,"is_accepted":25,"body":1127},"2023-01-13T13:40:32.717858","One thing nobody has mentioned yet - think carefully about which spaces truly need local physical control versus app\u002Fvoice control. In a luxury home, many secondary spaces like utility rooms, storage areas, and even some bathrooms might be fine with just occupancy sensors and app control. This could reduce your Caséta device count significantly and let you reallocate budget to RA3 in more visible areas. I've seen clients over-spec switch counts when smart occupancy control would actually provide a better experience.",{"id":441,"author":239,"author_avatar":240,"created_at":1129,"vote_count":293,"is_accepted":25,"body":1130},"2023-01-24T13:40:32.717858","Have you considered RadioRA 2 Select as a middle ground? It's closer aesthetically to RA3, integrates identically with Control4, and costs less than RA3 while looking more premium than Caséta. Might be worth getting a quote comparison.",{"id":297,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":1101,"vote_count":134,"is_accepted":25,"body":1132},"Great suggestion @Ra2SelectUser - I'll ask our integrator about RA2 Select pricing. The aesthetic consistency might be worth the premium over Caséta. @Control4Enthusiast - really helpful info about the official driver, I'll make sure that's what gets used. Feeling much better about this hybrid approach now!",{"id":1134,"title":1135,"tags":1136,"view_count":1140,"vote_count":201,"answer_count":11,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":13,"created_at":1141,"last_activity_at":1142,"thumbnail_url":1143,"is_technical":25,"has_solution_keywords":12,"related_thread_id":17,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"body":1144,"replies":1145},"39","Custom engraving options on Lutron keypads",[115,1137,271,269,1138,1139],"keypad-engraving","seetouch","custom-buttons",24793,"2022-09-25T14:54:14.270969","2022-12-17T14:54:14.270969","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002F1f33e978989493750d6055ca8759fb56\u002F1024\u002F768","I'm in the middle of a whole-home Lutron RadioRA 3 installation and want to add custom engraving to my seeTouch keypads. I've seen some beautiful examples online with homeowner names, room labels, and even small icons etched into the buttons.\n\nMy questions are:\n1. Does Lutron offer official engraving services, or is this typically done through third parties?\n2. What's the turnaround time and approximate cost per keypad?\n3. Are there limitations on font choices or the ability to add custom graphics\u002Ficons?\n4. For those who've done this - any regrets or things you wish you'd done differently?\n\nI'm planning to have about 12 keypads throughout the house, mostly 6-button configurations. Some will be simple scene labels (Relax, Entertain, Good Night, etc.) but I'd also love to have some custom icons for things like the home theater and pool controls.\n\nAlso curious if anyone has experience with the Palladiom keypads and engraving options there - we're considering upgrading a few high-visibility locations to those for the premium look.\n\nThanks in advance for any guidance!",[1146,1149,1152,1155,1158,1160,1163,1166],{"id":123,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":1147,"vote_count":122,"is_accepted":25,"body":1148},"2022-09-28T14:54:14.270969","Lutron absolutely offers official engraving through their myLutron portal. Your dealer places the order and you can customize fonts, text, and select from their icon library. Turnaround is usually 2-3 weeks depending on volume. Cost runs about $15-25 per button depending on complexity.",{"id":13,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":1150,"vote_count":953,"is_accepted":12,"body":1151},"2022-10-03T14:54:14.270969","We do custom engraving on almost every project. A few tips from years of experience:\n\n1. Always order a few extra blank buttons - clients inevitably want changes after living with the system\n2. Keep text SHORT - \"Movie\" is better than \"Home Theater Mode\"\n3. Lutron's standard icon library is actually quite extensive, but for truly custom graphics you'll need to work with their design team which adds time and cost\n4. For Palladiom, the engraving process is different and more expensive due to the metal finish, but the results are stunning\n5. Consider future-proofing - generic labels like \"Scene 1\" are less elegant but more flexible than \"John's Reading Light\"\n\nBudget roughly $200-400 per keypad for full custom engraving on seeTouch, more for Palladiom.",{"id":238,"author":282,"author_avatar":283,"created_at":1153,"vote_count":386,"is_accepted":25,"body":1154},"2022-10-15T14:54:14.270969","The Palladiom engraving is next level. We have them in our main living areas and the laser-etched metal buttons look incredible. Expect to pay a premium though - ours ran about $75 per button.",{"id":242,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":1156,"vote_count":188,"is_accepted":25,"body":1157},"2022-10-24T14:54:14.270969","Not to derail, but have you considered keypads with small LCD screens instead? More flexible for future changes without re-ordering buttons.",{"id":229,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":1156,"vote_count":177,"is_accepted":25,"body":1159},"Thanks everyone! @HighEndIntegrator that's exactly the detailed info I needed. The tip about ordering extra blanks is gold - I hadn't thought about that. @Control4Enthusiast I did consider LCD options but prefer the clean aesthetic of engraved buttons for this project.",{"id":254,"author":261,"author_avatar":262,"created_at":1161,"vote_count":285,"is_accepted":25,"body":1162},"2022-11-14T14:54:14.270969","One thing to add - make sure your integrator shows you physical samples of the font options before committing. What looks good on screen doesn't always translate well to small button engravings. The bolder sans-serif options tend to be most legible.",{"id":217,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"created_at":1164,"vote_count":632,"is_accepted":25,"body":1165},"2022-12-07T14:54:14.270969","Is the engraving only available through dealers or can homeowners order directly?",{"id":11,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":1142,"vote_count":293,"is_accepted":25,"body":1167},"Dealer only unfortunately. The myLutron design portal requires dealer credentials. Some dealers will let you sit with them while they place the order so you can see all the options in real-time.",{"id":1169,"title":1170,"tags":1171,"view_count":1173,"vote_count":379,"answer_count":11,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":123,"created_at":1174,"last_activity_at":1175,"thumbnail_url":1176,"is_technical":12,"has_solution_keywords":12,"related_thread_id":17,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"body":1177,"replies":1178},"8","HomeWorks QS vs RadioRA 3 for new construction",[534,271,537,1172,318,536],"control4-integration",31543,"2022-09-24T14:38:07.805556","2022-12-23T02:38:07.805556","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002F448905f46eec4824e8e419bd6d0aec99\u002F1024\u002F768","We're about to break ground on a 6,500 sq ft new construction home and I'm trying to decide between Lutron HomeWorks QS and RadioRA 3 for our lighting control system. The house will have approximately 85 lighting zones, motorized shades throughout (probably 30+ shade zones), and we want integration with a Control4 system for whole-home automation.\n\nI've gotten quotes from two different integrators - one is strongly recommending HomeWorks QS saying it's the only real choice for a home this size, while the other says RadioRA 3 has come a long way and would save us about $25-30K on the project while still delivering excellent performance.\n\nMy main concerns are:\n1. Reliability and longevity - we plan to be in this home for 20+ years\n2. Flexibility for future expansion\n3. Quality of the keypads and user interface\n4. Integration capabilities with Control4 and other systems\n\nI understand HomeWorks is the flagship system, but is the price premium really justified for a residential application? Or has RadioRA 3 closed the gap enough that it makes sense to save the money and put it toward other smart home features?\n\nWould love to hear from integrators and homeowners who have experience with both systems. Thanks in advance!",[1179,1182,1185,1188,1191,1194,1197,1201],{"id":123,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":1180,"vote_count":1099,"is_accepted":12,"body":1181},"2022-10-02T14:38:07.805556","At 85 zones with 30+ shades and Control4 integration, I'd lean toward HomeWorks QS without hesitation. The processor-based architecture gives you much better centralized control and diagnostic capabilities. RadioRA 3 is excellent, but it's still fundamentally a distributed system that can get complicated at this scale. The Palladiom keypads alone are worth considering - nothing in RA3 touches that aesthetic. Yes, it's more money, but for a 20+ year investment in a home that size, the additional cost per year is minimal. HomeWorks also has superior telnet integration with Control4, making programming cleaner.",{"id":13,"author":239,"author_avatar":240,"created_at":1183,"vote_count":263,"is_accepted":25,"body":1184},"2022-10-11T14:38:07.805556","I have RadioRA 3 in my 4,000 sq ft home and it's been flawless. That said, your project is significantly larger than what I'd typically recommend RA3 for. The 85 zone count is pushing it.",{"id":238,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":1186,"vote_count":258,"is_accepted":25,"body":1187},"2022-10-27T14:38:07.805556","HomeWorks QS all the way for new construction at this level. You're already spending serious money on the build - don't cheap out on the lighting control backbone. The QSX processor gives you room to grow and the integration with shades is seamless.",{"id":242,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":1189,"vote_count":123,"is_accepted":25,"body":1190},"2022-10-28T14:38:07.805556","From a Control4 integration perspective, both work well, but HomeWorks provides a more elegant integration. The driver support is mature and you get real-time feedback on all zones without any polling delays. I've done projects with both and the HomeWorks jobs just feel more responsive and polished when controlling from the C4 interface.",{"id":229,"author":282,"author_avatar":283,"created_at":1192,"vote_count":441,"is_accepted":25,"body":1193},"2022-11-11T14:38:07.805556","We went HomeWorks in our new build three years ago and have zero regrets. The Palladiom keypads in our main living areas are stunning - guests always comment on them. The system has been rock solid with not a single failure. Our integrator can remotely diagnose any issues instantly. Worth every penny for the peace of mind alone.",{"id":254,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"created_at":1195,"vote_count":441,"is_accepted":25,"body":1196},"2022-11-18T14:38:07.805556","Just to play devil's advocate - $25-30K is real money. Have you considered RA3 for the bulk of the house and HomeWorks just in the main entertaining areas where you want the premium keypads?",{"id":217,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":1198,"vote_count":1199,"is_accepted":25,"body":1200},"2022-12-22T14:38:07.805556",32,"Mixing systems is generally a bad idea. You lose the unified programming environment and create more complexity for future service. Pick one and stick with it.",{"id":11,"author":353,"author_avatar":354,"created_at":1175,"vote_count":258,"is_accepted":25,"body":356},{"id":1203,"title":1204,"tags":1205,"view_count":1209,"vote_count":355,"answer_count":11,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":13,"created_at":1210,"last_activity_at":1211,"thumbnail_url":1212,"is_technical":12,"has_solution_keywords":25,"related_thread_id":17,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"body":1213,"replies":1214},"24","Control4 EA-5 running warm with many Lutron devices",[196,1206,452,1207,1208,1095],"ea-5","processor-heat","rack-cooling",13392,"2022-09-18T14:46:36.113921","2022-12-05T22:46:36.113921","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002F34d4b1e98fe368f7a815543fa79ebaa4\u002F1024\u002F768","I've had my Control4 EA-5 installed for about 6 months now and recently noticed it's running noticeably warm to the touch. The system is controlling a fairly large Lutron RadioRA 3 installation - we have 47 dimmers, 12 Picos, and 8 Sivoia QS shades all integrated via the Lutron Connect bridge.\n\nThe EA-5 is mounted in a Middle Atlantic rack in our mechanical room with decent ventilation, but I'm wondering if this heat level is normal or if something is off. The processor seems responsive and everything works fine, but I've read that excessive heat can shorten the lifespan of these units.\n\nA few specifics:\n- Room ambient temp is around 72°F\n- The EA-5 has 1U of space above and below it\n- We also have two EA-1 controllers for other zones\n- The system runs about 15 lighting scenes that get triggered throughout the day via schedules\n\nIs anyone else running a similar setup with heavy Lutron integration? Should I be concerned about the warmth, or is this just the nature of the beast with larger Control4 installations? I'm also curious if adding any additional cooling would help or if it's overkill. My dealer mentioned it's probably fine but I wanted to get some real-world feedback from others running comparable systems.",[1215,1218,1221,1224,1227,1230,1233,1236],{"id":123,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":1216,"vote_count":188,"is_accepted":25,"body":1217},"2022-09-25T14:46:36.113921","EA-5s do run warm by design - they're passively cooled. With 47 Lutron devices polling regularly, that's a lot of communication happening. As long as it's not hot to the point of being uncomfortable to touch, you're probably fine.",{"id":13,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":1219,"vote_count":355,"is_accepted":12,"body":1220},"2022-10-02T14:46:36.113921","Professional integrator here with hundreds of EA-5 installs under my belt. What you're describing sounds completely normal for a system of that size. The EA-5 has a rated operating temperature range up to 104°F ambient, so your 72°F room is well within spec.