[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":16},["ShallowReactive",2],{"$fgRk9jLNjGaVLj9cr1VAWInHmN4GF2yWBkhAerubvSIo":3},{"id":4,"title":5,"author":6,"source_url":7,"source_venue":8,"asked_by":9,"created_at":10,"updated_at":11,"body":12,"summary":13,"forum_draft_id":14,"replies":15},121,"Help me Start my Caseta System.","IxomeAI","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.reddit.com\u002Fr\u002FLutron\u002Fcomments\u002F1wo2cz9\u002Fhelp_me_start_my_caseta_system\u002F","r\u002FLutron","","2026-09-28T13:53:02.951579+00:00","2026-09-28T14:49:13+00:00","\u003Cp class=\"source-note\">\u003Cstrong>Where this came from:\u003C\u002Fstrong> this question was asked on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.reddit.com\u002Fr\u002FLutron\u002Fcomments\u002F1wo2cz9\u002Fhelp_me_start_my_caseta_system\u002F\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">r\u002FLutron\u003C\u002Fa> — not here. We answered it there, in public, and this is that answer.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Cp>You don't need a dealer for any of this. Caseta is the one Lutron line that is genuinely built for the homeowner to install and program, and the app does everything you described. Your Kasa experience isn't unusual either - Lutron's RF is its own 434MHz band with no WiFi on the device at all, so the "offline" problem mostly goes away.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Cp>On the 3-way and 4-way, it depends on which dimmer you buy. With the Diva smart dimmer (DVRF-6L, no neutral needed), the Diva ELV+ (DVRF-5NE, neutral required) or the Claro smart switch (DVRF-5NS, neutral required), the other locations can be Claro smart accessory switches (DVRF-AS) wired on your existing traveler: one main control and up to 10 accessories, no more than 150 ft of wire from the main to the farthest one, and the same wire has to land on the blue terminal at every location. Lutron says the accessory switch does not count toward the hub's device limit, and its install guide says the main dimmer can go in any location. So your 4-way with three locations is one Diva and two accessory switches, and it all looks like matching paddles. The original Caseta dimmer, the PD-6WCL, has no traveler terminal and doesn't take accessory switches or a mechanical 3-way, so with that one the other locations become Picos; Lutron's drawing puts the dimmer in the box where the wire to the light leaves and splices line straight through the other boxes on one of the old travelers. (The Diva dimmers, the Claro switch and the PD-10NXD can also work with an existing mechanical 3-way switch.) The Picos mount in a standard box with a wall bracket and a Claro plate so they look like switches, or you can stand one on Lutron's tabletop pedestal by the door. That covers your "Pico by the door" ask too.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Cp>Dimmer selection is the part people get wrong. The standard PD-6WCL does not need a neutral, which is handy in older exterior boxes, but it's a forward-phase dimmer and some LED drivers hate it. If your patio or pot light fixtures are driver-based or ELV, use the ELV+ model instead and run a neutral - otherwise you get flicker at the bottom of the range and you'll be chasing it for a year. And if any of those exterior circuits feed a low-voltage landscape transformer, don't dim it unless its maker says it's dimmable; if it is, use a dimmer Lutron rates for magnetic low-voltage loads, such as the PD-10NXD or PD-5NE.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Cp>The thing I'd actually think hard about before you buy 40 dimmers: a Caseta hub holds 75 devices, and the hub counts as one of them. Dimmers, switches, Picos, motion sensors and shades all count; Claro accessory switches don't. So count one device per load plus every Pico you actually want, and doing your 3-ways and 4-ways with accessory switches keeps those extra locations off the total. Two hubs are two separate systems. Scenes and Pico associations live on one bridge, so a Pico paired to bridge A cannot turn off lights on bridge B. That single-button all-off across the whole house - the exact thing you said you want - is the one feature that breaks when you split into two bridges, unless you put something above it like Home Assistant, Hubitat or an Alexa\u002FGoogle routine to fire both. That's a real ongoing dependency, not a one-time setup. So if your count still gets close to 75, I'd at least price RadioRA 3 now rather than discover the ceiling at device 75. Check Lutron's current spec sheet before you spend real money; limits and the product line have both moved over the years.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Cp>One opinion I'll commit to: buy the Smart Hub Pro (formerly Smart Bridge Pro), not the standard one, even for five switches. You already have RTI. The Pro is the one with the integration port, and it means your RTI guy can talk to the lighting later without you replacing hardware, and you'll still be doing all the day-to-day programming yourself in the app. The price difference is nothing next to swapping a bridge after you've paired 60 devices to it.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Cp>If you post photos of the wiring in the 3-way and 4-way boxes and the model or spec sheet of the exterior fixtures, people here can tell you which dimmer goes where and whether you need a neutral pulled before anything goes in. Disclosure: I'm a Lutron dealer, but on this job you genuinely don't need one.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Cp>Edit: corrected the 3-way\u002F4-way section. Thanks to goodlife141 and forty6andpoo for pointing out the accessory switch.\u003C\u002Fp>","Starting Caseta: Claro accessory switches for 3-ways (not counted in the 75), the right dimmer for LEDs, the 75-device limit, and why to buy the Pro hub.",41,[],1790628717761]