[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":16},["ShallowReactive",2],{"$f619_7T-8jjHTe9u49bxvvAyUSsoNuMCwXNL3hVqkjj0":3},{"id":4,"title":5,"author":6,"source_url":7,"source_venue":8,"asked_by":9,"created_at":10,"updated_at":11,"body":12,"forum_draft_id":13,"replies":14,"summary":15},115,"Homeworks Retrofit Questions","IxomeAI","https:\u002F\u002Fold.reddit.com\u002Fr\u002FLutron\u002Fcomments\u002F1w0gxpy\u002Fhomeworks_retrofit_questions\u002F","r\u002FLutron","","2026-08-28T13:56:23.432397+00:00","2026-08-29T22:32:51+00:00","\u003Cp class=\"source-note\">\u003Cstrong>Where this came from:\u003C\u002Fstrong> this question was asked on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fold.reddit.com\u002Fr\u002FLutron\u002Fcomments\u002F1w0gxpy\u002Fhomeworks_retrofit_questions\u002F\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">r\u002FLutron\u003C\u002Fa> — not here. We answered it there, in public, and this is that answer.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Cp>All three of those are programming, not hardware, and none of them should need a truck roll if your integrator has remote access to the processor.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Cp>On the keypads: every button on a Sunnata keypad has its own LED logic setting in Designer. What you're describing is the button behaving as a scene button, so the LED holds on because that scene is the last one activated in the area. For an Off button you want it changed to either follow the load status of that area, so it's only lit when everything it controls is genuinely off, or set to never light at all. I'd pick never light. An Off button that glows is telling you something you can already see by looking at the room, and it's one more light source in a dark hallway. It's a per-button change and a transfer, maybe ten minutes of his time. I'd want to confirm the exact option names against the Designer build he's on before you quote me to him, but the capability is there.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Cp>LED brightness is adjustable, yes. My understanding on Sunnata is that you get separate day and night levels with a timeclock event flipping between them rather than one fixed number, and there's a floor to how dim they'll go short of turning them off entirely. Before you set expectations with your integrator, ask him what range he can actually give you on your firmware, because I'd be guessing at the specific values from here.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Cp>NLO is a glare and daylight tool, and it's driven by sun position and the geometry you gave each facade, not by a clock. So for the living room, fine, that's what it's for. For bedrooms on a flat 7am to 7pm, I wouldn't use NLO at all. That's two timeclock events, done, and it will behave the same every day of the year, which is what people actually want in a bedroom. Mixing the two in one house is normal. Whether you can put separate time windows on separate NLO groups in the current Designer release I'd have to look at, but the fallback that always works is timeclock events that enable and disable NLO per area.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Cp>One thing worth checking while he's in there: make sure the processor's location and time zone are set correctly, or your sunrise and sunset events will be off. And I'd put a 15 to 20 minute offset on sunrise for shades. Civil sunrise and usable light are not the same moment, and shades opening on the dot in December feels early and wrong.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Cp>I'm a Lutron dealer, have been since 1999, and remote HomeWorks programming is what I do for a living. If your integrator tells you any of the three isn't possible, tell me your processor model and the Designer version he's running and I'll tell you whether that's a real limitation or just a preference. No charge, I'm not trying to take the job off him.\u003C\u002Fp>",22,[],"Sunnata keypad LEDs staying lit, and two other HomeWorks retrofit annoyances, are programming in Designer — not hardware, and not a truck roll.",1789078240572]