\n\nThat said, there are a few things I always recommend for larger installations. First, make sure your Lutron polling interval isn't set too aggressively - the default is usually fine but some dealers crank it up unnecessarily. Second, verify your rack has proper airflow and isn't in a confined cabinet. Third, consider adding a small AC Infinity fan kit to your rack if you want peace of mind. It's not required but can drop temps by 10-15 degrees and the units are whisper quiet.",{"id":238,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":1222,"vote_count":201,"is_accepted":25,"body":1223},"2022-10-30T14:46:36.113921","47 dimmers is a solid installation! The RadioRA 3 integration is pretty efficient compared to the old RA2 days. I wouldn't worry unless you're seeing actual performance issues.",{"id":242,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"created_at":1225,"vote_count":632,"is_accepted":25,"body":1226},"2022-11-09T14:46:36.113921","I have a similar setup with an EA-3 and about 30 Lutron devices. Mine runs warm too. I added one of those small USB-powered fans from Amazon and it made a noticeable difference. Cost me like $25.",{"id":229,"author":308,"author_avatar":309,"created_at":1228,"vote_count":263,"is_accepted":25,"body":1229},"2022-11-10T14:46:36.113921","Have you checked the processor diagnostics in Composer? There's a system health section that shows CPU temp and load. That would give you actual numbers to work with rather than guessing based on touch. Your dealer should be able to pull those metrics remotely if you don't have Composer HE access.",{"id":254,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":1231,"vote_count":1199,"is_accepted":25,"body":1232},"2022-11-26T14:46:36.113921","Thanks everyone! I reached out to my dealer and he pulled the diagnostics - CPU is sitting around 145°F under normal operation which he said is well within normal range. Going to grab one of those AC Infinity fans anyway just for the extra margin. Appreciate the help!",{"id":217,"author":419,"author_avatar":420,"created_at":1234,"vote_count":154,"is_accepted":25,"body":1235},"2022-12-05T14:46:36.113921","145°F is totally normal for an EA-5 under load. Good call on the fan though - cheap insurance for expensive equipment.",{"id":11,"author":353,"author_avatar":354,"created_at":1211,"vote_count":511,"is_accepted":25,"body":356},{"id":1238,"title":1239,"tags":1240,"view_count":1244,"vote_count":346,"answer_count":297,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":13,"created_at":1245,"last_activity_at":1246,"thumbnail_url":1247,"is_technical":12,"has_solution_keywords":12,"related_thread_id":17,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"body":1248,"replies":1249},"28","Lutron Serena shades long-term review",[1241,536,1242,273,1243,453],"lutron-serena","long-term-review","caseta-integration",28890,"2022-08-17T14:48:37.040934","2022-11-04T19:48:37.040934","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002F6f0329503a567161ecb78491d83fcf68\u002F1024\u002F768","I've had Lutron Serena shades installed throughout my home for just over three years now, and I wanted to share my long-term experience for anyone considering this investment. When I first started researching motorized shades, I was overwhelmed by the options - from budget Chinese imports to ultra-premium solutions. I ultimately went with Serena because of the Lutron reputation and the fact that they work natively with my Caseta system without requiring a separate hub.\n\nMy setup includes 12 shades total: 6 roller shades in the main living areas, 4 cellular shades in the bedrooms, and 2 wood blinds in the home office. The initial investment was significant - around $8,500 including professional measurement and installation through a local dealer.\n\nThe good: Battery life has been exceptional. I'm averaging about 2.5 years per set of batteries with daily use (open in morning, close at sunset). The quiet operation is remarkable - my wife initially wanted traditional shades because she thought motorized would be noisy, but these are whisper quiet. Integration with Caseta and later HomeKit has been flawless. I can trigger shades with Pico remotes, voice commands, geofencing, or time-based schedules. The build quality feels premium and the fabric options were extensive.\n\nThe not-so-good: I've had two shades develop motor issues around the 2.5 year mark. One started making a clicking sound during operation, and another would occasionally stop mid-travel. Lutron warranty support was excellent and both were replaced, but it was a hassle dealing with the 3-4 week turnaround time. Also, the app can be sluggish sometimes, though direct control via Pico remotes is instant.\n\nOne thing I didn't anticipate was fabric fading. The south-facing roller shades have noticeably lighter spots where sun hits directly. This might be expected with any shade, but at this price point I was hoping for better UV resistance.\n\nOverall, would I buy them again? Probably yes, but I'd also seriously consider the RadioRA 2 Select compatible Sivoia shades if I were doing a larger project, since the price difference isn't as dramatic as I initially thought and you get commercial-grade components.\n\nFor anyone on the fence about Serena specifically - they're a solid prosumer choice that bridges the gap between DIY and full custom integration. Just go in with realistic expectations about the premium you're paying for the Lutron ecosystem lock-in.\n\nCurious to hear from others with long-term Serena experience. Has anyone else dealt with motor failures or fabric issues? And for those who've compared Serena to Sivoia QS, is the upgrade worth it for a residential application?",[1250,1253,1257,1260,1263,1266,1269,1272,1275,1278],{"id":123,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":1251,"vote_count":346,"is_accepted":25,"body":1252},"2022-09-13T14:48:37.040934","Great write-up! I've had 8 Serena shades for about 4 years now. Battery life matches your experience almost exactly. Haven't had any motor failures yet, knock on wood. The fabric fading is real though - my west-facing shades show it too.",{"id":13,"author":419,"author_avatar":420,"created_at":1254,"vote_count":1255,"is_accepted":12,"body":1256},"2022-09-23T14:48:37.040934",61,"The motor issues you described are actually pretty common in the earlier Serena generations. Lutron quietly updated the motor assembly around 2021-2022. If your replacements were recent, you likely got the improved version which should be more reliable. Regarding Sivoia QS vs Serena - for residential the main advantages are hardwired power option, slightly faster operation, and better integration with RadioRA 3 and HomeWorks. Unless you're doing a new construction where you can run low voltage wiring, Serena makes more sense for retrofits. The Sivoia premium is about 40-60% more depending on fabric and size, which is hard to justify unless you need the hardwired reliability for a large deployment.",{"id":238,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":1258,"vote_count":122,"is_accepted":25,"body":1259},"2022-10-03T14:48:37.040934","Interesting timing on this post. I'm speccing out a project right now and debating between Serena and going with a Control4 dealer for their shade options. The ecosystem integration is my main concern.",{"id":242,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":1261,"vote_count":425,"is_accepted":25,"body":1262},"2022-10-07T14:48:37.040934","As someone who installs both Serena and Sivoia professionally, I can confirm the motor update that ShadeControlExpert mentioned. We saw a noticeable drop in warranty claims after mid-2021. For fabric fading, I always recommend clients go with the blackout or room-darkening fabrics on sun-exposed windows - they tend to hold up better than the light filtering options. Also worth noting that Lutron's fabric warranty is separate from the motor warranty, so check what coverage you have there.",{"id":229,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"created_at":1264,"vote_count":201,"is_accepted":25,"body":1265},"2022-10-21T14:48:37.040934","2.5 years on batteries is impressive! I'm only getting about 18 months on my bedroom shades but they're the larger 72\" width ones. Anyone know if shade size significantly impacts battery drain?",{"id":254,"author":239,"author_avatar":240,"created_at":1267,"vote_count":346,"is_accepted":25,"body":1268},"2022-10-26T14:48:37.040934","Size definitely matters for battery life. Larger shades have heavier fabric rolls and the motor works harder. My 36\" shades last forever but the 60\"+ ones need batteries more frequently. Also depends on how often you're cycling them - my kids' rooms get way more use than the guest room.",{"id":217,"author":282,"author_avatar":283,"created_at":1270,"vote_count":242,"is_accepted":25,"body":1271},"2022-10-31T14:48:37.040934","Coming from the high-end side with Palladiom throughout my main residence, I actually have Serena in my vacation home. For the money, Serena punches well above its weight. The Palladiom shades are objectively better in every measurable way - quieter, faster, more precise positioning, better build quality - but we're talking 3-4x the price. For most residential applications where you're not entertaining clients or need absolute perfection, Serena is the sweet spot. Your $8,500 for 12 shades would barely cover 3-4 Palladiom units.",{"id":11,"author":308,"author_avatar":309,"created_at":1273,"vote_count":134,"is_accepted":25,"body":1274},"2022-11-02T14:48:37.040934","Thanks for the honest review. The fabric fading issue is something Lutron really should address in their marketing. At premium prices, customers expect premium durability.",{"id":441,"author":261,"author_avatar":262,"created_at":1276,"vote_count":1199,"is_accepted":25,"body":1277},"2022-11-04T14:48:37.040934","One tip for the OP and others - if you're seeing fabric degradation, contact Lutron directly rather than going through your dealer. I've had clients get replacement fabric at significant discounts when they documented the fading with photos. Lutron seems to handle these on a case-by-case basis but they're generally reasonable about it. Also, for anyone planning new installations, consider the shade orientation during the design phase. Sometimes repositioning furniture or adding a UV film to windows is cheaper long-term than replacing faded shade fabric every few years.",{"id":297,"author":353,"author_avatar":354,"created_at":1246,"vote_count":429,"is_accepted":25,"body":356},{"id":1280,"title":1281,"tags":1282,"view_count":1287,"vote_count":321,"answer_count":201,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":13,"created_at":1288,"last_activity_at":1289,"thumbnail_url":1290,"is_technical":12,"has_solution_keywords":12,"related_thread_id":17,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"body":1291,"replies":1292},"20","Caséta Smart Bridge Pro vs standard bridge",[1283,1284,115,1285,1286,317],"caseta","smart-bridge-pro","home-assistant","hubitat",15279,"2022-07-28T14:44:40.082870","2022-10-24T02:44:40.082870","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002F2da350853ca59fcbc1d357a003bed1e1\u002F1024\u002F768","Hey everyone, I'm in the process of planning out my smart lighting setup and I've hit a bit of a decision point that I'm hoping some of you more experienced folks can help me with. I'm looking at the Lutron Caséta system and I'm trying to understand the real-world differences between the Smart Bridge Pro (L-BDGPRO2-WH) and the standard Smart Bridge (L-BDG2-WH).\n\nFrom what I've gathered online, the main differences seem to be around integration capabilities. The Pro version apparently supports Telnet\u002FIP integration, works with more third-party systems, and can handle a larger number of devices (75 vs 50). But I'm having trouble figuring out if these differences actually matter for my use case.\n\nMy setup is going to be relatively modest to start - probably around 20-25 switches and dimmers throughout the house, plus maybe 8-10 Pico remotes. I have a Hubitat hub that I'd like to integrate with, and I'm also running Home Assistant on a Raspberry Pi for some other automations. Eventually, I might want to add some Serena shades, but that's probably a year or two down the road.\n\nThe price difference isn't huge (looks like about $80-100 more for the Pro), but I also don't want to pay for features I'll never use. On the flip side, I've been burned before by buying the \"cheaper\" version of something and then regretting it later when I wanted to expand.\n\nSome specific questions I have:\n\n1. For Hubitat integration, does it matter which bridge I get? I've seen conflicting information about whether the standard bridge works well with Hubitat or if you really need the Pro.\n\n2. Same question for Home Assistant - is there a meaningful difference in how the two bridges integrate?\n\n3. The 75 vs 50 device limit - does this count Pico remotes as devices? If I end up with 25 switches plus 10 Picos, am I already at 35 devices and potentially running into the standard bridge's limit sooner than I think?\n\n4. Is there any difference in reliability or response time between the two bridges? I've seen some old forum posts suggesting the Pro might be faster, but those were from several years ago.\n\n5. For those who started with the standard bridge and later upgraded to Pro - was it worth it? What made you switch?\n\nI know this might seem like overthinking a relatively small purchase, but I'd rather get it right the first time. The last thing I want is to have 30+ devices installed and then realize I need to migrate everything to a new bridge. Thanks in advance for any insights you can share!",[1293,1296,1299,1302,1304,1307,1310,1313,1316,1319,1322],{"id":123,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":1294,"vote_count":413,"is_accepted":25,"body":1295},"2022-08-02T14:44:40.082870","Get the Pro. Just do it. The Telnet integration alone is worth the extra cost if you're running Home Assistant or Hubitat. You'll thank yourself later.",{"id":13,"author":255,"author_avatar":256,"created_at":1297,"vote_count":547,"is_accepted":12,"body":1298},"2022-08-09T14:44:40.082870","To answer your specific questions: Yes, Pico remotes count toward the device limit. Each Pico is a device, each switch is a device, each shade is a device. So your 25 switches + 10 Picos = 35 devices. Sounds fine for the standard bridge, but once you start adding shades and expanding (and trust me, you will expand), you'll hit that 50 device limit faster than you think.\n\nFor Hubitat specifically, the Pro bridge offers native integration through the Lutron Integrator app which uses the Telnet connection. The standard bridge relies on cloud-based integration which introduces latency and potential reliability issues if Lutron's servers have problems. The Pro gives you local control which is much more responsive.\n\nHome Assistant is similar - the Lutron Caséta integration works with both bridges, but the Pro model allows for the direct IP-based connection that bypasses the cloud entirely. This means faster response times and continued operation even if your internet goes down.",{"id":238,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"created_at":1300,"vote_count":441,"is_accepted":25,"body":1301},"2022-08-13T14:44:40.082870","I started with the standard bridge about 3 years ago because I thought I'd only need a few switches. Now I have 47 devices and I'm sweating every time I want to add something new. Currently in the process of migrating to the Pro. Learn from my mistake!",{"id":242,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":1300,"vote_count":375,"is_accepted":25,"body":1303},"The Pro is really designed for integrators and prosumers who need that direct integration capability. If you're running Hubitat and Home Assistant, you're clearly in that prosumer category. The $80-100 premium is nothing compared to the headache of dealing with cloud latency or having to swap bridges later.",{"id":229,"author":300,"author_avatar":301,"created_at":1305,"vote_count":242,"is_accepted":25,"body":1306},"2022-08-25T14:44:40.082870","One thing nobody has mentioned yet - if you're planning on Serena shades, definitely go Pro. The shade integration and scene control is noticeably smoother with the direct Telnet connection. I manage shade automations for sunrise\u002Fsunset and the timing precision matters when you're trying to sync multiple shades across different rooms. With the standard bridge through cloud integration, I've seen delays of 1-3 seconds between shades that should be moving simultaneously. With the Pro, they move in perfect unison.",{"id":254,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":1308,"vote_count":386,"is_accepted":25,"body":1309},"2022-08-30T14:44:40.082870","This is exactly the kind of feedback I was hoping for. The local control aspect is really compelling - I didn't realize the standard bridge was cloud-dependent for third-party integrations. Quick follow-up: is the migration process painful if I did need to switch bridges later, or is it relatively straightforward?",{"id":217,"author":308,"author_avatar":309,"created_at":1311,"vote_count":429,"is_accepted":25,"body":1312},"2022-09-16T14:44:40.082870","Migration isn't terrible but it's not fun either. You have to factory reset all your devices and re-pair them to the new bridge. Then you need to recreate all your scenes, rooms, and schedules in the Lutron app. If you have a lot of devices, set aside a weekend. It's tedious but not technically difficult.",{"id":11,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":1314,"vote_count":154,"is_accepted":25,"body":1315},"2022-09-24T14:44:40.082870","As someone who installs these professionally, I always spec the Pro for any client who mentions they have or might want any kind of home automation hub. The standard bridge is really only appropriate for people who just want to use the Lutron app and maybe basic Alexa\u002FGoogle voice control. The moment you want real integration, the Pro is the answer. Also worth noting that the Pro supports integration with systems like Control4, Crestron, and Savant if you ever go that route in the future.",{"id":441,"author":239,"author_avatar":240,"created_at":1317,"vote_count":754,"is_accepted":25,"body":1318},"2022-10-04T14:44:40.082870","Just want to add that if you ever think you might outgrow Caséta entirely, RA2 Select uses the same Pro bridge. So your investment carries over if you decide to step up to that system later.",{"id":297,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":1320,"vote_count":134,"is_accepted":25,"body":1321},"2022-10-23T14:44:40.082870","Alright, you've all convinced me - Pro it is! Really appreciate the detailed responses, especially about the local control vs cloud integration difference. That alone seals the deal for me. Thanks everyone!",{"id":201,"author":353,"author_avatar":354,"created_at":1289,"vote_count":289,"is_accepted":25,"body":356},{"id":1324,"title":1325,"tags":1326,"view_count":1329,"vote_count":333,"answer_count":297,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":123,"created_at":1330,"last_activity_at":1331,"thumbnail_url":1332,"is_technical":25,"has_solution_keywords":12,"related_thread_id":17,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"body":1333,"replies":1334},"16","Luxury home theater lighting with Palladiom",[269,1327,1172,575,115,1328],"home-theater","luxury-automation",34286,"2022-07-15T14:41:57.059574","2022-09-28T14:41:57.059574","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002Ff8c2239dde526cde5a289a43340c15dc\u002F1024\u002F768","I'm in the process of building out a dedicated home theater in my new construction luxury home and I've been researching the Palladiom system extensively. The theater room is approximately 22x18 feet with a 10-foot ceiling, featuring a 150-inch acoustically transparent screen with a 4K laser projector. I want the lighting to be absolutely perfect for this space, and from what I've seen, the Palladiom keypads and dimmers seem to be the pinnacle of what Lutron offers for high-end residential applications.\n\nMy current plan includes the following lighting zones: main ceiling cans (8 total on two circuits), step lights along the risers (3 rows of seating), sconces on the side walls (6 total), rope lighting behind the screen for bias lighting, and star ceiling fiber optics. I'm also planning motorized blackout shades on two windows that will be on the side wall.\n\nWhat I'm struggling with is understanding the best way to program the scenes for a true cinema experience. I want a \"Movie Mode\" that dims everything appropriately when the projector fires up, but I also want intermediate scenes for when guests are arriving, during intermissions, and for when we're just using the room for casual TV watching or gaming.\n\nA few specific questions I have:\n\n1. For those of you with Palladiom in your theaters, how many scenes do you typically program? I've heard some people go overboard with 10+ scenes but then never use most of them.\n\n2. How do you handle the transition timing? I want the lights to fade elegantly when the movie starts, but I don't want it to take 30 seconds either. What fade times have you found work best?\n\n3. I'm planning to integrate with a Control4 system for the overall home automation. Has anyone done Palladiom + Control4 integration specifically for a theater? Any gotchas I should be aware of?\n\n4. For the bias lighting behind the screen, should this be on a Palladiom dimmer or would you recommend something else entirely? I've heard some people use separate LED controllers for more color temperature flexibility.\n\n5. Finally, is the Palladiom aesthetic worth the premium over RadioRA 3 for a dedicated theater where the keypads will be in a relatively dark room most of the time? My integrator is pushing Palladiom hard but I want to make sure I'm not just paying for the name.\n\nAppreciate any insights from those who have gone down this path. Budget isn't the primary concern here - I want to do this right the first time since it's much harder to change things after the fact.",[1335,1338,1341,1344,1346,1349,1352,1355,1358,1361],{"id":123,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":1336,"vote_count":145,"is_accepted":12,"body":1337},"2022-07-17T14:41:57.059574","Great questions and sounds like an amazing theater space! I've done probably 30+ Palladiom theater installations over the years. For scenes, I typically program 5-6 that actually get used: Full Bright (cleaning\u002Fmaintenance), Entrance (50% ambient for guests arriving), Pre-Show (20% with accent lighting), Movie (everything off except minimal step lights at 5% and bias lighting), Intermission (gentle 30% rise), and Exit (gradual full bright). The key is making them intuitive - most clients forget anything beyond 4-5 scenes exist.\n\nFor fade times, 3-4 seconds is the sweet spot for movie mode transitions. Long enough to feel elegant, short enough not to be annoying. Exit scenes I do at 6-8 seconds to let eyes adjust.\n\nPalladiom to Control4 integration is solid via the Lutron integration protocol. We use it all the time. The main gotcha is making sure your Control4 programmer understands the Lutron side - some are better than others.",{"id":13,"author":282,"author_avatar":283,"created_at":1339,"vote_count":494,"is_accepted":25,"body":1340},"2022-07-30T14:41:57.059574","I have Palladiom throughout my home including the theater. Honestly, in a dark theater room, the aesthetic premium is questionable. The keypads look stunning in hallways and living areas where you see them in good light. In my theater, I could have gone RadioRA 3 and been just as happy.",{"id":238,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":1342,"vote_count":188,"is_accepted":25,"body":1343},"2022-07-31T14:41:57.059574","The Control4 integration works flawlessly in my experience. Make sure you're using the proper Lutron driver and have your dealer set up the integration bridge correctly. One tip: program your scenes in the Lutron system first, then trigger them from Control4 rather than trying to control individual zones from C4. It's more reliable and keeps the lighting logic where it belongs.",{"id":242,"author":261,"author_avatar":262,"created_at":1342,"vote_count":134,"is_accepted":25,"body":1345},"For bias lighting, I'd actually recommend keeping it OFF the Palladiom system and using a dedicated tunable white LED controller. The reason is you'll want to adjust color temperature based on content - warmer for movies, cooler for sports or gaming. A 6500K bias light is ideal for color-critical viewing but feels cold for casual use. Something like the Ketra system integrates beautifully if budget allows, or even a quality DMX controller gives you more flexibility than a standard dimmer ever will.",{"id":229,"author":300,"author_avatar":301,"created_at":1347,"vote_count":123,"is_accepted":25,"body":1348},"2022-08-24T14:41:57.059574","Don't forget about your shade integration timing! I'd program the blackout shades to close as part of your Movie Mode scene, starting about 2 seconds before the lights begin dimming. Creates a more theatrical sequential effect.",{"id":254,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":1350,"vote_count":11,"is_accepted":25,"body":1351},"2022-08-28T14:41:57.059574","These responses are incredibly helpful, thank you all! @HighEndIntegrator - that scene breakdown is exactly what I was looking for. The 5-6 scene approach makes much more sense than overcomplicating it. @PalladiomOwner - that's a really honest take on the aesthetics question. Maybe I'll do Palladiom in the main living areas and RadioRA 3 in the theater to save some budget for better acoustic treatments.",{"id":217,"author":308,"author_avatar":309,"created_at":1353,"vote_count":297,"is_accepted":25,"body":1354},"2022-09-06T14:41:57.059574","One thing nobody mentioned yet - make sure your step lights are on their own circuit with a dedicated dimmer. You want those to stay at a very low level (3-5%) during movies for safety but completely independent from everything else. Nothing worse than someone tripping in the dark because you forgot to account for step lighting in your movie scene.",{"id":11,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"created_at":1356,"vote_count":429,"is_accepted":25,"body":1357},"2022-09-21T14:41:57.059574","Quick question for the group - can RadioRA 3 and Palladiom coexist in the same home on the same system? Asking because OP mentioned potentially mixing them.",{"id":441,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":1359,"vote_count":154,"is_accepted":25,"body":1360},"2022-09-27T14:41:57.059574","Yes, they absolutely can coexist. Both use the same processor (HomeWorks QSX for Palladiom, or you can run RA3 devices on HomeWorks as well). Many high-end homes mix Palladiom in the showcase areas with other Lutron lines in utility spaces. Your integrator can set this up seamlessly - it all appears as one unified system to Control4 or any other automation platform.",{"id":297,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":1331,"vote_count":754,"is_accepted":25,"body":1362},"@TechSavvyHomeowner Happy to help! One more tip - invest time in the commissioning process. Have your integrator bring test content and actually sit through scene adjustments with the projector running. What looks good with lights on looks completely different with the projector displaying content. We always budget a separate commissioning visit just for theater tuning.",{"id":1364,"title":1365,"tags":1366,"view_count":1371,"vote_count":819,"answer_count":201,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":13,"created_at":1372,"last_activity_at":1373,"thumbnail_url":1374,"is_technical":12,"has_solution_keywords":12,"related_thread_id":17,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"body":1375,"replies":1376},"25","Common DIY Lutron installation mistakes",[1367,1368,1283,973,1369,1370],"lutron-installation","diy-mistakes","wiring-tips","dimmer-setup",29640,"2021-12-27T14:46:59.963624","2022-03-13T01:46:59.963624","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002F13447ece583f8b2d19c98b98fe5aa6f5\u002F1024\u002F768","Hey everyone, I've been lurking on this forum for a while and finally decided to share my experience and ask for some collective wisdom. I just finished my first Lutron Caseta installation across about 12 switches and 4 Pico remotes, and let's just say it was a learning experience with plenty of mistakes along the way.\n\nI figured it might be helpful to start a thread documenting common DIY installation mistakes that people make when installing Lutron systems themselves. I'll start with my own embarrassing list:\n\n1. **Forgot to check for neutral wires first** - I assumed my 1960s home had neutrals everywhere. Spoiler alert: it didn't. Had to return several switches and swap for Caseta which doesn't require neutrals in most cases.\n\n2. **Didn't account for minimum load requirements** - Installed a dimmer on a circuit with just two small LED bulbs. The flickering was insane until I figured out I needed either more bulbs or a minimum load capacitor.\n\n3. **Pico remote placement disaster** - I mounted a Pico in a 3-gang box with regular switches and didn't realize the Pico Wallplate Bracket wouldn't fit properly with standard Decora plates. Had to order the Claro wallplates instead.\n\n4. **Overloaded a single dimmer** - Tried to put way too many recessed lights on one dimmer without checking the derating requirements. Learned the hard way that you can't just max out the wattage rating when you have multiple switches in the same box.\n\n5. **Bridge placement issues** - Put my Smart Bridge in a metal electrical closet. Range was terrible. Moved it to a central location and suddenly everything worked perfectly.\n\n6. **Didn't label wires before disconnecting** - This one is just basic electrical work 101 that I ignored. Spent an extra hour figuring out which wire went where in a 4-way switch setup.\n\nI know there are people here who've done much larger installations, including RadioRA 2 and even RA3 systems. What are the most common mistakes you've seen DIYers make? I'm planning to eventually upgrade to RA2 Select and want to avoid any pitfalls. Also curious about shade installation mistakes since I'm thinking about adding Serena shades next year.\n\nWould love to compile a comprehensive list that could help others avoid these headaches. What's the worst installation mistake you've made or witnessed?",[1377,1380,1383,1386,1389,1392,1395,1397,1399,1402,1405],{"id":123,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":1378,"vote_count":242,"is_accepted":25,"body":1379},"2022-01-15T14:46:59.963624","Great thread idea! The neutral wire thing gets SO many people. Another huge one I see constantly is people not understanding the difference between a 3-way and single-pole application. They buy two dimmers thinking they need one at each location, when really you only need one dimmer and a Pico remote for the second location.",{"id":13,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":1381,"vote_count":145,"is_accepted":12,"body":1382},"2022-01-19T14:46:59.963624","I do this professionally and the derating issue you mentioned is probably the #1 problem I see when cleaning up DIY installations. People don't realize that a 600W dimmer becomes a 500W dimmer with 2 devices in the same box, 400W with 3 devices, and so on. I've seen dimmers that were warm to the touch because someone put 8 can lights on a dimmer that was already derated to 300W due to a crowded box.\n\nFor RA2 Select specifically, the biggest mistake is not planning your device count properly. You're limited to 100 devices and that fills up faster than you'd think. Also, people forget that each Pico counts as a device. Plan your system on paper before buying anything.",{"id":238,"author":300,"author_avatar":301,"created_at":1384,"vote_count":285,"is_accepted":25,"body":1385},"2022-01-21T14:46:59.963624","On the shade side, the #1 mistake is not measuring properly. Measure three times at minimum - top, middle, and bottom of the window opening. Windows are rarely perfectly square. Also, inside mount vs outside mount has specific clearance requirements that people ignore.",{"id":242,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":1387,"vote_count":375,"is_accepted":25,"body":1388},"2022-01-30T14:46:59.963624","Wire labeling is huge. I use a label maker and photograph everything before disconnecting. Saved me countless times.",{"id":229,"author":239,"author_avatar":240,"created_at":1390,"vote_count":146,"is_accepted":25,"body":1391},"2022-02-06T14:46:59.963624","When I did my RA2 Select install, I made the mistake of not setting up the main repeater in the right mode first. Spent two hours wondering why devices wouldn't pair before realizing I needed to activate the system properly through the app. Read the quick start guide completely before touching anything - don't skim it like I did!",{"id":254,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":1393,"vote_count":254,"is_accepted":25,"body":1394},"2022-02-12T14:46:59.963624","The LED compatibility list exists for a reason! I cheaped out on some no-name LED bulbs and had horrible flickering even with the dimmer adjusted properly. Switched to bulbs on Lutron's compatibility list and problem solved.",{"id":217,"author":308,"author_avatar":309,"created_at":1393,"vote_count":386,"is_accepted":25,"body":1396},"Two things I'll add: First, people forget to adjust the high-end and low-end trim on their dimmers. Those LEDs that flicker at 10%? Often fixed by setting the low-end trim to 15-20%. Second, and this is specific to RA2\u002FRA3, antenna orientation on the main repeater matters. Don't shove it in a corner facing the wrong direction.",{"id":11,"author":282,"author_avatar":283,"created_at":1393,"vote_count":258,"is_accepted":25,"body":1398},"For the higher end systems, I've seen DIYers completely underestimate the importance of proper wire runs for the processor and repeaters. Using the wrong gauge wire or running next to high-voltage lines causes all sorts of communication issues. This is less of a concern with Caseta's RF-only approach, but once you get into hardwired keypads it becomes critical.",{"id":441,"author":255,"author_avatar":256,"created_at":1400,"vote_count":188,"is_accepted":25,"body":1401},"2022-03-04T14:46:59.963624","Don't forget about fan controls! Regular dimmers will destroy ceiling fan motors. You need the specific fan speed controls. Seen this mistake way too many times.",{"id":297,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"created_at":1403,"vote_count":413,"is_accepted":25,"body":1404},"2022-03-12T14:46:59.963624","These are all fantastic additions! The derating explanation from HighEndIntegrator is exactly the kind of detail I wish I'd known upfront. Going to save this thread for my RA2 Select planning. Thanks everyone for contributing - hopefully this helps other DIYers avoid our collective mistakes!",{"id":201,"author":353,"author_avatar":354,"created_at":1373,"vote_count":375,"is_accepted":25,"body":356},{"id":1407,"title":1408,"tags":1409,"view_count":1415,"vote_count":122,"answer_count":217,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":13,"created_at":1416,"last_activity_at":1417,"thumbnail_url":1418,"is_technical":25,"has_solution_keywords":12,"related_thread_id":17,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"body":1419,"replies":1420},"31","Lutron vintage dimmers for retrofit projects",[315,1410,1411,1412,1413,1414],"homeworks-qs","historic-retrofit","vintage-aesthetic","custom-integration","dimmer-solutions",37131,"2021-12-23T14:50:20.481874","2022-03-02T14:50:20.481874","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002Fefc4696f5d1fe887379e4f4654d86a2e\u002F1024\u002F768","Hey everyone, I'm working on a historic home renovation project where the homeowner is adamant about maintaining the 1920s aesthetic while still getting modern smart home functionality. They've seen some of the older Lutron dimmer designs and are asking if there's any way to integrate vintage-style controls with a RadioRA 2 or Homeworks system.\n\nI know Lutron has the Palladiom line for high-end aesthetics, but the client wants something that looks more period-appropriate - think rotary dimmers or push-button switches that would blend with their restored Art Deco fixtures. Has anyone successfully retrofitted vintage dimmer faceplates to work with modern Lutron keypads, or found third-party solutions that maintain the aesthetic while providing Lutron integration?\n\nAlso curious if anyone has experience with the older Grafik Eye panels in retrofit situations. I've seen some from the early 2000s that have a more timeless look compared to the newer touchscreen interfaces. Would love to hear about any creative solutions you've implemented for clients who want smart home tech without the modern plastic look. Budget isn't really a constraint here - they're willing to pay for custom solutions if necessary.",[1421,1424,1428,1431,1434,1437,1440],{"id":123,"author":282,"author_avatar":283,"created_at":1422,"vote_count":11,"is_accepted":25,"body":1423},"2022-01-16T14:50:20.481874","The Palladiom keypads actually come in some beautiful metal finishes that can work surprisingly well in period homes. I have the brass finish throughout my 1930s Tudor and guests often assume they're original to the house. Worth showing the client samples in person rather than just photos.",{"id":13,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":1425,"vote_count":1426,"is_accepted":12,"body":1427},"2022-01-18T14:50:20.481874",69,"For truly vintage aesthetics, I've had success using Lutron's Pico remotes hidden behind custom decorative plates. There's a company called Classic Accents that makes reproduction push-button switch plates, and with some creative mounting, you can hide a Pico behind them. The buttons actuate the Pico underneath. It's not a perfect solution but several of my historic preservation clients have been thrilled with the results. You lose some functionality compared to a full keypad, but for basic on\u002Foff\u002Fdim it works great.",{"id":238,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"created_at":1429,"vote_count":146,"is_accepted":25,"body":1430},"2022-01-24T14:50:20.481874","Have you looked at the Lutron Claro wallplates? They're cleaner than standard Decora but still pretty modern looking. Probably not vintage enough for your client though.",{"id":242,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":1432,"vote_count":238,"is_accepted":25,"body":1433},"2022-02-02T14:50:20.481874","I actually worked on a similar project last year with a 1920s brownstone. We ended up using Homeworks QS with the seeTouch keypads in the architectural style, then had a local metalworker create custom bronze bezels that matched the original hardware throughout the home. Lutron was surprisingly accommodating when we explained the project - they even provided CAD drawings of the keypad dimensions. The total cost for the custom bezels was around $400 per switch location, but for a high-end client that's negligible. The result was stunning and the client has referred us to three other historic home projects since.",{"id":229,"author":300,"author_avatar":301,"created_at":1435,"vote_count":11,"is_accepted":25,"body":1436},"2022-02-04T14:50:20.481874","For the Grafik Eye question - yes, the older 3000\u002F4000 series units have a more classic look. But finding them in good condition is tough, and Lutron has discontinued support. I wouldn't recommend going that route for a new install.",{"id":254,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":1438,"vote_count":188,"is_accepted":25,"body":1439},"2022-02-15T14:50:20.481874","Thanks everyone! The Pico behind custom plates idea from LutronFanatic is brilliant - I'm going to reach out to Classic Accents today. And Control4Enthusiast, would you mind sharing the contact for that metalworker? Custom bezels might be exactly what we need for the main living areas.",{"id":217,"author":261,"author_avatar":262,"created_at":1417,"vote_count":329,"is_accepted":25,"body":1441},"One more option to consider - Forbes & Lomax makes some beautiful toggle and rotary switches with a vintage aesthetic. They're not native Lutron, but they can be wired as dry contacts to trigger Lutron scenes. More complex installation but the aesthetic is unmatched for period homes.",{"id":1443,"title":1444,"tags":1445,"view_count":1450,"vote_count":146,"answer_count":11,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":13,"created_at":1451,"last_activity_at":1452,"thumbnail_url":1453,"is_technical":25,"has_solution_keywords":12,"related_thread_id":17,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"body":1454,"replies":1455},"14","Outdoor shading solutions with Lutron",[400,1446,1447,1448,1449,695],"outdoor-shades","radiora3","triathlon-motor","exterior-automation",19756,"2021-12-17T14:41:09.428359","2022-03-08T14:41:09.428359","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002F75209706a243a1dbb7e6ae20ab2f5d8e\u002F1024\u002F768","Hey everyone, I'm planning to add motorized shades to our outdoor living area and I'm wondering what options work well with Lutron systems. We have a covered patio with three large openings (each about 12ft wide x 10ft tall) that face west, so the afternoon sun is brutal during summer months.\n\nCurrently running a RadioRA 3 system inside the house with Sivoia QS shades throughout, so I'd love to keep everything integrated on the same platform if possible. My main concerns are:\n\n1. Weather resistance - we're in the Southeast, so humidity, occasional rain (even under the cover, wind-driven rain happens), and temperature swings are all factors\n2. UV protection - need something that actually blocks significant sun while still allowing some visibility\n3. Integration - ideally controlled through my existing Lutron keypads and app\n\nI've seen some exterior shade options from Lutron but I'm not clear on what's actually rated for outdoor use versus just \"covered porch\" use. Has anyone done a similar installation? What products did you use and how have they held up? Also curious about fabric choices - is there a specific outdoor-rated material I should be looking at?\n\nBudget isn't unlimited but I'm willing to invest in quality if it means longevity. Thanks in advance for any guidance!",[1456,1459,1462,1465,1468,1471,1474,1477],{"id":123,"author":300,"author_avatar":301,"created_at":1457,"vote_count":11,"is_accepted":25,"body":1458},"2022-01-16T14:41:09.428359","Lutron makes the Sivoia QS Triathlon specifically for exterior applications. It's their weather-resistant motor designed for exactly this use case. Make sure your integrator specifies the outdoor-rated version with the appropriate NEMA enclosure.",{"id":13,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":1460,"vote_count":776,"is_accepted":12,"body":1461},"2022-01-19T14:41:09.428359","The Triathlon motors are definitely the way to go for your situation. I've installed dozens of these in the Southeast and they hold up remarkably well. For fabric, you'll want to look at Sunbrella or similar solution-dyed acrylic fabrics - they're specifically designed for outdoor UV exposure and won't fade or degrade like indoor fabrics would.\n\nA few installation tips from experience: make sure the mounting hardware is stainless steel or marine-grade aluminum, have your installer include drip edges above the shade pockets, and consider adding wind sensors to auto-retract the shades if gusts exceed a safe threshold. At 12ft wide, those shades will act like sails in strong wind.\n\nSince you're already on RadioRA 3, integration is seamless - the Triathlon motors communicate via the same QS protocol. You can add them to existing scenes, set up astronomical timeclock events, and control everything from the Lutron app just like your interior shades.",{"id":238,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":1463,"vote_count":201,"is_accepted":25,"body":1464},"2022-01-20T14:41:09.428359","Great advice above. Just want to add that the fabric openness factor matters a lot for your use case. For western exposure with harsh sun, I'd look at 3-5% openness. Gives you view-through while blocking most of the heat and UV.",{"id":242,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":1466,"vote_count":263,"is_accepted":25,"body":1467},"2022-01-28T14:41:09.428359","Wind sensors are a must! I learned this the hard way when a client's outdoor shades got damaged in a sudden storm. The Lutron system can accept input from third-party wind sensors through the processor.",{"id":229,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":1469,"vote_count":254,"is_accepted":25,"body":1470},"2022-02-01T14:41:09.428359","This is incredibly helpful, thank you all! The Triathlon motors sound like exactly what I need. Quick follow-up - for the wind sensor integration, is that something that requires the RA3 processor or can it work with just repeaters? I currently have two repeaters handling my system.",{"id":254,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":1472,"vote_count":242,"is_accepted":25,"body":1473},"2022-02-09T14:41:09.428359","For proper wind sensor integration you'll want the processor. The repeaters alone won't give you the conditional logic needed for automated retraction based on sensor input. Might be worth the upgrade anyway since you're expanding the system.",{"id":217,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"created_at":1475,"vote_count":386,"is_accepted":25,"body":1476},"2022-02-22T14:41:09.428359","Just curious - what's the rough price range for a setup like this? Three 12ft exterior shades with Triathlon motors seems like it could get expensive quickly.",{"id":11,"author":300,"author_avatar":301,"created_at":1452,"vote_count":425,"is_accepted":25,"body":1478},"Ballpark for exterior Sivoia QS Triathlon at that size, you're probably looking at $2,500-4,000 per shade installed depending on fabric choice and your market. Premium outdoor fabrics and the larger motor requirements push the price up compared to interior equivalents. Worth every penny for longevity though.",{"id":1480,"title":1481,"tags":1482,"view_count":1487,"vote_count":1488,"answer_count":11,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":13,"created_at":1489,"last_activity_at":1490,"thumbnail_url":1491,"is_technical":12,"has_solution_keywords":12,"related_thread_id":17,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"body":1492,"replies":1493},"27","Best thermostat to pair with Control4",[196,1483,1484,1485,1486,319],"thermostat","aprilaire","hvac-integration","climate-control",29971,68,"2021-12-07T14:48:14.102782","2022-01-14T23:48:14.102782","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002F2e06c0fd5e15ddd5717075e501b882f4\u002F1024\u002F768","I'm in the process of upgrading my home automation setup and I'm trying to figure out the best thermostat option to integrate with my Control4 system. Currently running an older Honeywell that's not connected to anything, and I really want full integration so I can control HVAC from my touchscreens and through the app.\n\nI've been looking at a few options - the Aprilaire 8800 series seems popular in the Control4 world, but I've also seen people mention the ecobee with a driver, and even some talk about the newer Honeywell T-series. My house is about 4,500 sq ft with two zones, so I need something reliable that can handle the complexity.\n\nWhat's everyone's experience been with thermostat integration? I'm particularly interested in:\n1. Reliability of the driver\u002Fintegration\n2. How well scenes and schedules work\n3. Any lag or connectivity issues\n4. Overall user experience on the Control4 interface\n\nI have a dealer but wanted to get some real-world feedback before our next meeting. Budget isn't a huge concern - I'd rather spend more for something that works flawlessly than save money on something that's going to be a headache. Thanks in advance for any recommendations!",[1494,1497,1500,1503,1506,1509,1512,1515],{"id":123,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":1495,"vote_count":146,"is_accepted":25,"body":1496},"2021-12-10T14:48:14.102782","Aprilaire 8800 all the way. It's purpose-built for Control4 and the integration is rock solid. I've had mine for three years with zero issues.",{"id":13,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":1498,"vote_count":432,"is_accepted":12,"body":1499},"2021-12-19T14:48:14.102782","As a dealer, I install probably 90% Aprilaire 8800 series for Control4 projects. The native driver is extremely reliable and you get full two-way feedback on the touchscreens. Temperature, humidity, fan status, everything shows up perfectly. The scheduling through Control4 is seamless and it plays nice with scenes - like my clients love having a \"Goodnight\" scene that sets back the thermostat along with lights and locks.\n\nThe ecobee can work but you're relying on cloud connectivity and a third-party driver. For a high-end install where reliability matters, I always recommend the Aprilaire. The 8820 model supports up to two stages of heat\u002Fcool which should work great for your two-zone setup.",{"id":238,"author":255,"author_avatar":256,"created_at":1501,"vote_count":293,"is_accepted":25,"body":1502},"2021-12-23T14:48:14.102782","I went ecobee route initially because I liked the remote sensors. Worked okay for about a year, then the driver started having authentication issues every few months. Switched to Aprilaire and haven't looked back.",{"id":242,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"created_at":1504,"vote_count":297,"is_accepted":25,"body":1505},"2022-01-06T14:48:14.102782","Just curious - has anyone tried the newer Honeywell T10 Pro with Control4? My HVAC guy keeps pushing Honeywell but I can't find much info on integration quality.",{"id":229,"author":308,"author_avatar":309,"created_at":1507,"vote_count":346,"is_accepted":25,"body":1508},"2022-01-10T14:48:14.102782","The Honeywell integration exists but it's nowhere near as polished as Aprilaire. If your HVAC guy is pushing Honeywell, it's probably because that's what he's familiar with installing. Any decent tech can wire up an Aprilaire though - it's standard 24V wiring. I'd push back and go with what integrates best with your automation system, not what's convenient for the HVAC contractor.",{"id":254,"author":261,"author_avatar":262,"created_at":1510,"vote_count":188,"is_accepted":25,"body":1511},"2022-01-11T14:48:14.102782","Another vote for Aprilaire here. The 8840 is their top model if you want humidity control built in. Worth considering for a house your size.",{"id":217,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":1513,"vote_count":216,"is_accepted":25,"body":1514},"2022-01-14T14:48:14.102782","Thanks everyone! Sounds like Aprilaire is the clear winner. I'll bring this up with my dealer and push for the 8820 or 8840. Really appreciate the real-world feedback - this is exactly what I needed.",{"id":11,"author":353,"author_avatar":354,"created_at":1490,"vote_count":134,"is_accepted":25,"body":356},{"id":1517,"title":1518,"tags":1519,"view_count":1524,"vote_count":457,"answer_count":216,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":13,"created_at":1525,"last_activity_at":1526,"thumbnail_url":1527,"is_technical":12,"has_solution_keywords":12,"related_thread_id":17,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"body":1528,"replies":1529},"37","Adding non-native devices to Control4",[196,1285,1520,1521,1522,1523],"device-integration","third-party-drivers","chowmain","smart-home-bridge",38943,"2021-11-11T14:53:24.946836","2022-02-10T14:53:24.946836","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002Fdd51d16ac1063ff709d7c5f0807aa69a\u002F1024\u002F768","Hey everyone, I recently had a Control4 system installed in my new home and I'm loving the integration so far. However, I have a few devices that aren't natively supported by Control4 that I'd really like to incorporate into the system. Specifically, I have some Govee RGBIC light strips in my entertainment room, a Roborock vacuum, and a few Meross smart plugs that I was using before the C4 install.\n\nI've heard there are ways to bring non-native devices into Control4 through various methods like IP drivers, IFTTT, or even Home Assistant as a bridge. My dealer mentioned something about Chowmain drivers but didn't go into much detail.\n\nWhat's the best approach for someone who wants to keep their existing smart devices working within the Control4 ecosystem? I'm somewhat technical and comfortable with basic networking, but I don't have dealer access to Composer Pro. My dealer is great but charges $150\u002Fhour for programming changes, so I'd like to minimize those costs where possible.\n\nAre there any community drivers or third-party solutions that work well? I've seen some posts about using Home Assistant as a middleware layer - is that overkill for what I'm trying to do? Would love to hear from others who have successfully integrated non-native devices into their C4 systems.",[1530,1533,1536,1539,1542,1545,1548,1551,1556,1561,1566,1571,1576,1581,1586],{"id":123,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":1531,"vote_count":1199,"is_accepted":25,"body":1532},"2021-12-08T14:53:24.946836","The Chowmain drivers your dealer mentioned are definitely the way to go for many devices. They have drivers for Roborock vacuums that work great. For the Meross plugs, you might be better off replacing them with something native like the C4 outlet switches - the integration will be much more reliable and responsive.",{"id":13,"author":255,"author_avatar":256,"created_at":1534,"vote_count":285,"is_accepted":12,"body":1535},"2021-12-13T14:53:24.946836","I've gone down the Home Assistant bridge route and honestly it's fantastic if you're willing to put in the initial setup time. There's a HA driver for Control4 that exposes your HA entities to C4. This means anything Home Assistant can control, Control4 can control. For your Govee strips and Meross plugs, HA has native integrations that work perfectly.\n\nThe setup involves running Home Assistant on a Raspberry Pi or similar, connecting all your non-native devices there, then using the Control4-HA driver to bridge them over. Your dealer would need to install the driver and do initial config, but after that you can add\u002Fremove devices in HA without needing dealer involvement. It's maybe 2-3 hours of dealer time upfront but saves money long-term.",{"id":238,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":1537,"vote_count":346,"is_accepted":25,"body":1538},"2022-01-02T14:53:24.946836","Just a heads up - the Govee strips use their own cloud API which can be flaky. I tried integrating mine and the latency was noticeable. Ended up replacing them with Hue strips and using the native C4 driver.",{"id":242,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"created_at":1540,"vote_count":375,"is_accepted":25,"body":1541},"2022-01-08T14:53:24.946836","Seconding the Home Assistant approach. I run about 40 devices through HA into my C4 system including some cheap Tuya stuff and it works surprisingly well.",{"id":229,"author":308,"author_avatar":309,"created_at":1543,"vote_count":350,"is_accepted":25,"body":1544},"2022-01-17T14:53:24.946836","One thing to consider is reliability expectations. Native C4 devices respond in milliseconds and are rock solid. Bridged devices through HA or cloud APIs can have delays of 1-3 seconds and occasionally fail. For lighting I always recommend going native, but for things like robot vacuums where you're just triggering a cleaning cycle, the slight delay doesn't matter at all.\n\nAlso worth noting that some Chowmain drivers require annual subscriptions, so factor that into your cost analysis versus just paying your dealer for the occasional change.",{"id":254,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":1546,"vote_count":346,"is_accepted":25,"body":1547},"2022-01-22T14:53:24.946836","Thanks everyone! The HA bridge approach sounds like exactly what I need. I already have a Pi sitting around doing nothing. @HomeAutoGeek - do you know which specific driver I should ask my dealer to install for the HA integration?",{"id":217,"author":255,"author_avatar":256,"created_at":1549,"vote_count":238,"is_accepted":25,"body":1550},"2022-02-01T14:53:24.946836","Look for the \"Home Assistant Control4 Integration\" - it's actually configured from the HA side using HACS. Your dealer just needs to enable the director's API access. Pretty straightforward.",{"id":11,"author":1552,"author_avatar":1553,"created_at":1554,"vote_count":154,"is_accepted":25,"body":1555},"C4MasterTech","https:\u002F\u002Fui-avatars.com\u002Fapi\u002F?name=C4MasterTech&background=random&color=fff&size=256&bold=true","2022-02-05T10:15:00.000000","Chowmain actually has a dedicated Govee driver now that supports the RGBIC strips directly through their cloud API. I've deployed it on three client jobs and the response time is under 2 seconds. For the Roborock, their official vacuum driver includes room mapping which is a huge plus. Meross is better handled locally via Tuya or through HA to avoid cloud dependency.",{"id":441,"author":1557,"author_avatar":1558,"created_at":1559,"vote_count":730,"is_accepted":25,"body":1560},"SmartBridgeExpert","https:\u002F\u002Fui-avatars.com\u002Fapi\u002F?name=SmartBridgeExpert&background=random&color=fff&size=256&bold=true","2022-02-06T14:22:00.000000","If you want zero dealer involvement after setup, go full HA + the official Control4 integration from the HA community. You can expose every single entity (lights, switches, vacuum) as virtual devices in C4. I've been running this on my own system for 18 months with zero downtime. The initial dealer programming is literally just enabling the director API.",{"id":297,"author":1562,"author_avatar":1563,"created_at":1564,"vote_count":146,"is_accepted":25,"body":1565},"HomeIntegratorNYC","https:\u002F\u002Fui-avatars.com\u002Fapi\u002F?name=HomeIntegratorNYC&background=random&color=fff&size=256&bold=true","2022-02-07T09:45:00.000000","One tip most people miss: use the local Tuya integration in HA for your Meross plugs instead of cloud. It's faster and doesn't rely on internet. Then bridge to C4. Works like a charm and your dealer only needs to add the HA driver once.",{"id":201,"author":1567,"author_avatar":1568,"created_at":1569,"vote_count":329,"is_accepted":25,"body":1570},"C4DIYGuy","https:\u002F\u002Fui-avatars.com\u002Fapi\u002F?name=C4DIYGuy&background=random&color=fff&size=256&bold=true","2022-02-08T16:30:00.000000","I replaced my Govee strips with Philips Hue and never looked back. Native C4 Hue driver is instant and rock solid. For the vacuum and plugs, HA is perfect. Total cost for the bridge setup was less than one dealer visit.",{"id":122,"author":1572,"author_avatar":1573,"created_at":1574,"vote_count":177,"is_accepted":25,"body":1575},"AutomationFanatic","https:\u002F\u002Fui-avatars.com\u002Fapi\u002F?name=AutomationFanatic&background=random&color=fff&size=256&bold=true","2022-02-09T11:10:00.000000","Chowmain subscription is $99\u002Fyear per driver but worth it for the support. If budget is tight, HA is free and the community is huge. I help people set this up all the time.",{"id":632,"author":1577,"author_avatar":1578,"created_at":1579,"vote_count":263,"is_accepted":25,"body":1580},"TechDealerAlly","https:\u002F\u002Fui-avatars.com\u002Fapi\u002F?name=TechDealerAlly&background=random&color=fff&size=256&bold=true","2022-02-09T18:45:00.000000","As a dealer myself, I always recommend the HA bridge for clients who want to tinker. It keeps you in control without calling me every time you buy a new gadget.",{"id":177,"author":1582,"author_avatar":1583,"created_at":1584,"vote_count":425,"is_accepted":25,"body":1585},"HAControl4User","https:\u002F\u002Fui-avatars.com\u002Fapi\u002F?name=HAControl4User&background=random&color=fff&size=256&bold=true","2022-02-10T08:20:00.000000","The HACS Control4 integration is the one you want. Search for 'control4' in HACS and install the latest version. Takes about 10 minutes once HA is running.",{"id":216,"author":1587,"author_avatar":1588,"created_at":1589,"vote_count":122,"is_accepted":25,"body":1590},"FinalTipGuru","https:\u002F\u002Fui-avatars.com\u002Fapi\u002F?name=FinalTipGuru&background=random&color=fff&size=256&bold=true","2022-02-10T13:55:00.000000","One last tip: enable logging in the HA-Control4 driver so you can see exactly what's happening if something lags. Makes troubleshooting super easy.",{"id":1592,"title":1593,"tags":1594,"view_count":1596,"vote_count":457,"answer_count":297,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":242,"created_at":1597,"last_activity_at":1598,"thumbnail_url":1599,"is_technical":12,"has_solution_keywords":25,"related_thread_id":17,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"body":1600,"replies":1601},"2","Palladiom motorized shades vs Sivoia QS — real user experiences in modern interiors",[269,1052,536,271,401,1595],"modern-interiors",36429,"2021-10-31T13:41:15.982314","2022-01-20T22:41:15.982314","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002F09dadadc3a2809b17c1c61a1352405c3\u002F1024\u002F768","Hey everyone, I'm in the middle of a major renovation on our 4,500 sq ft contemporary home and I'm stuck between two premium motorized shade options. My integrator has presented both Palladiom and Sivoia QS as viable choices, but I'm having trouble understanding the real-world differences beyond the spec sheets.\n\nOur home has floor-to-ceiling windows in the main living areas (some as wide as 14 feet), a dedicated home theater room, and five bedrooms that all need blackout capability. The architecture is very clean and minimal — think exposed concrete, white oak floors, and lots of glass. My wife is particularly concerned about the aesthetics since we've invested heavily in the interior design.\n\nFrom what I understand, Palladiom is Lutron's flagship line with the exposed hardware design that's meant to be seen, while Sivoia QS is more about hiding everything behind the fascia. But I've read conflicting things about motor noise, fabric selection, and long-term reliability.\n\nA few specific questions I'm hoping experienced users can address:\n\n1. Motor noise — we have an open floor plan and sound carries. How do these two systems compare in real-world quiet operation? I've seen the dB specs but those don't always tell the whole story.\n\n2. For those with Palladiom, how has the exposed hardware held up over time? Any issues with dust accumulation, finish wear, or the mechanism becoming less smooth?\n\n3. Fabric options — does one system offer significantly more choices than the other? We're looking at sheer fabrics for the living areas and full blackout for bedrooms and theater.\n\n4. Integration — we're running a Lutron RadioRA 3 system throughout the house. I assume both integrate equally well, but are there any gotchas I should know about?\n\n5. Resale value and future-proofing — if we ever sell this house in 10+ years, which system is likely to be better supported and more appealing to buyers?\n\nOur budget can accommodate either option, so this is really about making the right choice for our specific situation. I've visited a Lutron showroom but the controlled environment there doesn't really replicate a lived-in home with ambient noise and daily use.\n\nWould love to hear from anyone who has lived with either system for more than a year, especially in modern\u002Fcontemporary homes with similar requirements. Photos of installations would be amazing if anyone is willing to share. Thanks in advance for any insights!",[1602,1605,1608,1611,1614,1617,1620,1623,1626,1629],{"id":123,"author":282,"author_avatar":283,"created_at":1603,"vote_count":754,"is_accepted":25,"body":1604},"2021-11-12T13:41:15.982314","I've had Palladiom in my home for about three years now across 22 windows. The exposed hardware was the main selling point for us since our architect wanted that industrial-modern look. Honestly, the motors are whisper quiet — I can barely hear them even in complete silence, and we also have an open floor plan. The hardware still looks brand new, though I do have my housekeeper dust the brackets monthly. One thing to consider is that Palladiom really shines when you have interesting ceiling details or want the mechanism to be a design element. If you're going for pure minimalism where you want the shades to disappear, Sivoia QS with a proper pocket detail might be the better choice.",{"id":13,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":1606,"vote_count":254,"is_accepted":25,"body":1607},"2021-11-13T13:41:15.982314","As someone who installs both systems regularly, here's my take: they use the same motor technology, so noise levels are virtually identical. The difference is purely aesthetic and installation-related. Palladiom requires more precise installation since everything is visible. Sivoia QS is more forgiving if your framing isn't perfect.",{"id":238,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":1609,"vote_count":258,"is_accepted":25,"body":1610},"2021-11-26T13:41:15.982314","Both integrate flawlessly with RadioRA 3, no gotchas there. Same app, same keypads, same scenes. You won't notice any difference in daily operation.",{"id":242,"author":419,"author_avatar":420,"created_at":1612,"vote_count":1099,"is_accepted":12,"body":1613},"2021-11-30T13:41:15.982314","The fabric selection question is important. Both systems pull from Lutron's shade fabric library, which is extensive — hundreds of options including Mermet, Phifer, and their own proprietary fabrics. However, Palladiom has some specific fabric cassette requirements due to the exposed design, so you might have slightly fewer options in certain categories. For blackout, both systems offer excellent choices. I'd recommend requesting physical samples from your integrator for any fabric you're considering — the online swatches never quite capture how light interacts with the material.\n\nFor your theater room specifically, I'd actually suggest Sivoia QS with a recessed pocket. You want zero light leakage and the fascia design helps achieve that better than exposed hardware.",{"id":229,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":1615,"vote_count":350,"is_accepted":25,"body":1616},"2021-12-04T13:41:15.982314","Not to throw a wrench in things, but have you considered mixing both? I've seen high-end installs where they use Palladiom in the showcase living areas and Sivoia QS in bedrooms and utility spaces. Best of both worlds aesthetically and can save some budget.",{"id":254,"author":300,"author_avatar":301,"created_at":1618,"vote_count":229,"is_accepted":25,"body":1619},"2021-12-13T13:41:15.982314","Great suggestion above. We did exactly that in our build. Palladiom in the great room where guests see them, Sivoia everywhere else.",{"id":217,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":1621,"vote_count":556,"is_accepted":25,"body":1622},"2022-01-04T13:41:15.982314","These responses are incredibly helpful! The mixed approach hadn't occurred to me but makes total sense. Quick follow-up for PalladiomOwner — what finish did you go with on the hardware? We're debating between the satin nickel and the graphite.",{"id":11,"author":282,"author_avatar":283,"created_at":1624,"vote_count":494,"is_accepted":25,"body":1625},"2022-01-06T13:41:15.982314","We went with graphite and have zero regrets. It reads as almost black in most lighting conditions and completely disappears against our dark ceiling details. The satin nickel is beautiful too but shows fingerprints more during installation and any future maintenance. Graphite is more forgiving.",{"id":441,"author":308,"author_avatar":309,"created_at":1627,"vote_count":201,"is_accepted":25,"body":1628},"2022-01-20T13:41:15.982314","On the resale\u002Ffuture-proofing question — both are flagship Lutron products and will be supported for decades. Lutron is excellent about backward compatibility. I still service Grafik Eye systems from the early 2000s that work perfectly with modern processors. Either choice will be an asset when selling. Luxury buyers specifically look for Lutron shading.",{"id":297,"author":353,"author_avatar":354,"created_at":1598,"vote_count":547,"is_accepted":25,"body":356},{"id":1631,"title":1632,"tags":1633,"view_count":1637,"vote_count":379,"answer_count":11,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":238,"created_at":1638,"last_activity_at":1639,"thumbnail_url":1640,"is_technical":12,"has_solution_keywords":12,"related_thread_id":17,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"body":1641,"replies":1642},"21","Voice control with Google Assistant and Lutron",[1634,315,1635,1284,1636,319],"google-assistant","voice-control","sivoia-shades",34228,"2021-09-29T14:45:19.814934","2021-12-14T21:45:19.814934","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002F905dd73bad4dfe9a5e9e86a52afa359d\u002F1024\u002F768","I recently had a Lutron RadioRA 2 system installed throughout my home and I'm trying to get Google Assistant voice control working properly. I have the Lutron Smart Bridge Pro connected and it shows up in the Google Home app, but I'm running into some frustrating issues.\n\nFirst, when I say \"Hey Google, turn on the living room lights,\" there's about a 3-4 second delay before anything happens. Is this normal? My old smart bulbs responded almost instantly.\n\nSecond, I can't seem to get dimming commands to work consistently. Sometimes \"dim the kitchen lights to 50%\" works perfectly, other times Google says it doesn't understand or the lights go to a completely different level.\n\nThird, I have some Sivoia QS shades integrated into the system. Google Home shows them but voice commands like \"open the bedroom shades\" don't do anything at all. The shades work fine from the Lutron app and keypads.\n\nI've tried unlinking and relinking the Lutron account in Google Home, renaming devices to simpler names, and even factory resetting the Smart Bridge Pro. Nothing seems to help consistently.\n\nIs there something special about the RadioRA 2 integration with Google that I'm missing? Should I be using a different bridge or integration method? Any tips from those who have this working smoothly would be greatly appreciated!",[1643,1646,1649,1652,1655,1658,1661,1664],{"id":123,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":1644,"vote_count":346,"is_accepted":25,"body":1645},"2021-10-08T14:45:19.814934","The delay you're experiencing is pretty typical for cloud-based integrations. The command goes from your phone to Google's servers, then to Lutron's cloud, then back down to your bridge. For faster local control, you might want to look into a Hubitat or Home Assistant setup that can control RadioRA 2 locally.",{"id":13,"author":239,"author_avatar":240,"created_at":1647,"vote_count":386,"is_accepted":25,"body":1648},"2021-11-04T14:45:19.814934","For the dimming issues, make sure your device names in the Lutron app don't have special characters or numbers. Google Assistant can be picky about that. Also try saying \"set\" instead of \"dim\" - like \"Hey Google, set kitchen lights to 50 percent.\"",{"id":238,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":1650,"vote_count":379,"is_accepted":12,"body":1651},"2021-11-08T14:45:19.814934","The shade issue is a known limitation with the native Google Home integration for RadioRA 2. Sivoia QS shades exposed through the Smart Bridge Pro often don't respond properly to Google Assistant commands even though they appear in the app. This is because Google's smart home API treats shades differently than lights, and Lutron's implementation has some gaps.\n\nWhat I do for my clients is use a workaround through Home Assistant or a similar platform. You create virtual switches that trigger shade scenes in Lutron, then expose those virtual switches to Google. It's an extra step but it works reliably. Alternatively, you can create phantom buttons in your RadioRA 2 programming that control the shades, then use the Lutron integration's button press capability.\n\nFor the delay issue, 3-4 seconds is unfortunately normal for the cloud path. If instant response is critical, consider adding a local integration layer.",{"id":242,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"created_at":1653,"vote_count":201,"is_accepted":25,"body":1654},"2021-11-21T14:45:19.814934","I had the exact same shade problem! The Home Assistant route that HighEndIntegrator mentioned is what finally fixed it for me. Took a weekend to set up but totally worth it.",{"id":229,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":1656,"vote_count":217,"is_accepted":25,"body":1657},"2021-11-24T14:45:19.814934","Just curious - did your installer set up the integration or did you do it yourself? Sometimes the device types get misconfigured during the initial setup in the Lutron app which causes Google to not recognize commands properly.",{"id":254,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":1659,"vote_count":217,"is_accepted":25,"body":1660},"2021-12-05T14:45:19.814934","Thanks everyone! The installer did the initial setup but I linked Google Home myself. I'll try the \"set\" command phrasing and look into Home Assistant for the shades. Disappointing that the native integration has these limitations but at least there are workarounds.",{"id":217,"author":308,"author_avatar":309,"created_at":1662,"vote_count":188,"is_accepted":25,"body":1663},"2021-12-14T14:45:19.814934","One more tip - make sure your Smart Bridge Pro firmware is up to date. Lutron pushed an update a few months ago that improved some Google Assistant responsiveness. You can check in the Lutron app under bridge settings.",{"id":11,"author":353,"author_avatar":354,"created_at":1639,"vote_count":176,"is_accepted":25,"body":356},{"id":1666,"title":1667,"tags":1668,"view_count":1672,"vote_count":201,"answer_count":217,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":13,"created_at":1673,"last_activity_at":1674,"thumbnail_url":1675,"is_technical":25,"has_solution_keywords":25,"related_thread_id":17,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"body":1676,"replies":1677},"22","Energy savings with automated Lutron shades",[274,1669,271,1670,319,1671],"energy-savings","serena-shades","hvac-efficiency",28520,"2021-09-09T14:45:44.390667","2021-11-25T14:45:44.390667","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002Fc5a9723601d1ee4db3f999fdae1e20ac\u002F1024\u002F768","I've had my Lutron Serena shades installed for about 8 months now, and I wanted to share some real-world energy savings data since I know a lot of people ask about ROI on automated shades.\n\nMy setup: 12 Serena shades on the south and west facing windows of my home, integrated with RadioRA 3. I created automations based on sun position, outside temperature, and time of day. In summer, the shades automatically close when direct sun hits each window and the outside temp exceeds 75°F. In winter, they open during sunny periods to capture passive solar heat.\n\nComparing my utility bills year-over-year (same occupancy patterns, similar weather), I'm seeing roughly 15-18% reduction in HVAC costs during summer months. Winter savings are harder to quantify but my heating system definitely cycles less on sunny days.\n\nThe shades cost me around $8,500 installed. At current energy prices, I'm saving approximately $45-60 per month during peak cooling season and maybe $20-30 during heating season. Obviously not a quick payback, but combined with the convenience, light control, and furniture\u002Ffloor protection from UV, I'm really happy with the investment.\n\nAnyone else tracking their energy savings with automated shades? I'm curious if others are seeing similar results or if different climates\u002Fwindow orientations change the equation significantly.",[1678,1681,1684,1687,1690,1693,1696],{"id":123,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":1679,"vote_count":146,"is_accepted":25,"body":1680},"2021-10-03T14:45:44.390667","Great data! I'm in Arizona and my savings are even more dramatic - closer to 25% reduction in cooling costs during summer. The key is really the sun-tracking automation. Manual shades just don't get adjusted frequently enough to make a real difference.",{"id":13,"author":419,"author_avatar":420,"created_at":1682,"vote_count":871,"is_accepted":12,"body":1683},"2021-10-12T14:45:44.390667","This is exactly the kind of real-world data people need to see. A few things that can maximize your savings even further:\n\n1. Make sure you're using the Lutron sun tracking features properly - it accounts for your exact GPS coordinates and calculates sun angles throughout the year\n2. Consider adding a temperature sensor on your windows to trigger shades based on actual glass temp, not just outside air temp\n3. If you have any skylights, those are energy vampires - automated shades there will give you the best ROI per shade\n4. Don't forget to factor in the reduced UV damage to flooring and furniture - that's real money saved over time\n\nI typically tell clients to expect 3-5 year payback in hot climates, 6-8 years in moderate climates when factoring everything in.",{"id":238,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":1685,"vote_count":754,"is_accepted":25,"body":1686},"2021-10-17T14:45:44.390667","I integrated my Lutron shades with Control4 and added occupancy sensing to the mix. Shades only do the full automation routine when someone's actually home. Saves a bit more since the HVAC isn't fighting as hard when we're away anyway.",{"id":242,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"created_at":1688,"vote_count":375,"is_accepted":25,"body":1689},"2021-10-27T14:45:44.390667","15-18% is impressive! I only have 4 shades on my west-facing windows and I'm seeing maybe 8-10% savings. Makes sense that more coverage equals more savings.",{"id":229,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":1691,"vote_count":229,"is_accepted":25,"body":1692},"2021-10-30T14:45:44.390667","As someone who installs these systems professionally, your numbers align with what we typically see. The clients who get the best ROI are those in climates with significant cooling loads and lots of direct sun exposure. One thing worth mentioning - dual roller shades with both a solar screen and blackout option can be even more effective since you can use the solar screen to reduce heat gain while still maintaining some view and natural light.",{"id":254,"author":239,"author_avatar":240,"created_at":1694,"vote_count":154,"is_accepted":25,"body":1695},"2021-11-01T14:45:44.390667","Thanks for posting actual numbers! I've been on the fence about adding more shades to my RA2 Select system. This helps justify the expense to my wife lol.",{"id":217,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":1674,"vote_count":201,"is_accepted":25,"body":1697},"Great tips everyone! @ShadeControlExpert - I hadn't thought about adding a window glass temperature sensor. What would you recommend for that? And yeah, the UV protection is definitely a factor I should have emphasized more. My hardwood floors in the living room used to fade noticeably near the windows.",{"id":1699,"title":1700,"tags":1701,"view_count":1706,"vote_count":1255,"answer_count":297,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":13,"created_at":1707,"last_activity_at":1708,"thumbnail_url":1709,"is_technical":12,"has_solution_keywords":12,"related_thread_id":17,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"body":1710,"replies":1711},"26","Integrating third-party security with Control4 lighting",[196,1702,1703,1704,1521,1705],"security-integration","2gig","hikvision","lighting-automation",18355,"2021-08-12T14:47:37.649718","2021-10-29T18:47:37.649718","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002Fc86a29223200c8a0da4029f8bc226670\u002F1024\u002F768","Hey everyone, I'm hoping to get some guidance from the community on a project I've been wrestling with for the past few weeks. I recently had a Control4 system installed in my home for lighting control, and it's been working great. However, I also have an existing Hikvision security camera system and a 2GIG alarm panel that were installed before I went with Control4.\n\nMy goal is to create some automation scenarios where the security system can trigger lighting responses. For example, when the alarm is armed in 'Away' mode, I want certain lights to run a vacation simulation pattern. When motion is detected on specific cameras at night, I'd like the exterior lights to come on at 100%. And if the alarm is ever triggered, I want all interior lights to flash or come on to full brightness.\n\nMy Control4 dealer mentioned that they could potentially integrate the 2GIG panel using the 4Sight service and some IP commands, but they seemed uncertain about the Hikvision cameras. They quoted me around $2,500 just for the security integration work, which seems steep when I'm essentially just wanting to pass some simple triggers.\n\nI've done some research and found that there are supposedly drivers available for various security systems, but I'm having trouble finding concrete information about compatibility and reliability. Some forum posts I've found are several years old, and I know this industry moves fast.\n\nA few specific questions I'm hoping someone can help with:\n\n1. Is there a reliable driver for 2GIG panels that works with current Control4 systems? I'm running OS 3.4.1.\n\n2. For the Hikvision cameras, is there any way to get motion detection events into Control4? The cameras have ONVIF support if that matters.\n\n3. Has anyone had success using something like a SIFELY or other middleware to bridge these systems together?\n\n4. Would I be better off replacing the 2GIG with a Control4-native security solution? I've heard mixed things about their security offerings.\n\n5. Are there any DIY-friendly approaches here, or is this really something that requires dealer involvement due to driver licensing?\n\nI'm fairly technical - I work in IT and have done some home automation projects before (Home Assistant on a Raspberry Pi, various Z-Wave stuff). But the Control4 ecosystem seems much more closed off, which is frustrating when you're trying to do integrations like this.\n\nAny advice, experiences, or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. I'm also open to hearing about alternative approaches I might not have considered. Budget isn't unlimited, but I'm willing to invest in a proper solution rather than a hacky workaround that might break with the next update.\n\nThanks in advance!",[1712,1715,1718,1721,1724,1727,1730,1733,1736,1739],{"id":123,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":1713,"vote_count":350,"is_accepted":25,"body":1714},"2021-08-29T14:47:37.649718","The 2GIG integration is definitely doable - there's a driver from Cinegration that works well with OS 3. Your dealer should be able to get it through DriverCentral. The Hikvision cameras are trickier though, as Control4 doesn't have native support for most third-party camera motion events.",{"id":13,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":1716,"vote_count":547,"is_accepted":12,"body":1717},"2021-09-02T14:47:37.649718","I've done quite a few of these integrations professionally, so let me give you the real picture. The 2GIG driver from Cinegration is solid and runs about $150 for the license. It exposes arm\u002Fdisarm states, zone status, and alarm events to Control4 programming. Your dealer's quote of $2,500 seems high unless they're including significant programming time.\n\nFor Hikvision, you have a couple options. The cleanest is to use a driver that can receive HTTP callbacks from the cameras when motion is detected. Hikvision cameras can be configured to send HTTP notifications, and there are generic webhook receiver drivers for Control4. Alternatively, some integrators use an intermediary like Home Assistant or Node-RED to bridge the gap, though that adds complexity.\n\nOne thing to consider - if your dealer isn't confident in this work, you might want to find a dealer who specializes in security integrations. Not all Control4 dealers have the same skill set.",{"id":238,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"created_at":1719,"vote_count":201,"is_accepted":25,"body":1720},"2021-09-06T14:47:37.649718","I ran into the same wall with Control4 being so closed off. Ended up running Home Assistant alongside it and using the Control4 integration to pass commands. Works but it's definitely a workaround.",{"id":242,"author":308,"author_avatar":309,"created_at":1722,"vote_count":188,"is_accepted":25,"body":1723},"2021-09-16T14:47:37.649718","Just a heads up - if you go the Home Assistant route, make sure your dealer is okay with it. Some dealers won't support systems that have third-party integrations they didn't install. Had a client get burned by this when they needed warranty work.",{"id":229,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":1725,"vote_count":346,"is_accepted":25,"body":1726},"2021-09-21T14:47:37.649718","Thanks everyone for the responses so far! @HighEndIntegrator, that's exactly the kind of detailed info I was looking for. I'll ask my dealer specifically about the Cinegration driver. The HTTP callback approach for Hikvision sounds promising - do you know which webhook receiver driver works best for this?",{"id":254,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":1728,"vote_count":754,"is_accepted":25,"body":1729},"2021-10-11T14:47:37.649718","Look for the Generic HTTP driver or the Chowmain webhook driver. Both can receive incoming HTTP posts and trigger Control4 events. You'll need someone comfortable with the Hikvision API to set up the notification URLs correctly.",{"id":217,"author":261,"author_avatar":262,"created_at":1731,"vote_count":511,"is_accepted":25,"body":1732},"2021-10-15T14:47:37.649718","Honestly, for $2,500 you could almost replace the 2GIG with a Control4 panel and have native integration. The Control4 security stuff has gotten much better in recent versions. Just something to consider if you want a cleaner long-term solution without driver dependencies.",{"id":11,"author":255,"author_avatar":256,"created_at":1734,"vote_count":177,"is_accepted":25,"body":1735},"2021-10-26T14:47:37.649718","I'd push back on replacing the 2GIG unless there's something wrong with it. The third-party drivers work fine and you avoid the cost and hassle of rewiring sensors. Plus 2GIG has better cellular backup options IMO.",{"id":441,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":1737,"vote_count":238,"is_accepted":25,"body":1738},"2021-10-29T14:47:37.649718","Good points on both sides regarding replacing vs integrating. I think I'll try the integration route first since the 2GIG is only 2 years old. Going to reach out to another dealer who has more security integration experience. Really appreciate all the help here!",{"id":297,"author":353,"author_avatar":354,"created_at":1708,"vote_count":350,"is_accepted":25,"body":356},{"id":1741,"title":1742,"tags":1743,"view_count":1747,"vote_count":134,"answer_count":11,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":242,"created_at":1748,"last_activity_at":1749,"thumbnail_url":1750,"is_technical":12,"has_solution_keywords":12,"related_thread_id":17,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"body":1751,"replies":1752},"15","Troubleshooting Pico remote pairing",[1744,973,1745,491,1746,115],"pico-remote","pairing-issues","factory-reset",29132,"2021-07-31T14:41:37.605254","2021-10-14T15:41:37.605254","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002F353d59a9f18aecf9f7df933fb294b1fe\u002F1024\u002F768","Hey everyone, I'm having a frustrating issue with pairing a new Pico remote to my RA2 Select system. I've got about 15 devices already working perfectly, but this new 5-button Pico just won't cooperate.\n\nHere's what I've tried so far:\n1. Put the main repeater into programming mode (LED blinking)\n2. Press and hold the top and bottom buttons on the Pico for 3 seconds\n3. The remote LED blinks but then nothing happens\n\nI've repeated this process about 10 times now. The remote is brand new out of the box, and I've even tried replacing the battery just in case. My other Pico remotes paired without any issues when I first set up the system last year.\n\nOne thing I noticed - when I open the Lutron app during the pairing attempt, it doesn't show any new device trying to connect. It's like the system isn't even seeing the remote at all.\n\nIs there something I'm missing here? Could the remote be defective? I'm also wondering if there's a limit to how many Pico remotes you can have on a single RA2 Select system. Any help would be greatly appreciated!",[1753,1756,1759,1762,1765,1768,1771,1774],{"id":123,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":1754,"vote_count":229,"is_accepted":25,"body":1755},"2021-08-14T14:41:37.605254","Quick question - are you holding the buttons until you see the LED on the Pico flash rapidly? You need to hold them for about 6 seconds, not 3. The first flash at 3 seconds just confirms the button press, but the actual pairing mode kicks in around 6 seconds.",{"id":13,"author":239,"author_avatar":240,"created_at":1757,"vote_count":258,"is_accepted":25,"body":1758},"2021-08-15T14:41:37.605254","Also make sure you're within range of the main repeater when pairing. I had a similar issue and it turned out I was too far away. Try standing within 10 feet of the repeater during the pairing process.",{"id":238,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"created_at":1760,"vote_count":429,"is_accepted":25,"body":1761},"2021-09-02T14:41:37.605254","Thanks for the quick responses! I tried holding for longer and standing right next to the repeater - still no luck unfortunately.",{"id":242,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":1763,"vote_count":1426,"is_accepted":12,"body":1764},"2021-09-14T14:41:37.605254","This is a classic symptom of the Pico being pre-associated with a different system. Sometimes remotes get paired during factory testing or at the distributor. Here's what you need to do:\n\n1. Remove the battery from the Pico\n2. Press and hold any button for 10 seconds (this drains residual power)\n3. Wait 30 seconds\n4. Reinsert the battery\n5. Within 10 seconds of inserting the battery, press and hold the top and bottom buttons together for 6+ seconds\n\nThis performs a factory reset on the Pico. After that, immediately try the pairing process again with your repeater in programming mode. This has fixed the issue for me on multiple occasions with 'new' remotes that wouldn't pair.",{"id":229,"author":245,"author_avatar":246,"created_at":1766,"vote_count":350,"is_accepted":25,"body":1767},"2021-10-02T14:41:37.605254","That did it! The factory reset process worked perfectly. Paired on the first try after that. Thank you so much!",{"id":254,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":1769,"vote_count":297,"is_accepted":25,"body":1770},"2021-10-08T14:41:37.605254","Good to know about that reset procedure. I'm saving this thread for future reference. Had no idea Picos could come pre-paired from the factory.",{"id":217,"author":300,"author_avatar":301,"created_at":1772,"vote_count":386,"is_accepted":25,"body":1773},"2021-10-14T14:41:37.605254","To answer your other question - RA2 Select supports up to 100 devices total, including Picos. So with 15 devices you're nowhere near the limit. Glad you got it working!",{"id":11,"author":353,"author_avatar":354,"created_at":1749,"vote_count":1775,"is_accepted":25,"body":356},39,{"id":1777,"title":1778,"tags":1779,"view_count":1784,"vote_count":730,"answer_count":217,"has_accepted_answer":12,"accepted_reply_id":123,"created_at":1785,"last_activity_at":1786,"thumbnail_url":1787,"is_technical":25,"has_solution_keywords":25,"related_thread_id":17,"author":282,"author_avatar":283,"body":1788,"replies":1789},"23","High-end fabric choices for Palladiom shades",[269,1780,534,1781,1782,1783],"shade-fabrics","solar-shades","high-end-installation","window-treatments",40695,"2021-07-20T14:46:10.195777","2021-10-14T14:46:10.195777","https:\u002F\u002Fpicsum.photos\u002Fseed\u002F3060e9a28142f0c8d973ac4f9b56614c\u002F1024\u002F768","I'm in the process of specifying Palladiom shades for our new build and I'm completely overwhelmed by the fabric choices. We have floor-to-ceiling windows in our great room (south-facing, about 12 feet tall) and I want something that looks absolutely stunning while also providing good light control and UV protection.\n\nMy integrator showed me the Lutron fabric book and there are literally hundreds of options. I'm torn between going with a sheer that maintains the view but filters light, versus a more opaque option for better blackout capability. We're also considering the dual-shade option but I'm worried about the stack height at the top.\n\nFor those of you who have installed Palladiom in high-end applications, what fabrics have you found work best? I'm particularly interested in:\n\n1. Which fabric lines hold up best over time without fading or sagging?\n2. Are the Lutron-branded fabrics significantly better than the third-party options they offer?\n3. For south-facing windows, is it worth going with a solar screen material versus a traditional shade fabric?\n\nBudget isn't the primary concern here - I want to get this right the first time since these windows are the focal point of the entire home. Any recommendations from real-world installations would be greatly appreciated.",[1790,1793,1796,1799,1802,1805,1808],{"id":123,"author":232,"author_avatar":233,"created_at":1791,"vote_count":547,"is_accepted":12,"body":1792},"2021-07-23T14:46:10.195777","For south-facing floor-to-ceiling applications, I almost always spec the Mermet E Screen series. The 3% openness factor gives you excellent glare control while maintaining views, and the fiberglass core means zero stretch or sag over time. We've had installations running 8+ years with no degradation. The Lutron-branded Sheer Elegance line is beautiful but honestly performs about the same as premium third-party options - you're mostly paying for the name. For your situation, I'd seriously consider the dual-shade configuration with a solar screen on the exterior position and a blackout fabric behind it. Yes, the stack is bigger, but with 12-foot windows you have the headroom to accommodate it, and the flexibility is worth it.",{"id":13,"author":226,"author_avatar":227,"created_at":1794,"vote_count":177,"is_accepted":25,"body":1795},"2021-07-27T14:46:10.195777","Dual shades are 100% the way to go for that application. Don't stress about the stack height - on 12 foot windows it's barely noticeable. We did the same thing in our living room and zero regrets.",{"id":238,"author":300,"author_avatar":301,"created_at":1797,"vote_count":494,"is_accepted":25,"body":1798},"2021-08-02T14:46:10.195777","I'll add that the Phifer Sheerweave 4000 series has been bulletproof in my experience. Great UV blocking and the colors stay true even in direct sun exposure.",{"id":242,"author":249,"author_avatar":250,"created_at":1800,"vote_count":375,"is_accepted":25,"body":1801},"2021-08-08T14:46:10.195777","Quick question - are you doing Palladiom with the native Lutron integration or running through a third-party controller? The fabric choice matters less than making sure your automation scenes are dialed in properly for sun tracking. We have similar windows and programmed our shades to automatically adjust based on time of day and sun angle. Makes a huge difference in managing heat gain regardless of which fabric you choose.",{"id":229,"author":282,"author_avatar":283,"created_at":1803,"vote_count":229,"is_accepted":25,"body":1804},"2021-08-14T14:46:10.195777","Running through Homeworks QSX with native integration. Good point about the automation - my integrator mentioned setting up astronomical clock scenes. I'm definitely leaning toward the dual shade option now based on this feedback.",{"id":254,"author":261,"author_avatar":262,"created_at":1806,"vote_count":154,"is_accepted":25,"body":1807},"2021-10-07T14:46:10.195777","One thing nobody mentioned yet - get physical samples and hang them in the actual space for at least a week before committing. Fabrics look completely different under showroom lighting versus natural light in your specific orientation. I've seen clients love a fabric in the showroom and hate it once installed. Your Lutron dealer should be able to provide large samples. Also, the metallic-backed fabrics offer superior heat rejection but can look a bit industrial from outside - something to consider if exterior aesthetics matter to you.",{"id":217,"author":221,"author_avatar":222,"created_at":1786,"vote_count":329,"is_accepted":25,"body":1809},"We went with Coulisse fabrics for our Palladiom install and couldn't be happier. Premium quality without the Lutron markup.",1784825298483]